I finally joined the 4x4 crowd - 1995 4runner

I'll have to update my thread on the Jalpa here after this but I am so damned excited to FINALLY have a 4runner in my stable.

A little history.  I bought a '97 Kia Sportage 4x4.  It was... rough.  I spent more time and money than I wanted getting it fixed up, only for it to end up having misfire issues and stuff I just finally gave up on.  I decided "I'm getting rid of this thing and getting a 4runner."

One popped up on marketplace from a local gentleman who was selling it because he said he was pushed to sell it.  

I did notice it has some oil in the coolant, and makes me think that it may have a chain that is in the process of failing.  So I have drove it home, parked it, and ordered a bunch of parts.

It runs and drives perfectly.  No hiccups.  As much power as I'd expect a 22R to have.  Heater works, AC works, has a nice stereo, shifts smooth as butter.  I really can't find anything besides a few small electrical gremlins that made me go "HMMM".  A few weekends of wrenching and I think it'll be reliable for years to come.

I want to drive this thing for years and years and be able to take it out in the middle of nowhere without worrying about things so I ordered the following:

Spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor.  Valve cover grommets and hardware.  Engine gasket kit (head gasket and seals for all of it).  head parts including valve stem seals.  Thermostat, housing and seals.  Radiator cap.  Oil pan gasket.  Clutch hydraulics, and clutch kit.  Shifter kit.  Timing chain kit, timing chain housing, guides, gaskets for the water pump and oil pump. 

 Cosmetic stuff:  Gloss black vinyl wrap (one of the doors was replaced with a red door, and a fender that was prepped for paint and not finished, easy fix)

It came with a bunch of parts in boxes for the suspension the previous owner planned on replacing, and I will be installing those as well (new struts and suspension pieces).

Other plans:  3d print some rad mounts for the turn signals because they were ziptied to the new cool bumper the previous owner installed.  The bumper is great but those turn signals are driving me batty with how they are mounted.  Lastly, there is a few weird wiring things such as the brake lights turning on when the lights are on, but I'm sure I can figure that out with a multimeter and a few hours of digging into it.  If I had to guess, probably a grounding issue related to the new bumper install in the back.

Will get some new photos in the afternoon tomorrow because I got it home just before dark and didn't have good light to work with.

That looks really nice!

Woody (Forum Supportum) said:

That looks really nice!

Needs some cosmetic love but I'll post some before and after pics once I get there.  Looking forward to it!  I'm so excited to have a 4runner!

Having relatively recently pulled the timing cover myself, the bolts are a bunch of different lengths (and weren't all correct with the truck I had).  Map them as you pull them out!

Tagging in to the thread for some 4-Runner awesomeness!

Don't forget the "Jesus Bolt" when removing the cylinder head.  It's right at the front and goes into the timing cover, it'll be submerged in a pool of oil.  I call it that because after poking and prodding, and trying every trick in the book to get the cylinder head removed from the engine, I'll eventually remember that bolt and say "aw, Jesus..."

Them's some beefy bumpers.  Cool.

As for the electric problem, I reminded of my ole '83 VW Rabbit. 

Every time I stepped on the brakes the dashboard would light up and both front turn signal would illuminate.  I was stumped.  

Later, one evening I got pulled over (and got just a warning) for no brake lights. Actually, the brake lights were on at all times if the headlights/tail lights were on.  

Turns out my tail light bulb called for double filliment bulbs and one (just one) had been wrongly changed to a single filament.  So, if tail lights were on, they both only came on at full brightness.  Then when I stepped  on the brake pedal, which was supposed send extra juice to make them brighter, that extra juice seemed to wrongly go somewhere; front turn signals and dashboard lights.  

Odd, I know but check that all double filliment bulbs actually have double filliment.  

Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:

Tagging in to the thread for some 4-Runner awesomeness!

Don't forget the "Jesus Bolt" when removing the cylinder head.  It's right at the front and goes into the timing cover, it'll be submerged in a pool of oil.  I call it that because after poking and prodding, and trying every trick in the book to get the cylinder head removed from the engine, I'll eventually remember that bolt and say "aw, Jesus..."

A Subaru engine block has at least three of those bolts :) There's always one more lurking in a dark recess...

Absolutely love this!

In reply to John Welsh :

That's an interesting one I had not considered.  It's only with the headlights on which is odd.  But I could see how a "running light issue" could turn into this with such a setup.  If the lights are off, they function as intended.  With the running lights on, it's like my brakes are on full time.  I will check this, seems a very easy thing to check.

corsepervita said:

In reply to John Welsh :

It's only with the headlights on which is odd 

If the lights are off, they function as intended. 

With the running lights on, it's like my brakes are on full time. 

Yep, this was my same issues.  

Follow this logic...
0 = taillights off
1 = tail lights (running lights) on
2 = brighter brake lights on.  
But, with the single filament, there is no #1 since it goes straight to #2.  

Daytime driving is then 0 and you apply the brake and you get #2, all seems right.  
Night time driving you are not getting #1, they have gone straight to #2 and your brake lights appear to be on constantly.  When you apply the brake thinking you are requesting #2...funny things happen.  

John Welsh said:

corsepervita said:

In reply to John Welsh :

It's only with the headlights on which is odd 

If the lights are off, they function as intended. 

With the running lights on, it's like my brakes are on full time. 

Yep, this was my same issues.  

Follow this logic...
0 = taillights off
1 = tail lights (running lights) on
2 = brighter brake lights on.  
But, with the single filament, there is no #1 since it goes straight to #2.  

Daytime driving is then 0 and you apply the brake and you get #2, all seems right.  
Night time driving you are not getting #1, they have gone straight to #2 and your brake lights appear to be on constantly.  When you apply the brake thinking you are requesting #2...funny things happen.  

Ok that completely makes sense.  Double filament bulb, circuit closed on circuit one to first filament leg = running lights.  Circuit closes on circuit 2 for brakes = brake lights.  Cross that out into a single filament bulb and when running lights are enabled, entire thing is enabled because there is no second leg for the circuit, it's just one circuit, on or off.

John Welsh said:

Them's some beefy bumpers.  Cool.

 

As for the electric problem, I reminded of my ole '83 VW Rabbit. 

Every time I stepped on the brakes the dashboard would light up and both front turn signal would illuminate.  I was stumped.  

Later, one evening I got pulled over (and got just a warning) for no brake lights. Actually, the brake lights were on at all times if the headlights/tail lights were on.  

Turns out my tail light bulb called for double filliment bulbs and one (just one) had been wrongly changed to a single filament.  So, if tail lights were on, they both only came on at full brightness.  Then when I stepped  on the brake pedal, which was supposed send extra juice to make them brighter, that extra juice seemed to wrongly go somewhere; front turn signals and dashboard lights.  

Odd, I know but check that all double filliment bulbs actually have double filliment.  

You nailed it.  singles in all of the double sockets.  (This is actually a socket for single but it was replaced with a double lol) but still, the wrong bulbs in the wrong ones.  Problem solved, works perfect now.

Also bought 40 ziplock bags for when it's timing chain time.

Fantastic! 

Alright, starting the process of getting the head off.

Step 1... disconnect all 500 vacuum lines.

I've documented and pictured where everything goes so I do not forget, and sorted parts in bags.  I'm also glad I made the call to buy new rubber in the engine bay for things like the intake because they're all so hard, I could barely get them off with the clamps off.

The amount of vacuum lines is bananas.

Whole bunch of parts arrive.

Whole bunch more parts ordered.  I got the crank pulley off and everything in the front tonight.  Unfortunately, the crank bolt has seen better days, so a new one is on the way.  I figure it makes more sense since I am gonna drop the head off and get it skimmed, that I should probably get the right hardware as well so it's not an issue in the future.

I broke 2 breaker bars on it, thankfully warranty replaced both, then I stepped it up with a real beefy 1/2" bar and a torch and THAT did the trick.  I don't know if it's just because it's been in there forever, or if a previous owner believed in ugga duggas instead of torque wrenches, but I got it.

This should be fun!

Super tough trucks

Truck looks great!

Definitely a worthwhile project.

Got another shipment of parts, the new chain guide and kit showed up.  I sprung for the "reinforced kit" after reading it's metal backed instead of plastic.  My understanding, after reading up on the common issues, is that the guides fail because the plastic becomes old and brittle and then the chain starts eating them alive, forcing them to crumble and then eating into the housing.

New housing, new kit, metal backed guides, so we should be pretty well set.

I think tonight I may be able to make it to getting the head off but we'll see.

Found my culprit of oil in the coolant.  At first glance, I thought, "Well, it definitely has chain damage, but it hasn't worn through yet so maybe it's something else."
I put my glasses on and looked again and went, "Wait a minute... are those cracks?" and sure enough, there is a chain shaped push through there, with cracks forming.  They are small, but the amount of oil in the coolant was very minimal.  I'm guessing it just started to leak.  Either way, issue found.

Already have a new housing, and a very nice melling kit for the guides.  So I should be set!

Awesome rig! I love seeing these mid 90's "import" trucks/SUV's  getting  love. 
 

also, i didnt know they put the  22r in these. 

Corsepervita build threads are like "Cousin Eddies" build threads, i know they are going to be done well and entertaining!

Alright guys I got the chain set, timing set, and I'm in "Put it back together mode." Inbetween working on this have been helping a friend get his head rebuilt on his 2.0 Jetta and that's done too so it's crunch time on the 4runner.

Doing the vacuum lines will be interesting as there is a ton of them.  I did label before I disassembled but wow, I don't think I've ever seen this many.  The gasket was an absolute pain in the ass to keep still on the housing and on the block so I used the tiniest dab of superglue on the edge.  There were some marks of course on the block side but either way I went the damn thing kept getting pulled off or moved so I made the executive decision to just... keep it still.

New pump too!

Almost there.

I am shocked this thing drove 2 teeth off.  I honestly didn't even feel like it was out of time.  It just putted along super smooth with no problems.  Chain guide missing and off time.  Look at that nice new shiny housing.  Cleaned all the grounds while I was at it.  Once I'm done I'm going to bathe this thing in degreaser with a nice soft wire brush lol.

Dropped the oil pan.  While I cannot see in it yet (gotta drop the diff) I put my hand in the dip and can feel a sea of plastic and debris.  It's coming out.  I am far too sore and tired tonight to do it and i don't wanna start missing stuff.  So I'll do it tomorrow or tuesday.

But things I got done today:

- Chain is done, reinforced guides are in, so if it does start to fail, the guides won't snap in half and end up in the pan.  instead, the pads are more noticeable, they are metal backed, and if it does start to have issues, I at least know I'm looking at replacing guides instead of a whole entire chain (although one can argue, "If i'm down here, may as well!"

- Distributor lined up on marks, near as I can tell it's basically exactly where it was when I took it apart.  Will obviously hit it with a timing light.

- Did a compression test.  190 across the board.  Happy engine.  This makes me very happy as one of my concerns was, "If it skipped teeth, did it bend valves?" Well, I got my answer.  No.

- Ran a bunch of vacuum lines.  Capped some off, cleaned up the engine bay.

- New fuses

- Various wiring fixes on sensors.

- Cleaned the hell out of the throttle body

- New plugs, wires, cap, rotor

Parts on the way:

Steering dampener, brake lines (these are very old, and while the brakes are VERY sensitive and feel super solid... I don't wanna trust super old lines), oil pickup tube gasket (it crumbled in my hands taking it out), toyota gasket maker, drum hardware, brake clips, air filter, fuel filter, uhhhhh.  I think that mostly covers it.

TJL (Forum Supporter) said:

Awesome rig! I love seeing these mid 90's "import" trucks/SUV's  getting  love. 
 

also, i didnt know they put the  22r in these. 

 

Corsepervita build threads are like "Cousin Eddies" build threads, i know they are going to be done well and entertaining!

looks like a 22re to me

just mislabled

In reply to onemanarmy :

I believe this is the case, as the 22R was a carb and 22RE was fuel injection.  It appears someone either got a valve cover from a 22r they put on here, or the wrong sticker.  I tried to do some research on this and the 22RE and RET were the options for these years.  If I had to guess, based on the way this thing is put together from previous owners, it's likely a 22R valve cover.

Alright so... got a list of things... the Toyota is running again at last.

One very interesting observation is that I think someone set the timing after the chain guide went and the chain had slack.  I lined the timing back up to the exact marks and it was the opposite of where it should have been, like.... 25-30 degrees.  Pulled that back obviously and now it's idling perfect and smooth as butter.  However, I think someone originally set the timing to compensate for the crank and cam having moved apart from the huge amount of slack.  There was probably 20 degrees of movement in there.  

Set the timing after everything and buttoned it all up and it is running superbly.

- New chain, new chain housing, new sprockets, new tensioner, new guides (melling reinforced)

- New bearings on the pulleys

- New gaskets for the housing

- Adjusted the hood gap spacer screws, the hood would stick and wasn't shutting right.  Someone had taken the rubber spacers and put them down tight as they'd go... no wonder it shut like E36 M3.

- New battery terminals, the positive was flopping around like a fish on it.

- New water pump

- Rebuilt the oil pump

- New oil pump seal and new hardware on the crank nose because berkeley that bolt entirely.

- New gasket for the oil pickup tube, new hardware, and new oil pan gasket because holy E36 M3 it needed it.

- Cleaned the entire oil pan to ensure there were no contaminants and I was starting over fresh.

- New steering dampener and new hardware for it as well.

- New power steering line (pressure side) and completely flushed the rack

- New cap, new rotor, new plugs, new wires

- Flushed the whole berkeleying coolant system, installed new radiator cap.

- Fixed the tail lights (they were indeed using the wrong bulbs) so that "gremlin" is fixed

- New hardware for the water pump

- New valve cover gasket, grommets, and hardware for that too

- Reran multiple vacuum lines and eliminated the unnecessary crap that was on it.

- Set timing and idle since it needed it after the new chain. Someone had set it with the chain being off as far as it was. I am not going to lie, I'm shocked it ran that way.

- Lubricated all the cables and adjusted the throttle body

- Cleaned the throttle body completely, in and out, all ports

- Called it a rotten bastard more times than I can count

Sadly, I cannot drive it today because I was working on the shifter bushings, and they were supposed to be delivered yesterday but apparently they are dealing with huge delays at UPS and it will be here monday. So I can't really do anything till then because the center console is apart.

Not the end of the world, it's runnin' like a beast and I can't wait to go have fun.