Re-install the outer pushrod, vacuum it down as far as you can (20"+) and then you need to push the inner pushrod, which should then be doable. Just vacuum alone will not activate it do to the inner valve. Outer pushrod may make a vacuum seal as well.
Can you recess the booster into the firewall?
Move the whole pedal assembly back and joggle the pedal arm.
How much clearance does the wheel have inside the fender liner? Could you make part of the wheel well removable so that the booster is serviceable?
Update: the vacuum trick worked! I had to shove a rubber glove into the outlet side to plug the vacuum leak, but I was able to push on the plunger from inside the car with ease and work it upwards to freedom!
Yay! I finally had a good idea!
Glad it worked. Now get a new one and install it!
I'm going to hit the yard this weekend to look for a smaller diameter. I think it still hits the valve cover. Rockauto research tells me one from a Sentra or Altima is 2" less diameter, and I'm hoping my master just bolts on bc Nissan. It would be worth the upgrade cost in the Challenge budget.
Keep it up! Youre inspiring me to get back at the miata.
Yeah let's see more V6 Miata!
Today I found out how Amazon ships a pre-bent roll bar hoop.
$43 shipped. It's for a Pinto/Mustang II and seems to fit well with extra length to spare. You can find the measurements on Summit Racing using the same part number, but get it cheaper on Amazon. Got the idea from Patrick's gasser build.
Then I washed this car for the first time ever and started the long process of sanding and bodywork. Still no brake solution worked out yet.
Question:
Did you re-use the fuel cap from the donor? Does it trip the CEL
I ask because I am planning a swap of similar scope, and would love to keep the computer as intact as possible, and avoid CELs, etc. I am thinking of how finicky new cars are with the fuel cap coming up as a trouble code, etc.
In reply to wheelsmithy :
Surprisingly, I don't think I'm getting an EVAP code. CEL is always tripped, due to downstream O2 sensors and cruise control not existing. I have the EVAP vacuum lines plugged, so there's no vacuum leaks, but yeah you'd think there would be a code for the charcoal canister and related components being gone.
Something about Miatas and answers? While perusing the junkyard for a replacement G35 booster, I found a non-ABS NA Miata with almost nothing left, except its brake system. The booster is single-diaphragm and 2" smaller in diameter, so it should be a good boost but not too boosty.
Cleaned up the booster with a fresh coat of paint, thenI flipped the proportioning valve bracket upside down to move the valve over to the right. A little trimming and bending made it perfect. My hope is that the Miata prop valve does a good enough job that I can remove the manual bias valve if I need an extra $20 in the budget later. But for now they're both in, because burnouts.
It needs to go here. But the nose of the MC hits the strut tower, no surprise there.
Here's the upper control arm mount and spring perch I surgically avoided.
Much hammering was had. Much more cutting and grinding after this shot too.
Getting close
Why does everything I do to this car devolve into CAD fab?
Burned in good to add the stiffness back.
Finally found another source for my coveted Rustoleum Harbor Blue spray paint. I can't find this stuff anywhere, but it's almost a perfect match to the Datsun interior.
I had to run a vacuum line from the passenger side to the booster, so I formed it out of some leftover fuel line.
I won't know how it works until tomorrow, when my power bleeder adapter arrives. But mashing the pedal doesn't reveal any leaks, and the running-engine vacuum test proves the booster is good. This has been a 20 hour upgrade. My thought is easier to drive = faster to drive. At previous autocrosses, braking was an all-or-nothing affair due to the massive pedal effort involved.
Similar boat with my datsun. I really appreciate power brakes and I think you made the right call.
I asked wife if she wanted to go for a ride since she's never actually been in this car. "Aren't you testing the brakes out?" "Yeah but it always had bad brakes" "...mmmm maybe next time"
This. Was. 1000% definitely worth the effort! Pedal feels fantastic and I feel way more confident ripping around the hood. I did a big smokey uphill burnout past the house in celebration. Wife still unamused.
I am amused!
Good work!
What is the size of the master?
Thanks!
Love it when a plan comes together.
maschinenbau said:
how do we feel about bracing between the shock tower and the firewall?
I realize there's probably not a lot of reason for the master to move around, nor for the shock tower. but there seems to be some space to pull off something similar to what's in many BMW's? but, that's where my brain goes when seeing pictures like this.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
This Miata master is 7/8" compared to the G35 which is 1".
Sleepyhead,
A strut tower brace that also connects into the firewall wouldn't be a bad idea considering how much structural fabrication was done up front.
I bet you the strut tower to core support bars from a rendezvous/aztek/other U platform gm and possibly w bodies would be perfect.
brake guy gives thumbs up.
Nice dude, very grassroots
In reply to maschinenbau :
I have a 350z strut tower brace that would be a good starting point, I also have a carbon fiber VQ engine cover. Both are collecting dust in my garage, they're yours for the price of shipping.
Patrick said:I bet you the strut tower to core support bars from an aztek platform gm and possibly w bodies would be perfect.
that would be so motherberkleying beautiful
In reply to maschinenbau :
Then I washed this car for the first time ever and started the long process of sanding and bodywork. Still no brake solution worked out yet.
So, how far down the rabbit hole are you going on the body and paint? That job alone can eat a Challenge budget and a few hundred hours. But I do like to watch others suffer, so following right along.
Pete
In reply to NOHOME :
Funny you should ask, I'm actually following advice you gave a few months ago in this thread with some modifications:
The whole paint job, including various rattle cans I've been using under the hood, interior, and for various parts, SHOULD come out to about $250, which I have been carefully reserving in the budget all year.
But yeah, I'm in for some suffering. Also I've never painted with a spray gun before, so that'll be fun to learn.
In reply to maschinenbau :
Might have mentioned it, but fill the gun with water and get the feel for adjusting the spray pattern and what the various controls do. Also a good way to go around the car and get a feel for what it will feel like to reach all the awkward places while dragging a hose around and trying to keep the hose and yourself off the car.
The best way to set your gun pressure is to do it at the source. Use a pressure gauge at the gun, open the air flow control at the gun to wide open. Hold the trigger wide open while watching the pressure at the gun, but do any adjustments at the source regulator near the compressor. I use like 23 psi for my gun. Then remove the pressure gauge from the gun cause it is a pain to drag around and you wont need it once the source is set.
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