In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
My battery box is exactly 1 lb.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
My battery box is exactly 1 lb.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Better luck next time my friend.
Today I finished up the cowl covers, but forgot to take pics. Just need to sand down the sharps and drill a few holes to allow for zip tie ing of the roll bar padding.
333 hours.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Hmm now I need to see if I can file away some more metal. But wait ... mine includes a hold down and it's nuts. Where is yours?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
I think I'm done comparing sizes here. We now all know yours is bigger.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
So they weigh 3 oz eh?
Yeah, I need to be on here more often. This is great!
Earlier this year I had a door switch issue on our microwave, and the part only came as a package of 2.
Anyway, today I made a quick bracket to use the other microwave door switch as a brake light switch! Brake light is not exactly a challenge necessity (taillight is), but I think they are always good to have. This is a normally closed switch, so when pedal pushes away, the contacts close. When the pedal returns, the button is pushed and the switch is open. Perfect!
334 hours.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
All I can see is we have the same scale
Couple hours Friday night to replace the throttle bodies and TPS with the used eBay $35 unit. No more fuel injection light, and no more tip in stumble. Engine rips now.
Also, I spent a couple hours between Sunday and this morning removing old tires and separating wheel halves. By combining halves from these wheels and the 2 extra wheels I bought I will be able to assemble 4 10x8 inch wheels! I may also be able to reassemble the small halves to make "drag skinnies" for the front, but they would still be very limited in tire selection.
338 hours.
You're my main concern for competition in the autox portion of the Challege :) I'm watching closely!
10x5 skinnies! There has got to be smooth, narrow ATV tire that will work...
In reply to gumby (Forum Supporter) :
Golf cart tires are DOT rated.
MiniMania has some 10s for restoring early Minis
If they are split rims, why are you bothering with the tire changer? Just using the bead breaker?
Apexcarver said:If they are split rims, why are you bothering with the tire changer? Just using the bead breaker?
I was just using the bead breaker, but I did take the tires off with spoons. The rims were siliconed together like crazy and I wouldn't have been able to separate them with a tire on.
Also, I think I will need to silicone before putting tire back on, so I'll need to spoon them back on too. But they are relatively easy to do so I'm not worried.
Do you have a secret method? If so I'm all ears.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to gumby (Forum Supporter) :
Golf cart tires are DOT rated.
But are they sticky enough? I want to see this thing dominate the autocross. No offense Andy.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
When we had two or three piece wheels on FSAE cars, we used to just split the wheels and reassemble into the new tires. It may or may not have been easier than installing the tire the normal way, but required no special tools.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
When we had two or three piece wheels on FSAE cars, we used to just split the wheels and reassemble into the new tires. It may or may not have been easier than installing the tire the normal way, but required no special tools.
Did you silicone or anything on the two pieces to make sure they held air? (i mean the two inner faces where the two halves actually touch).
Stampie - I have 4 autox tires, fresh takeoffs from Berget tire (GRM advertiser), 19.5x8x10s in Hoosier r25b compound. It was $260.70 for all 4 shipped to my front door. I was thinking of finding something light and round and safe to put on the fronts for the drags, since I will have 2 10x5 wheels extra with no tires at this point. But that isn't a priority right now, as I could probably just fill the fronts to max psi for the drags and get 90% of the effect.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Yep, iirc they had o-rings but we put some red RTV in there for good measure.
This morning i worked on finishing up the cooling system hoses.
Made sure this aluminum mount is not sharp at all, and added extra padding. This is an aluminum tube underneath, but I still don't want chafing.
Also, here's a slightly better look at the wheel plan:
8, 7, 6 becomes
8, 8, 5.
I do need to spend some time cleaning all these wheels up. I think I've got the right wizz wheels for the job.
339 hours.
Spent some time last night with kids cleaning the wheels. Also I think I've decided to get new hardware, instead of reusing what was on the wheels.
Cheap insurance.
342 hours.
Method on mine was assembling rim onto the tire with wet silicone bead. DO NOT INFLATE TIRE TO SEAT BEAD FOR AT LEAST 24 hours, in fact, dont even install the valve cores. I also used some spray lube to help the beads seat after the silicone dried.
Mine assemble Wheel center, spacer ring*, inner half, outer half
So I set up a 4x4 or other post type thing to support the center/ring, and put on the inner half. Apply bead of silicone (good healthy bead). set tire on, then outer half of rim using the hardware to draw it in. I think I used two longer bolts to do initial draw in that were later replaced with standard ones after the other standards were installed. Wipe up any squeezed out excess before it dries.
*to use kaiser and adjust backspace, had them made by local machine shop, wouldnt be needed if I had new centers made
The wheel assembly recommended to me was to assemble the two halves dry, then run a generous bead around the outside of the seam, and finish with a finger (similar to caulking a tub). After it's dry, add the tire like normal.
Since removing these tires wasn't difficult with spoons, I think I'm going to try this method. The new tires should be slightly more malleable anyway. Silicone spray is a good idea to help seat beads regardless - I know that some lubricant is always recommended.
I also spent about an hour getting my new Woolich Racing software hooked up and running. It's basically HP tuners for motorcycles. Everything is running beautifully - and now I'll be able to enable the sweet secret features of the Honda ECU. One is the quick shifter maps, you can actually setup TPS vs engine RPM maps for how long the spark is cut for each different shift (1-2 can have a different map than 2-3). But the really cool one is launch control. Once enabled, if you select first gear and pull in the clutch, you can floor it and the engine will hold the preset launch RPM. You can then also configure a "max ramp rate" that would restrict the engine from full power until (presumably) you are moving out and the tires have grip. Of course I can also modify spark and fuel tables, but I don't plan to do much of that right away, as I'm sure Honda did a pretty solid job and I don't plan to change fuel or anything yet.
343 hours.
I wish I was going down to see this thing in person.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Please do not use silicone lubricant for tire beading. It remains slippery and, especially on easy to mount ones, allows the tire to torque slip. Use tire mounting lube "Ruglide" or maybe spelled "Ruglyde". Dries up to not slippery.
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