I need help

I want to build a street/strip truck my plan is a 1991 chevy c1500 single cab short bed. My motor plan is a procharger 383 with efi. I need help deciding on rearend gears, what efi system to use, mpfi or TBI, how to increase hp rating for efi system, and has anyone ever used the ft600 engine management system? And I'm probably going to ask more

If anymore info is needed just ask. Not everything is completely decided on this truck so I might not have a answer to everything.

First off, on behalf of all of the sport truck guys on this forum. I'm gonna have to demand to see some pics of the truck dude! Can't have build thread without pics.

Secondly, layout what are your power goals and type of racing you're going to be doing? 

Have you given any thought to a turbo LSx?  You can piece together 6-800hp worth of turbo LS for half of that FT600 EFI system. 

EFI:

The stock computers on late model GM products, an upgraded fuel system and HP tuners is probably the best way to go on a machine that is going to see a lot of street time.  Micro/Megasquirt is a great option too if you are more of a DIYer like a lot of us on here. 

Gearing:

Auto or Manual? What transmission will you be using? What size tire?  Google around and find a gearing calculator Excel sheet.

In reply to RacetruckRon :

Will get pics as soon as I can going to look at a truck soon hopefully for start. The exact motor build I'm going off of with a few of my own tweaks is a blueprint engine built for boost. With the f-1a-94 procharger carbed it made 645 hp to the crank and 624 ft/lbs. Considering the weight I'd like to get more out of it. I've heavily considered using a boosted lsx. My dream motor is a lsx454 built and boosted in some way shape or form. But right now I have the block to build the 383 and it's also something I've always wanted to do. It would be my first personal build. My plans for a trans are either getting a th350 (preferably) or the th400 i have already and getting it built by a local shop called freakshow performance. Or ordering a th400 or 4l80e from monster transmission.I dont know tire size yet I haven't looked much at them nor know much about tires. And yes the truck will start out street/strip but it's probably going to move more toards strip as I get more power. Ex: lsx454 or bbc like 502

Link for engine build I went off of :

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1506-700-hp-383-small-block-with-procharger-f-1a-94-supercharger/

Sorry if I missed anything and yes most things done for truck will be done by me

If you don't own the truck yet what is your reasoning for starting with that platform? An S-10/Sonoma chassis is hundreds of pounds lighter (and ergo faster) and still a Chevrolet truck, or else there's 3rd and 4th gen F-Bodies, or smaller import trucks like the Luv. There's no reason to start with a penalty if you can help it.

As for the other questions, since you already have a block and a TH400, it sounds like the 383 combo would be a great place to start. Since you've never built an engine before, why not put your motor together cheaply as an N/A motor to start so you are at least racing the truck? Get a season under your belt and learn chassis tuning and caring for your new bullet. Then when it comes time for more power you can either step up to the LS or BB motor you really want or if the 383 is still together you can refresh it for boost and add the ProCharger.

Remember, the kid actually racing at the track is infinitely cooler than the one building something for years. Get out there and have some fun!

In reply to Javelin :

Although I agree that the s10 would be much much lighter or even going with a car my reasoning for going with the 90s c1500 is because I want it to be a single cab short bed vertion of my truck. I have a 1991 gmc Sierra 1500 extended cab regular bed. And I completely agree now that you say it. It would be better to build a 383 N/A and get to it. I've never though about it. I say I've never built a motor but I've built 2 or 3 just not for me. I've built a 350 a 327 and a 345 all for mud trucks. And now with the consideration of building a "for now" motor would the stock th400 with a slightly larger stall coververter hold up to a mostly stock 383? And advice on a "cheaply built 383"? I haven't been able to find a 400 crank that isnt forged and cost a pretty penny. The reason I was going to go straight to the procharged 383 is because I'd have quite a bit of time to build it considering I am going to basic training for the marines in August after I graduate and then to tech school for a year roughly probably less for aviation mec.

faitef said:

In reply to Javelin :

Although I agree that the s10 would be much much lighter or even going with a car my reasoning for going with the 90s c1500 is because I want it to be a single cab short bed vertion of my truck. I have a 1991 gmc Sierra 1500 extended cab regular bed. And I completely agree now that you say it. It would be better to build a 383 N/A and get to it. I've never though about it. I say I've never built a motor but I've built 2 or 3 just not for me. I've built a 350 a 327 and a 345 all for mud trucks. And now with the consideration of building a "for now" motor would the stock th400 with a slightly larger stall coververter hold up to a mostly stock 383? And advice on a "cheaply built 383"? I haven't been able to find a 400 crank that isnt forged and cost a pretty penny. The reason I was going to go straight to the procharged 383 is because I'd have quite a bit of time to build it considering I am going to basic training for the marines in August after I graduate and then to tech school for a year roughly probably less for aviation mec.

The reason I chose a th400 for my 94 Sierra was because I had many credible people tell me that they will take a whackload of power with basic shift kit and a good cooler.

In reply to faitef :

Sounds like you're attached to your current truck, which is cool, but that's not a good reason to do the same body as your drag truck. I assume your truck is more of a DD right? Just enjoy it for what it is ans hunt down the S10 or 3rd Gen Camaro for the build, you'll be money and ET ahead. 

On to the motor, there's tons of 383 kits from off-brand offshore companies available through parts houses like Jeg's, Summit, and Speedway. Hell, Amazon has them for $730! Your TH400 would hold up just fine to it though I would at least throw a shift kit at it. 

Buy an S10, build the cheap 383 and TH400 combo, throw a gear and some tires at it, and you'll be doing 12's before you hit boot camp.

In reply to 1SlowVW :

Yea from what I've seen they can take quite a bit of power but I didnt know if it was enough. I'd assume so so I'll get a good transcooler and some type of shift kit.

In reply to Javelin :

So I also have a 1982 camaro with no motor or trans... what about that? It's got aluminum wheels good tire set up fiber glass cowl hood and i think after market adjustable shocks. I also have a set of 10.5 slicks on itp wheels that will bolt up to it. Opinion on using that?

In reply to faitef :

Is this a trick question? You have a light chassis which many people have had success with drag racing. Build a sbc, use your th400 and go fast with your f body!

1SlowVW said:

In reply to faitef :

Is this a trick question? You have a light chassis which many people have had success with drag racing. Build a sbc, use your th400 and go fast with your f body!

I'm with this guy!!!

Dude, you have a car, a trans, and an engine. Get wrenching and put that thing together!!!

In reply to Javelin :

So build the camaro it is! Any input for gears??

In reply to faitef :

Whatever is in it until they blow up!

Just shove a motor in it already.

Javelin said:

In reply to faitef :

Whatever is in it until they blow up!

Just shove a motor in it already.

We should be friends.

Gears and rear and can be changed later. Get it running then worry about fine tuning.

In reply to 1SlowVW :

Haha will do I'll keep yall updated. Thanks for all of the input!!!!

You’ll never know what you need for gears, for stall, for any of it until you start running down the track. You can obviously make some assumptions based on logic but the details will take some actual track time.

Some motor/trans combos (not to mention power-adders) need certain combos of gears, stall, timing etc.

Will you be igniting the tires off the line? Who knows? Will you be faster with 3.73 vs 4.11? You’ll never know without the car running down the 1/4. And will this be for the 1/4 or the 1/8th? All things will need to be taken into account but I’d say not before you have a drivable car.

In reply to ebonyandivory :

That's understandable. Fir now all I'm trying to do is get it to go atleast out of my driveway before I start worrying about everything else. I had the camaro build pretty much planned out so it kinda works out but I'm going to start with getting it all driveable before I start build building it

1SlowVW said:

Javelin said:

In reply to faitef :

Whatever is in it until they blow up!

Just shove a motor in it already.

We should be friends.

 

Gears and rear and can be changed later. Get it running then worry about fine tuning.

You can subscribe to my newsletter.

Yes, just like my own 3rd gen. I have a pile of parts I'm throwing together to get the damn thing moving before I start throwing more money changing. Sounds like your pile of parts is nicer than mine.

Javelin said:

In reply to faitef :

Whatever is in it until they blow up!

Just shove a motor in it already.

This. You don't have to take out a second mortgage and throw the Jegs catalog at it to go fast.

In reply to Daylan C :

lol i dont know cant be that good if it doesnt run. im honestly really proud of myself for what ive done by age 18 and everything ive learned. i also have a 1992 camaro rs special edition 25th anniversery that eventually i want to restore mostly factory. good lunk on the build by the way!

In reply to RacetruckRon :

i realize that NOW. i wanted crazyish amouts of power but thinking about it now i know that would take forever to get and build. so now here i am and i found me a 383 kit really cheap so im hoping to order it very soon.

also another question/story. how i acquired my 3rd gen camaro. i had a 1998 yamaha blaster that was built pretty good. i could keep up with yfz 450s that are 10 years newer (driver error in my personal opinion) but anyway my stepdad burnt the clutch up in it and i didnt know how to fix it after i ordered the kit... another smart move on my part so i traded it for this 1982 camaro. 305 motor locked up. i asked for pics the guy sent me pics months before he blew the motor car looked great. i drive 4 hours there to get the car... its sitting on theground not even on blocks witha tire blown out. i didnt want to drive 4 hours for nothing and though the motor would be a easy fix. i get it home and pull the motor and there is a rod sricking out of the oil pan. my frist thought "fuc******. def. not a easy fix. dirty basterd" when i picked the car up the guy said he did a dounut at a intersection car started knocking he pulled off the the side of the road killed it waited 15 minutes and started it back up it ran fine he got it home went back out to start it and it woulnt start. click then nothing he said he tried jumping it and same thing. needless to say i wasnt happy when i pulled the motor out. so i pulled motor apart at my house and found out that shi* was fuvkkkkeeeeddddd. broken rod cap twisted rod with piston pin still on it. piston still in in cylinder. got everything pulled apart looked at block there was cracks down the 2 cylinder walls and cracks by the freeze plugs on both sides. this leads me to my question. how do you twist a rod and do all that damage N/A???? ill post pics in a second of rod