dave215 said:Get .ready to breakout the hats and horns for a celebration .The leakdown test is really good news .With your coolant cocktail leaks may be a thing of the past .
I have to admit, I am feeling hopeful and at lunch time I did google "dyno near me"
I think its an engine again
I thought I would get to the alternator today but I kind of for got about needing to mount the TBs and that took a while to clean them up and then because I use sealant, clean the sealant up. Its not a real flow critical section of the port and the sealant will mostly spread out and lay flat once it fires up.....but I got it pretty clean
and then there is the OCD effect.....where I waste time doing stuff like timing gaskets flash to the metal and such
And where I modified stuff so gaskets no longer fit right
I was messing with the alternator a little tonight....and I'm trying to decide if I care enough to proceed. I'm still scared about the pulley diameter and 6 rib v 4. I'm also questioning whether I've ever actually add AC vs taking action to generally lighten the car. I do like the idea of a 2800lb car. Right now I'm 3/4 thinking I'll skip the alternator upgrade for now and just pay up for a bolt-in version if I change my mind in the future but I'm going to drink on the decision a bit tonight.
it will be snowing soon .why introduce another variable ?
In reply to dave215 :
That is exactly what I was asking myself as I looked at the parts.....
The shaft arrived so it looks like I have big plans for the weekend. I ordered oil and blue devil sealer.
Yesterday I dropped the car down and rolled it out to flush out whatever coolant was still in it....and I'm still getting the k-seal fibers out, all the whit bits, what a mess that stuff made.
It think its ready to set back in....fingers (and toes) crossed I did everything right
Looking around the shop I'm realizing there are a few items I could have had ready and don't like I wanted to shorten the motor mount spaces a little to help the deck lid fit and the axles need the new CV boots installed...but the plan is to have the engine at least sitting in the car tomorrow.
Those K seal fibers get everywhere, and when they say they don't plug coolant passages, they's lyin'. I had a turbo coolant tube banjo bolt that was plugged completely solid. And the heat output from the HVAC never was the same.
Granted I did run like four or five bottles through...
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
That stuff has definitely moved on the "do not use list". I flushed the heck out of the system in both directions so hopefully got most of it. The engine itself was pretty free of it other than some stuck in the t'stat spring.
The blue devil stuff though worked great. I'm a little nervous this go as the instructions have changed so I'm pretty sure they dropped the original formula which they were very clear was not coolant compatible and now put the pour-n-go formula on all the bottles. They still say flush it and remover the t-stat but no longer require a post seal flush and I'm remembering much sorter run time than the 50 minutes it now says. Hopefully its as good as the last stuff worked wonders.
Open wide and say "ahh" please
I was remembering 1/16" off the motor mounts so that's what I did, just 1/16" of an inch before putting the engine in.
I bought 12 point flanged nuts for the headers, which made the install SOOO much easier as it was a 10mm wrench not a 13mm. The front set needs to go on before the engine is fully down...which led me installing one of the headers over the lifting strap. OK, jack it up, loosen the header, pull the strap, retighten, a 30 plus minute delay but the new nuts saved way more than that and now time to drop it down.....and the right side is sitting 1/4 may in the air....floating really. I screwed around for about 2 hours trying to figure out how the f.. a 700lb engine floats off the mounts and it was about 8 things I guess the last of which was a nut I lost fixing number 6 or 7 was found under a mount, it turned out that 1/16 of an inch I took off the mounts mattered. .... it was that kind or night.
Right now its sitting properly on the mounts but not bolted. The flywheel still clears the frame by a full 1/4". So the 1/16 I was remembering is what I thought needed to come off the bottom of the deck lid and 3/16 needed to come off the mounts. In the morning, after a couple honey-dos I will cut another 0.150" off the mount and get it bolted in place. I'm hoping to be ready to run Sunday.
I like to think I'm smart enough to have made a different choice if I'd known the effort it would take to lower the engine 3/16"....I'm probably not but I like to think I am. It's finally bolted, there is just shy of 1/8" clearance under the flywheel cover and I will no doubt enjoy the amazing handling improvements now that the engine is sitting so much lower 
For sure I'll enjoy being able to close the deck lid. 
It's just going slow this time. I bought new CV boots but never installed them and the axles had to go in so an hour e that to change the boots. The puke is getting small though...4 hours left?
And as a bonus the float bench will be accessible again. Its been some time since its run but I agreed to do a couple projects...look at a M44 bmw head for a work buddy and see what can be done to a set of Michelotto Gp4 308 heads I'm kind off looking forward to seeing. Its going to be a busy fall/winter.
I also decide to part with the dyno I was so exited to have as its pretty clear I'm never actually going ot set it up. Here's a link for anyone interested Dyno Listing and bid knowing all proceeds will go to support a deserving 308 
In reply to mke :
Slow going is still going. 🤘🏻
I worked a solid 8 hours on what I thought was 4 hours of tasks and its at least on the ground
but I still need to install the coils and the front WBO2 sensor then pull the left rear wheel and tie up wires. There was a bit of a stupid tax when I couldn't find a 3" long piece of hose and had to buy a $40 fits I don't know what radiator hose because they no longer stock generic stuff plus the time to go get it. Then again when I filled and primed the oil system but for whatever reason the 10 quarts I ordered didn't fill the 14qt system so back to the store....but it has good oil pressure cranking and its returning to the tank properly and nothing is on the floor (yet). And yes I filled the trans before I even put the drain plug in the engine.
This is a little funny, I completely forgot I changed the clutch master so when I bled it and the felt the force needed I thought I messed something up with the clutch. Oh wait, I switch from a .70 to ,75 master because it was so soft and I thought I'd rather have a faster pedal and it turns out a 15% force change is very noticeable. Its still a pretty light clutch so no worries but now I'm really excited to try to brakes that should now be about 25% less force with the new masters and it will be less force yet once I actually get the higher friction pads I picked out but were backordered.
I don't like to start fresh engines in the dark so tomorrow after work I'll finish up then Tuesday first thing after work I should be ready to try it. That's the plan anyway
Nice work! I'm still super excited to be following along. Fingers crossed for the fire up; I'm sure all will go well.
I think its ready to make noise
Not my best work on the wires but they are well away from the wheel so that will do for now.
Luckily I decided to clean the plug wires as I found an issue with one. It looks like it got sliced and then burned through.
And more luck I had leftover bits that I could find to make a replacement
I think I should whine about oil a little. Sunday I ran to the auto parts store to buy some oil. I am running 20w50 for break-in which to me is a very normal thing I've used it in various car and motorcycles for 40+ years. At the parts store I very nearly gave up as 0w16 has replaced it on the shelves but just as I was about to leave I saw they had 6 bottles of 20w50 castrol classic high zinc in a clip on rack next to the main oil display like a little freak side show. 0w16, what has the world come to?...next thing you know they'll be trying to sell us electric cars 
The OEM specified oil for this engine is 10w50. I don't recall ever seeing that in a store, but it is available to order so after break-in I may hunt some up.
Please set up video capture for startup. I love the sounds this thing makes.
That engine looks SO good, especially in its proper place.
+1 for a startup video.
Oh my goodness baby needs a bath
yes please startup mandatory.......Sits down.. grabs popcorn ..and cold beer ....+..Mandatory Enzo glasses too....
When I laughed at the extension cord pop, I was laughing WITH you .
Do it all the time. So much excitement at finally getting to drive The Car.
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