In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
I was planning to just use some more of the same left over ply I used for the splitter. The chord is about 10.75"
Because I'm not going through the effort of tracking down an actual intake, I landed on a cone filter directly on the throttle body and a small breather filter for the valve cover. Annoyingly, I sorta smushed the breather pushing it into place but it'll have to do.
I also painted the kill switch mount. I did not, however, paint the mounting nuts because, come on, we don't want Guac getting too nice now do we?
In reply to AxeHealey :
for your budget, stock brake rotors are free, but the EBC pads are not. you sure you need the EBCs for challenge?
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Seriously? That's bogus if you ask me (a first time participant).
But, yeah, I bought and installed the Hawk pads so they're staying on it. I'm not going to go through the effort of trying to sell previously installed Hawk pads for a Mini.
This seems like a good time to give a budget update.
Guac - $675
Wheel adapter - $50
Queso throw away universal shift knob - $5
Wheels - $160
Door bars - $33.54
Various bits that came with the roll bar kit - $4.02 (I think that's super generous)
Cheapo steering wheel - $20
Left over seat rails/mounts - $10? (scrap price+)
Seat - $50
New front end links - $22
Scrap aluminum and rivets for fenders - $2?
Coilovers - $328
Motor mount - $22.87
Tailgate rams - $14.80
Rear end links - $20.85
Windshield clips - $2.37
HPS Pads - $260.80
Rear upper shock mounts - $34.53
Splitter aluminum - $22.50 (I bought two 48x48 sheets specifically for this for $60 and have used about 3/4 of 1)
Splitter rivets - $5 (?)
K&N filter & breather - $79.25
$1,697.53
Recoup wheels - $125
$1,572.53
There may be a few misc things here and there that I'm missing but that's a close number. Maybe I'm missing $5-$10 in scrap steel used for the wing mount, etc. but the tow hook and lower mounts are literal trash steel that I held on to. The plywood for the splitter is just cheapo leftovers from the splitter I made for Sven and so far the paint I've used is just stuff that's been sitting on the shelf.
AxeHealey said:
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Seriously? That's bogus if you ask me (a first time participant).
But, yeah, I bought and installed the Hawk pads so they're staying on it. I'm not going to go through the effort of trying to sell previously installed Hawk pads for a Mini.
Do you still have the ebc red pads you took off? Were they in good shape? Also do you still have any of the exhaust that you mentioned not using earlier in the thread?
I have a extra strut tower brace that I might be willing to trade if you were interested.
In reply to Somebeach (Forum Supporter) :
The pads that I took off seem to be in good shape. I assume they are EBC reds because well, they're red, and the car was being built into a track car. There are zero markings on them though.
The only thing left of the exhaust that is not on the car is the rear muffler. Everything else was totally destroyed.
As for the strut brace - does it use those silly spacers? The one I bought and have yet to install uses them and one was rusted and snapped off so I've just put it on the back burner.
In other news, the wing supports have been painted semi-gloss black. I almost went with a the bright green my daughter and I chose for the livery but thought it could look cool if these supports sort of disappear.
AxeHealey said:
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
I was planning to just use some more of the same left over ply I used for the splitter. The chord is about 10.75"
can you give me a picture of the leftovers, and general dimensions... and I'll napkin-draw something up for you.
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
How about the attempt I just made? These are about 12" long by 9" tall. That's the piece I had left cut in half and then shaped as you see.
In reply to AxeHealey :
yeah, that'll do. although, the way I see them, they're 12inches tall, and 9inches in chord (i.e. rotate them 90deg). this means the endplate is longer, which should help with efficienty, and orients the grain of the endplate in the "strong direction".
I'll recommend that you mount them "evenweirderer", though. specifically that you bring the back edge of the endplate forward compared to the back edge of the foil. Yes, that means the tip-vortex will be able to wrap onto the underside of the foil a bit... but it also combats the intersection-drag buildup that inevitably happens on these high-camber foils mounted with 90deg endplates. also, scootching it forward means that some of the front edge of the endplate will do a minor amount of flow conditioning too.
if you mock them up, and decide it looks better to have them "landscape" instead of "portrait"... I still suggest you scootch them forward ~2in minimum; and the extra 4inches ahead of the wing will be performing more flow straightening work.
In reply to AxeHealey :
If you want them, I've got a set of new-in-box Hawk HPS rear pads that I never got around to installing on my wife's Mini Clubman (non-S) before we got rid of the car. I think they're the same as the non-S hardtop. Let me know...
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
I down with "evenweirderer". How about vertical placement?
nlevine:
I appreciate the offer! I suppose that would remove the cost of the rear pads from budget (?). I'll send you a PM.
Big strides have been made in the appearance of Guac. I'm pumped about it but I'm not sure yet whether I'll post her final look before the Challenge or not...
Some less exciting stuff that is not really worth sharing - the sills are painted. This was mostly a strategy to get rid of the rust along the bottom of the driver's door.
I realized that the wheel studs and lug nuts aren't in the budget (also not sure whether that counts) as well as I assume I'll have to tally up 1/2 of a rattle can here, 1/3 there, etc. etc.
There's also the $20 worth of Lexan from Patrick for the windshield. Some other stuff I've been working on while paint dries.
Dash top.
Wire hiding.
I had a chat with highway patrol last week about what it might take to get Guac registerable again in Ohio. The odds seem to be not 100% but I haven't actually heard back from the head honcho who is supposed to get back to me. I have left all of the wiring in tact so that hooking up front turns and headlights is simple.
Have I mentioned that Guac is for sale immediately following the Concours?
Guac is for sale immediately following the Concours.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to AxeHealey :
for your budget, stock brake rotors are free, but the EBC pads are not. you sure you need the EBCs for challenge?
Disagree. Any pads are free in budget as long as they are listed for the OEM application.
edit: Additionally, anything that came with the car is already in the budget. So if the EBC pads, or drilled/slotted rotors, or even some huge non-OEM big brake setup came with the car, it's already accounted for. Replacing any of those components with a fresh version is free.
maschinenbau said:
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to AxeHealey :
for your budget, stock brake rotors are free, but the EBC pads are not. you sure you need the EBCs for challenge?
Disagree. Any pads are free in budget as long as they are listed for the OEM application.
edit: Additionally, anything that came with the car is already in the budget. So if the EBC pads, or drilled/slotted rotors, or even some huge non-OEM big brake setup came with the car, it's already accounted for. Replacing any of those components with a fresh version is free.
i disagree with your disagreement. here's what the rule says:
-
Partial Exemption: The Burchett Rule: Brake friction materials, lines, calipers, master cylinders, boosters, rotors and drums may be replaced with fresh ones that are duplicates or stock replacements without increasing or decreasing the budget. “Duplicate” is defined as having the same listed application in a major parts catalog as the part being replaced. Stock replacement is defined as having the Challenge car’s year, make, model, and trim listed as an application in a major parts catalog, or, if non-OEM front and/or rear subframes/axles/hubs/knuckles are used, the year, make, model, and trim of the donor vehicle listed as an application in a major parts catalog.
hmmm, so "duplicate" and "stock replacement" are clarified, but "application" is not. and you're suggesting that "EBC Red" would be the same application as "OEM". I would suggest that "application" refers to "use case," and EBC Red is not appropriate for "OEM" use case.
I'm bowing out of this discussion now, because (1) it doesn't affect me, and (2) this is Schroedinger's application. \m/
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
maschinenbau said:
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to AxeHealey :
for your budget, stock brake rotors are free, but the EBC pads are not. you sure you need the EBCs for challenge?
Disagree. Any pads are free in budget as long as they are listed for the OEM application.
edit: Additionally, anything that came with the car is already in the budget. So if the EBC pads, or drilled/slotted rotors, or even some huge non-OEM big brake setup came with the car, it's already accounted for. Replacing any of those components with a fresh version is free.
i disagree with your disagreement. here's what the rule says:
-
Partial Exemption: The Burchett Rule: Brake friction materials, lines, calipers, master cylinders, boosters, rotors and drums may be replaced with fresh ones that are duplicates or stock replacements without increasing or decreasing the budget. “Duplicate” is defined as having the same listed application in a major parts catalog as the part being replaced. Stock replacement is defined as having the Challenge car’s year, make, model, and trim listed as an application in a major parts catalog, or, if non-OEM front and/or rear subframes/axles/hubs/knuckles are used, the year, make, model, and trim of the donor vehicle listed as an application in a major parts catalog.
hmmm, so "duplicate" and "stock replacement" are clarified, but "application" is not. and you're suggesting that "EBC Red" would be the same application as "OEM". I would suggest that "application" refers to "use case," and EBC Red is not appropriate for "OEM" use case.
I'm bowing out of this discussion now, because (1) it doesn't affect me, and (2) this is Schroedinger's application. \m/
I think that duplicate means the same thing that was on the car when it was purchased (not the original new car purchase, the most recent - for the challenge purchase) Otherwise it would just leave the term oem. The term duplicate would not be needed in the statement.
To say it another way, if my challenge car had hawk blues on it when I purchased it, and wore them the berk out, I could buy new hawk blues and be good to go.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
damn son, that was a great explanation. I stand corrected. TIL.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
you're suggesting that "EBC Red" would be the same application as "OEM". I would suggest that "application" refers to "use case," and EBC Red is not appropriate for "OEM" use case.
That's exactly what I'm suggesting. If EBC says the application of this model of Red Pad is for this Mini Cooper, then that's the listed application. That's the only way "duplicate" and "stock replacement" are defined in the rules. This extends to rotors if you wanted to "upgrade" to Rockauto drilled and slotted rotors listed for the same application. But once you go to a different size meant for a different trim/model, you have now gone "non-OEM" and the upgrade has to be accounted for. -signed, a hobbyist pedant.
But it doesn't matter anyway, because the car was purchased with the parts already on
AxeHealey said:
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
I down with "evenweirderer". How about vertical placement?
apologies this has taken ~2weeks. I'd suggest something like this...
although, the paralax is throwing me off from really getting that penciled in "right"
Thanks for that discussion, guys. Brakes outta budget.
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
That's pretty much what I am shooting for after looking at how the professionals mounted the original end plates to this wing. Thanks. Although it's well documented that I'm no good with wood work, I also realized that I may be able to patch some more scrap pieces on to the plates to add width.
I had Guac out this afternoon for a little rip and some brake bedding. It needs an alignment badly but it's very fun and now I can see when I hit redline!
Speaking of the wing, I definitely need lock washers as it was forced into the fully down position from the pressure. At least we know it's getting some action back there.
The "livery" is done and I'm really trying to hold off for a little reveal at the Challenge but I'm not sure I can. More pressing is I have to figure out what number I am - MSR seems to indicate both 614 and 14.
I was in the basement looking for something else and came upon some MDF-type stuff that was part of the packing for a bathroom vanity we bought. It means I can make the end plates larger, still out of junk.
Alright. Both new end plates cut out. Not pictured in the correct orientation.
They are now about halfway painted. Another little job was to finish the wiring cover.
That's essentially the last of one of the sheets of aluminum I bought specifically to use on Guac so even though there's like 15 square inches left, I'll round up to the full $30. The 6 screws came off the car and the black stuff is rock solid vacuum line that was on top of the rolling tool box that sits next to the trash can. I'm guessing I missed when throwing it across the garage.
In reply to AxeHealey :
I believe lug studs and lug nuts are budget exempt safety items.
In reply to a_florida_man :
Thanks for that.
On to how the end plates will mount. Make a filler piece for one side out of scrap plywood.
Make an exact copy for the other side. Find out the wing isn't symmetrical, shape to fit. Mix some 3(?) year old two-part epoxy and stick them in there.
And, yeah, lag bolts that held together shelving in the garage when we bought the house go perfectly with a Trans-Am wing. Didn't you know?
In reply to AxeHealey :
if that open end of the rear of the foil ends up not covered by the end plate, don't sweat it... and just slap a sticker or electrical tape over the opening.
