Heh i keep missing out on the ZKWs that pop up. 
Heh i keep missing out on the ZKWs that pop up.
I'm stealing your exhaust "system" idea and using it on the Daewoo as soon as I return to Korea. 
Telstar TX5 was turboed
Oh god that's pretty.
Well I'm not quite as far as you are Ben...lol. However I did make a big step today.... It did run on DiYPnP this afternoon! Not very well, but its a start! I'm stoked to see what the car is capable of. Its got mild port work via the previous owner, GT2871R Turbo, Colt Cam (Unverified), Megasquirt DIYPnP, 3"DP 2.5" exhaust, Ksport Kontrol Pro's. 2440lbs with full interior at present and a 3/4 tank of fuel.
This thread makes me miss my old 626gt.
Turns out Axxis Metal Master pads only last about 15-20k miles. I was a bit bummed, since i got those on closeouts from Stillen 2 years ago and wasn't sure if i could find more.
RockAuto has 'em right now. Front set for $20 shipped! SOLD.
Had a slight issue this morning of a really lean idle (18.5:1, it was stumbling) at a couple stoplights before the car reached full operating temps. This was the first time this ecu has been run on this car in temperatures below 85 degrees, and this did not happen previously before i fed it the narrowband o2 signal from the LC1.
My theories:
1) Need to just reset the ECU and clear the codes anyways, then it can "re-learn."
2) ECU immediately gets narrowband o2 signal from LC-1 with a faster warmup than stock. Stock o2 was a one wire unit with no heater. LC-1 is heated, maybe it's in "ready mode" sooner than stock ecu?
Only issue with #2 is that i'm pretty sure "warmup enrichment" is dictated by coolant temp, so i'm thinking #1 is more likely.
No problems at all once car reaches operating temps, so i'm not real worried about it. We're cruising cycling between 14.5:1 and 15.2:1 AFRs, idling in the high 14s, and as soon as you bury the gas, it dips quick down to 11.0:1 and climbs back up a little bit (bigger turbo than chip was designed for) maxing at 12.1:1.
I'm pretty happy with it. Gotta turn up the boost and see how it handles it though. ECU is supposedly mapped to 18-19psi, so i'm hoping the AFRs don't change much.
If I can't get my Megasquirt up and goin, I'll pull the ECU our of the Probe as well as the boost controller. At least that'll let me run elevated boost levels. Glad to hear you are gettin your car straightened out
In reply to mndsm:
Just saw the second pic. That's a gc chassis telstar. The gc 626 looks almost identical. More differences in the gd telstar vs. 626 imo.
In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:
open loop warmup is determined by the coolant temp sensor, which means it ignores the o2 signal until the coolant reaches a certain temp, so i'd look toward codes or bad signals from your coolant temp sensor, i think the one you want is the one with two wires, the others are single wire, one is for the fan, one is for the gauge (but i think only the probe got a gauge that wasn't just "cold/normal/REPLACE HEAD GASKET") and another i think that turns the a/c fan on if coolant temp goes over a certain temp, then the fourth (some had three, some had four) would be for the ecu i'm guessing.
once i thought the o2 sensor on my probe was acting up, so i drove home at lunch and swapped it out. so the ecu saw warm coolant, but the o2 was cold since it had just been changed. thing ran all crazy trying to figure out what to do until the sensor heated up, but then was fine.
Yeah i've been messing with the temp sensors as well trying to track down why my a/c fan circuit is actually the only one that's working. The main cooling fan circuit isn't functioning properly.
I've got a sensor/switch for 207 degrees and another for 226 degrees (according to FSM), then the one wire that goes to the gauge, and then the one that goes to ECU. So far i've been able to determine for sure that the gauge and the 226 sensors are functioning.
I'm not throwing any codes for bad coolant temp sensor, so i'd guess that the one going to the ECU is ok.
The one on the 207 circuit is the wildcard. If i take the connector off the sensor and ground it with ignition "ON," the fan doesn't kick on, but i can hear the relay click.
It's a bit confusing and electricity is like magic to me.
As for the AFR thing, i'll reset the ECU today or tomorrow and see what happens. Appreciate the help!
UGH.
4th radiator toast in less than three years.
Anyone have suggestions here? I'm sick of these piece of E36 M3 Spectra "Premium" radiators.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: UGH. 4th radiator toast in less than three years. Anyone have suggestions here? I'm sick of these piece of E36 M3 Spectra "Premium" radiators.
Is there a local radiator shop around you? You could ask about a custom radiator in aluminum or copper based around the stock dimensions. It will be more expensive, but should last quite a bit longer. If there is a non-plastic end tank version of that radiator available, even better as they can replace the core in a soldered radiator, not so much with a crimped plastic one.
Man that sucks!!! Maybe an alum. Replacement could be sourced? Also just got I touch with an old friend that's into Mazdas & Megasquirt, so maybe we can get the MX-3 up to snuff.
It's not even the plastic part that's dying. The core itself has leaked on EVERY one of these.
I don't have budget in the build for a fancy radiator, otherwise i'd just throw a Griffin in there. And i've spent $400 on these berkeleying Spectras over the last couple years.
You can have the old escort one back. Maybe it will fit!
garaithon wrote: You can have the old escort one back. Maybe it will fit!
Lol not so much. 
Ok, here's a fun question:
My factory radiator inlets and outlets are 1-3/8".
I found a radiator that i think will work, but it's 1-1/2" inlet, and 1-3/4" outlet.
How do i make this work?
Will that aluminum radiator i sent you the dimensions of fit?
EvanB wrote: Will that aluminum radiator i sent you the dimensions of fit?
Hrmmm... i really don't remember to be honest.
At this point i'm taking a long hard look at the thickest Civic half-width radiators i can find, or a huge 3" thick Griffin that i think i can tuck into the support for $160 shipped.
I need something with inlet on driver's top, outlet on passenger bottom, no taller than 16", no wider than 26", and as thick as possible.
Mine is passenger top, driver bottom so that wouldn't work.
Well, some good news. Rockauto will warranty the radiator. So i guess i'll do that, and order something actually good in the meantime as well. 
Did you get your fan switch sorted out? My suggestion would be to run your own fan controller that uses a radiator fin probe. You can get them for under $50 and program at what temp the fan comes on.
Sky_Render wrote: Did you get your fan switch sorted out? My suggestion would be to run your own fan controller that uses a radiator fin probe. You can get them for under $50 and program at what temp the fan comes on.
I did not get the fan switch sorted out. The plan is that if i go with a civic radiator, i'll use one of those, then block off the switched on the waterneck, and use my gauge sender in one of those instead of the hose adapter i have.
There's something funky with my circuit. Think i have a break in wiring somewhere.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:Sky_Render wrote: Did you get your fan switch sorted out? My suggestion would be to run your own fan controller that uses a radiator fin probe. You can get them for under $50 and program at what temp the fan comes on.I did not get the fan switch sorted out. The plan is that if i go with a civic radiator, i'll use one of those, then block off the switched on the waterneck, and use my gauge sender in one of those instead of the hose adapter i have. There's something funky with my circuit. Think i have a break in wiring somewhere.
Get a multimeter, disconnect the battery, remove the EMS, and check continuity and resistance of all circuits.
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