I agree that it would look better with the wheels back in the opening a little bit. But it still looks good and must feel great!
I agree that it would look better with the wheels back in the opening a little bit. But it still looks good and must feel great!
This is really looking good. Agree with all the assessments, I would move it back 1/2 inch and go negative on the camber to help clear the tops of the wheel well trim. This is the really fun part of these projects is seeing your ideas become something real!
Looks good Patrick!
That looks mean! Nicely done.
Looking good!
AngryCorvair said:
I don’t hate it, but I think I’m going to move it back by 1/2”. This is ride height. It tucks about 1/4”, and I’m going to have to narrow / roll the top of the wheel arch.
Dissenting vote here.
Don't move it back. Since, it seems, you're going to trim anyway, angle the leading edge forward 10-15 degrees. Only a purist will notice the change.
If you move the wheel back, the centerline of the tire will be behind the centerline of the straight section above it. The forward radius will only make the move look awkward. (I know I didn't write that correctly, but I can "see" it.)
No matter what you do, it looks AWESOME!!! (I can only wish I had the time/talent/etc.)
I wouldn't move it back either unless that fixes a real problem. I think it looks fine here, I think moving it would be okay, but I think this is better + focus task bandwidth on bigger issues.
In reply to dimarra :
I like the way you’re thinking but you’re about 18 hours too late. After posting those pix, I cut the tacks and notched the unibody to accommodate the move rearward. Centering the wheel under the “flat” across the top of the wheel arch never entered my mind until you said it.
That's me. ...too late.
It'll look fantastic, no matter what. Heck, it already does!
I just wasn’t happy with the misalignment of the C4 frame section relative to the Corvair unibody rails...
so I punted that idea and am putting the Corvair rails back together. Had to take a conference call for work tonight so I didn’t get very far. Halfway through cleaning up drivers side. The lower piece I’m putting back in is held in place by some strong MF’ing magnets.
In the long run, I believe this will be less work than making and attaching all the patch pieces that would be required to provide a structurally sound union between the C4 frame section and the Corvair unibody. My goal will be to finish cleaning up the rest of the bits tomorrow night and get a few tacks in, so I can take them to work and weld them up on Wednesday, then start welding them into the Corvair on Wednesday night. I will fish-plate (i think that’s the correct term) the outboard sides, then notch the inboard sides to accommodate the vertical portions of the C4 crossmember. I will have room to add strength in X, Y, and Z once I have the crossmember in place.
IDK why, but I got hung up on the fact that keeping the C4 frame section meant I would keep the sway bar mounts and upper shock mounts, but adding these features to the Corvair unibody will be pretty simple. I was also thinking that having a removable crossmember would be cool, but that’s a dumb reason to add weight to a race car.
1 of 2 Corvair unibody rails mostly put back together:
Then worked up some fish-plates in CAD:
Cut with angle grinder, smoothed with flap disc, drilled with step bit, now need final cleanup before welding in place:
That’s where I quit for the night, as I had to help a neighbor with something. I’ll get back to it in the AM. With tomorrow’s update I might even let you in on a little secret.
In reply to AngryCorvair :
Have you given up on your hand modeling Gig?
October is rapidly approaching!
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Maybe he was having a bad hand day.
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Not every pic warrants the horns.
Welds are improving. Really happy with the learning curve so far, and having fun figuring things out along the way.
Drilled out some spot welds instead of using the death wheel. I love the smell of TapMatic in the morning.
Welds are looking better - particularly the ones on the left. I'm guessing those are last ones you did. Really work it side to side across the joint - zig zags.
Is that flux-core? If so, you can get "nozzle spray" from the welding supply shop (I admit that sounds dirty). That will keep the spatter from sticking and make clean-up a lot easier. Coincidentally, it makes for less slag on a plasma-cut sheet if you spray both size before hitting the "Robotic Fire" button.
In reply to TVR Scott :
Yes, flux core. Yes, left side was most recent. Thanks for the info on nozzle spray. I’ll grab some before I do much more. Gonna keep working a few more hours today, but dang it’s hot! Temp sensor says 91F at 5pm.
Flux core is ugly, but I've learned to weld air to water to rust with it.
If you can become a good welder with flux core, you can become an awesome welder with a better gas welder.
At least thats my experience!
Dusterbd13-michael said:Flux core is ugly, but I've learned to weld air to water to rust with it.
If you can become a good welder with flux core, you can become an awesome welder with a better gas welder.
At least thats my experience!
For sure. I've had my flux-core machine for about 20 years now and I think it's great. It's so portable and forgiving and simple. Plug and go. If you've got a rusty trailer that needs to be welded on in the wind, flux-core is the hot ticket.
Once you figure out set-up and get your technique dialed, they work just fine.
Angry, go for the frying-bacon sound. Hold that trigger down, and walk that bead along. Bacon!
In reply to TVR Scott :
When people are welding in my shop, I have been known to go up to the machine and make adjustments as they are welding until I get that sound that says the machine is happy.
Try it, just start laying a bead and have someone tweak the wire speed and or heat and listen to the noise while watching the bead; when you hit the sweet-spot, "the sound" is pretty obvious. The sound needs to be the same regardless of metal thickness.
Pete
In reply to AngryCorvair :
Yes! You've got it!
A few more specifics though. Set the voltage for your sheet thickness, then leave it alone.
Then set your wire speed. Too fast and the wire will hit the work before melting and will push the gun away. The arc will be sporadic. Too slow and the arc will blow the wire away before depositing anything. Just right and you'll get that perfect buzz. You'll only get it though if you hold that trigger down. Little baby tacks will never work right.
AngryCorvair said:In reply to TVR Scott :
You’re crowding the pan. Give them room to breath.
Looking for some more hand modeling now that the thread is back. 
It was either this or Aerosmith - Back In The Saddle
wait, what, you cut away the corvair frame rails, and now welding them back in? You know those rails are not made to hold an engine weight.
You'll need to log in to post.
