The proportions of that are so right it makes me wonder why they even bothered to put a body on it.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:The proportions of that are so right it makes me wonder why they even bothered to put a body on it.
You're not wrong. Especially if i cut the front bumper mounts off.
Naskart has a certain ring to it....
More after shop is cleaned and Stafford1500 swings by to brain dump nascar chassis info on me tomorrow.
But step one is rolling and steering better.
Step two is cleaning up all the sharps and bare spots,with a bit of paint over everything.
Step three is locating the new pedal box, column, and seat.
I know it has no effect on how you're intending to use the car but I'm very curious about the history of this car. I can't quite correlate it with a specific generation of cup car but it's too old to be a #9 NAPA car. It could be one of Jerry Nadeau's #9 Cartoon Network cars. They were blue. Or, perhaps it was one Lake Speed's blue Spam cars. Or it could be build #9 of whoever built it in the first place or it could be one of the other #9 cars and the blue paint is a red herring.
The lack of any stampings has me curious. I'm wondering if there used to be some numbers stamped in the brown area of the diagonal bar on the right in this photo.
Then there are things like this
Clearly that bar wasn't welded in by a fabricator from any of the big shops. It was obviously added sometime after the car was originally built. Incidentally, that looks like a safety hazard to me. It's not holding the halo bar in place and it could get knocked out of place and driven through the driver in a wreck.
To be clear. I'm not bashing your toy. I think it's awesome and I'm jealous. I'm just intrigued by the mystery.
In reply to APEowner :
I don't take anything you said as bashing. And I completely agree that the history of the car is truly intriguing. Judging by the number of rivet holes I believe the car may have been re-bodied at least twice. I'm not sure what era it is from at all either, but would love to know. Now that the body is off and I can start to clean it up, I'm hoping I find some form of numbers or manufacturing marks. Regardless it's still going to be a super fun track rat no matter what its history is.
Steve came by today, and we figured out A LOT.
I have a newfound confidence in my purchase and plan.
I need to get correct truck arms, and the oarts to rebuild the floater. Bearings aren't that healthy on the ends, and there's a lot of metal shavings in there.
Looks like it shouldn't be terribly difficult to square up the chassis, or expensive.
The passenger's side bars that i wanted to remove for a passenger's seat are able to be done so safely.
My thoughts on how to do a lot of the details was accurate.
Im excited. I need to get more flap wheels.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Im excited. I need to get more flap wheels.
...and there's the early lead for "the most GRM thing I'll read this month".
Super excited for you and this build. Also fyi Amazon has really good pricing on flap discs.(also heard if you dip them in hot wax they last a lot longer though haven't tried it yet so be cautious if you do.)
In reply to OneSickGNX :
I. Not sure about the hot wax thing, but ive been ordering my flap wheels from Amazon for the last 100 discs or so. Finally found a brand that seems to last well and are inexpensive.
Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to OneSickGNX :
I. Not sure about the hot wax thing, but ive been ordering my flap wheels from Amazon for the last 100 discs or so. Finally found a brand that seems to last well and are inexpensive.
I've had good luck with flap discs from Benchmark Abrasives.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Steve came by today, and we figured out A LOT.
I have a newfound confidence in my purchase and plan.
I need to get correct truck arms, and the oarts to rebuild the floater. Bearings aren't that healthy on the ends, and there's a lot of metal shavings in there.
Looks like it shouldn't be terribly difficult to square up the chassis, or expensive.
The passenger's side bars that i wanted to remove for a passenger's seat are able to be done so safely.
My thoughts on how to do a lot of the details was accurate.
Im excited. I need to get more flap wheels.
Excellent!
I'm glad you're keeping the full floater. Anything else would be a downgrade.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
That's the first thing that rolls through my head looking a bare chassis: how to ax the bars to fit a passenger seat, and not turn the car into a noodle
my dewalt grinder doesnt make my arm and hand hurt and tingle nearly as bad or as quickly as my porter cable.
I wonder if its weight or hand position ?
Regardless, moving right along.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Now with less snags and room to move around it in the garage...
I spy a different LF upper control arm. Camber looking better now?
In reply to stafford1500 :
Oh my yes. Almost square to the other side via eyeball. Rolls WAY better now....
What's the linkage to the left of the steering shaft, mechanical clutch linkage?
How does one identify a square vs non-square chassis?
In reply to Brotus7 :
It is mechanical clutch linkage.
As far as checking for square: you call steve and show him a bunch of pictures!
What he said boiled down to: check wheelbase side to side. Look for difference between suspension points and framerails from center of car. See if tge longitudinal rails appear level and in plane with one another.
From what ive seen in a very limited tine and experience, the offset/not square is super obvious once you start looking. However, that may not be the case with everything.
Keep in mind, i dove headfirst into this project with minimal research or knowledge. It could have bitten me in the ass significantly, and until last night i knew nothing for certain and still had the voice of doubt in my head.
Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to OneSickGNX :
I. Not sure about the hot wax thing, but ive been ordering my flap wheels from Amazon for the last 100 discs or so. Finally found a brand that seems to last well and are inexpensive.
What brand are you using?
Great project by the way, look forward to watching it come together. I'd love to do something similar but there don't seem to be as many cheap race cars on the West coast - or I'm looking in the wrong places.
In reply to Racingsnake :
and if you Facebook, theres bound to be race cars and parts groups for your state. Also, street legal stock cars is a good one to join.
Damn that's cheap, even if they last 1/4 the time of the diablo ones that cost $5 each it's worth it
Need to add some of those to my next Amazon order. And to stop looking for used race cars on FB marketplace.
I got to meet ed higginbotham, jh36, and him today at hyperfest.
I need to plan to attend next year. Way too much awesome to miss
It was a good night! Have the steering box, and a used set of 255/60/15 tires for street/transit tires.
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