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tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
2/7/14 12:10 p.m.

I'm not sure I understand what the vertical piece (or the longitudinally oriented horizontal piece) are for. Couldn't they go under, or right next to, the engine with no issue?

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/7/14 12:22 p.m.

The longitudinal, horizontal pieces that run from the shoulder of the roll hoop back help triangulate the rear hoop diagonals, serve as a body panel mount and help support the drivetrain mounts and suspension mounts. The vertical piece was intended to end the rear structure of the car and provide a panel mount and a mount for the bolt on framework that will shape the rear of the car. the 1.5" square tube is probably overkill, but it's wide enough to have two rows of fasteners (for a body panel joint), and I had it on hand.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
2/7/14 1:17 p.m.

What I mean is: can't the whole back of the frame taper rearwards as you view it from above?

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/10/14 1:00 p.m.

In my car it does, the roll hoop is the widest point and the back tapers. The plans have the car staying the same width behind the roll hoop.

I had a snow day Friday, and used it and the weekend to finish bracing the subframe.

I also got part of the transmission mount finished last night.

The mount is made mostly from the original bracket, cut down and modified so that the bolt inserts from the other side.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/11/14 10:10 a.m.

I finished up the transmission mount last night. I am happy with how it turned out.

4cylndrfury
4cylndrfury MegaDork
2/11/14 10:34 a.m.

looks great!

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/11/14 12:30 p.m.

Thanks! The comments and feedback really help keep me motivated!

tuna55
tuna55 UltimaDork
2/11/14 12:40 p.m.

Slow down and give me time to catch up, please.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/12/14 1:07 p.m.

I started on the engine mount last night. It still needs some trimming, bracing and bolt holes but you get the general idea. The mount is designed to allow the engine to be removed from below by removing the center mount bolt, to allow the engine mount to be removed from above with the engine in place, and to keep the engine from dragging on the ground if for some reason the mount comes unbolted from the car.

4cylndrfury
4cylndrfury MegaDork
2/12/14 1:56 p.m.

What is this? More progress? This guy must have a pile of these laying around...

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/12/14 2:01 p.m.

No, I'm spending all my wooden nickels on this project.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/13/14 10:48 a.m.

The engine mount is pretty much done. It seems like I need to add some more bracing in the fore/aft direction. I will probably do something similar to the transmission mount, but I am open to suggestions.

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
2/13/14 11:19 a.m.

I would add some webbing going to the lower square tube on both ends rather than adding a whole pair of tubes, like this:

I also marked where I would drill some Speed Holes (for lightness)

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/13/14 11:26 a.m.

I like that idea. I wish I could add something similar to the other side, but the tube drops off too fast. I guess the "half pipe" under the mount adds some stiffness too. I thought of the speed holes after I had it tacked in place. I'll probably drill some when the engine is out for finish welding.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/13/14 4:21 p.m.

I just bought a Howe Reverse mount pedal set. A budget check and update shows I have $3,658.94 in the car now, and I still have a several parts from the donor car to sell. Remaining major parts to buy are shocks, intercooler, another seat, steering wheel and hub and gauges. I'm not quite making the challenge budget, but I could get close if I used a cheap set of wheels and did some budget trading on my Miata suspension parts...not that the car would be legal for the challenge anyway.

Ransom
Ransom GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
2/13/14 4:30 p.m.

That's awesome! That's an awful lot of car for that kind of money, not to mention the feeling of having built it... I've got two-part jealousy: One part for the car and one for the experience.

I almost wish I was insulating the garage this weekend instead of going to the coast with friends.

Almost.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/14/14 1:30 a.m.

I didn't do a whole lot on the car tonight. I added "Gameboy Gussets" to the engine mounts and made the diffuser tubes.

There is a car in there somewhere:

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/14/14 11:40 a.m.

I used Paint to start thinking about how to build the rear styling elements.

The green tubes are welded, structural tubes; the red are lighter, possibly bolt-on tubes. The V shape at the bottom is for a small trailer hitch if I want to pull a tire trailer.

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
2/14/14 12:49 p.m.

Love the sketches

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/14/14 2:21 p.m.

Another option that gets rid of the empty "trunk" space in the other drawing. I think I like the shorter rear. (Sir MixAlot need not apply).

Thoughts from the less stylistically challenged?

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
2/14/14 2:36 p.m.

Hey, I'm the guy that still thinks the bottom plane ought to taper rearwards, what do I know?

The shorter one looks better. yeah.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/14/14 2:42 p.m.

In reply to tuna55:

I'm still dense and not following you I guess. Here is what the floor shape looks like from above:

The very rear-most bit is the diffuser tubes that are sticking off the back in the picture. Tubes that form the rear side of the car are directly above the floor tubes.

ScreaminE
ScreaminE Reader
2/14/14 2:50 p.m.

The latter design seems to make the most sense for such a compact build. Definitely less wasted space. Also, this build is bad-ass.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/14/14 3:19 p.m.

Plan C:

A compromise between A and B?

tuna55
tuna55 PowerDork
2/14/14 3:22 p.m.

Nope, the one before.

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