In reply to jimgood :
I relate to this...no worries. I will mark down progress in this thread so you'll know if I am looking good for SP. Today is MORE yard work and then I'm cooking for the family. In the back of my mind I am plotting my strategy with engine pulls, lift vs jackstands for various jobs, etc.
I am thinking I will pull the race car engine first and get that on a stand. Then put 36 in the trailer...put the corvette on the lift.
Hey, at least that way the 36 will be a few hundred pounds lighter and easier to push and steer into the trailer. Bonus! 
Look forward to following along. I have faith you'll get it done in time for SP 'cuz I know you want to!
I am going to scrap the musical chairs/engine exercise.
I am looking for a good Ls1 block and will build up a new engine using my ASA engine parts. It will take time so I am trying to be ok with missing a chunk, and perhaps the rest, of this season.
This isn't the fastest solution but it's probably the most adult one. Sometimes I don't adult well.
If anyone has a line on a block, a bottom end or even a good complete 5.7 LS1, shout it out please.
Hello weekend!
Good news...Johnny_at_NineLives has a functional LS1 from a C5, and we have struck a deal.
I will get down his way within a couple of weeks and snatch it.
That doesn't leave me time to get to Summit Point, but at least I have a plan and I'm not dead sticking it anymore.
I will be picking stuff out of the Camaro this weekend in anticipation of the transplant. Of course, I will share in pictographs.
I am happy to have bought from within the hive. It just feels better this way.
It was a pretty good day in the shop.
I am going to document this more detailed than normal, so that I have a reference when I put the new engine in. Thanks GRM. I saved the pics a little smaller than normal because #HughesnetChallenged
The first thing this morning, i pulle the driveshaft. It's pretty simple...four nuts and the rear universal slips out of the diff. The yoke slides right out, and I just slid the entire unit back toward the fuel cell for safekeeping.
Next step is removal of the shifter. The last time I dropped that trans, I did not do this step...I am thinking this will save some hastle, plus, I am working solo this weekend. Without an extra set of hands around, this seems prudent.
Early on, you guys guided me with good advice. I was going to permanently attach the door to the body...you all wisely advised i make the door open, and even make it removable. I thank you. I thank you very much.
With the shifter off, the door off and the removal of the riveted panel behind the shifter, dropping the trans was pretty quick and not as precarious as it was last time. 
Drilling out the pop rivets from the panel behind the shifter also helped with easier removal. I was able to easily move the trans back enough to clear the input shaft before lowering.
While I was back in the transmission area, I removed the two rear motor mounts....this one is on the passenger side. I has a fairly thick spacer. The one on the drive side is about half the thickness.
Next, I drained the oil. I started with the reservoir in the rear...most of the oil was removed from there. On the drivers side of the oil pan, there is a return line (large hose front and lower) and two lines circulating oil to the cooler (rear and higher).
The port just to the right of the return line is blanked off and not used.
The supply line goes from the reservoir, through a filter and to the oil pump. There is not much space up front at this point, so I disconnected the line from the filter. When I pull the engine, I will pull that line out with the unit and remove when I have a little more luxurious space.
Next, I removed the framework that holds the one piece FG front end one...BEFORE:
AFTER:
.On my first test day, my hood sucked down, locking the throttle open...not the best. These two black crossmembers were installed to stop that from happening again. Just four nuts and they come right off.
Next, a miracle happened. All of the exhaust manifold bolts came out with no struggle. First time for everything.
ASA cars used a returnless fuel system. That played a role in my fuel cell replacement...it is a little unusual to not have a return line. But, it makes removing the fuel delivery system simple. Note the very cool adjustable AN tool ...thanks PunchyWrench/Ed.
I will spare you the next catalogue of images, but I captured them so I could follow along on reassembly. I disconnected the air intake to the throttle body, disconnected the alternator, grounds to the lower driver side block and injector harness. There was a large cluster of ground wires that were put behind the power steering reservoir/pulley, so I had to remove the outer belt, PS unit to remove the grounds...then I put the unit back on finger tight.
the wiring is disconnected, labeled and clear on the driver side. Tomorrow I will do the same on the passenger side, then I should be pretty close to lifting the engine out.
Nice progress, Jack!
Awesome. Very, very awesome.
And it didn't eat bearings or anything, just the block. Correct? So no debris in the oil?
In reply to jimgood :
Thanks Jim!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
That's right. The oil looked good. I usually send the oil out for analysis during a change but since this block is out the window I just dumped it to waste. But there was no evidence of metal or anything odd.
Have you considered pulling the motor and transmission as a unit?
I leave the trans connected and deal with it after the engine comes out. Less back breaking.
Might not be possible with your setup though
In reply to HalfFast :
I considered it but with the way my frame is constructed and the way the upper section of the shifter protrudes, I decided to pull it. I may assemble it outside the car and see if I can do that with a helper.
All clear.
I should have moved the front cross brace and the radiator before starting. It just barely didn't clear...might have gotten it with the tilter, but decided to go stress free.
When I put the new engine in I will mount the bell housing and transmission and slide it right in. 
This was better. 
I put my sweet HF engine stand together and there we are. 
I'm going to hold off tearing this engine down until I have the donor alongside. In the meantime I will do some sprucing up in the engine bay. Lots of room for activities. 
jh36 said:This was better.
Ya, with that arrangement, trans in with motor will be easy
Well, the crack looks pretty terrible as noted earlier. But with the bell housing off, it's even worse. Missing a chunk around a head bolt.
Poking around the rear section of this block, there are a few more places with tiny cracks...maybe nothing but could have grown to be somebody.
I was chatting with the previous owner/driver Deren. He wondered if all this could have been prevented with some support for the trans. As is, the unit just hangs off the back only supported by the bell housing and block. There are some tapped holes on the t-101 ready for a support to be rigged up. I'm thinking something with bushings...but enough to at least lend a little help to the block.
thoughts?
When you completely tear down the block, I'd very much like to see some detailed pics of how far the carnage actually got. Be interesting to see if it is all new damage (ie, all shiny and no corrosion) or if some of it was there for a while.
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