this is such a sick thread, excellent work! cannot wait to see it on the ground
Acquired a free AE86 power steering rack locally and i've been on the hunt for an AE86 crossmember to cut the rack mounts off of. The only problem is my unwillingness to pay $500 for that item alone. Perhaps Xcessive can assist.
Xcessive custom subframe with AE86 rack mounts, manual rack shown but its a matter of a different bushing to run the power rack.
Since I stumbled upon MR2 and RA64 racks in my collection I've already come up with a rough draft for the tie rods. Since my LCA's are shortened 20mm a shorter combination will be required. I speculate that using MR2 outer tie rods pictured below:
With RA64 inner tie rods:
Problem solved? The RA64 inner tie rods look comparable enough in length to the AE86 inner tie rods that I probably won't need to bother. I'll remove everything and compare but the first step is getting the rack mounted to the crossmember.
Yes! I had one in high school and have wanted another ever since (of course) and this one came up for cheap. It sat for a couple years, the previous owner removed the cylinder head and had it rebuilt but never got around to reinstalling. I purchased it and in 6 hours and 6 beers had it running. After that I put 3" blocks in the back and used a pair of rear ae86 springs cut down for the front along with a pair of free 40mm RCAs. Then I added my widened factory Toyota wheels. Completely stock 2tc and 5 speed. The previous owner went through it mechanically minus the engine so everything is good to go.
In reply to darkmedievaltimes :
It looks great. Will the 2tc happily cruise at ~ 70 mph? For a while I wanted an early rwd Mazda 626, but a friend who had owned one before described it as dangerously slow for merging onto the highway..
In reply to dannyp84 :
I drove it to Portland awhile ago the speedometer at 80-85 which I suspect is 70-75 actual speed. Wasn't bad at all, is it slow? Yeah definitely.
Trailing arm processing begins, M12 and M14 heim joints with weld tubes sourced as well as .75 x 1.5 .120 rectangle tube. This is roughly the end goal / what design i'm following:
Celebrated my birthday over the weekend and had a special visitor, @skipper_gibbs on his way back from North America Nonsuri. The front of the car was raised for the trip home.
1gge cylinder was dropped off with "oldskewltoy" a few weekends ago. I had the options of a completely stock rebuild, a rebuild with portwork, and then taking it further with cams etc. I've drawn a clear line in the sand of not going beyond the factory management system for the initial stage at least so I went with the 2nd "rebuild with portwork" option. What better way to fund such a project than loading up the wagon with parts to sell prior to dropping off the cylinder head?
No time was wasted cleaning it up. It was so full of filth and grime which is why the intake valves were stuck open.
The shop was in serious need of a cleaning and organizing. I was looking at my steering rack collection and am leaning towards the MA61 rack instead. Why? Because hell will freeze over before I pay $350 for the ae86 crossmember to rob steering rack mounts off of. I really want to use factory mounts with whatever rack I move forward with, I have the MA61 engine crossmember, rack, and steering column (not pictured). The widths appear to be the same between the MA61 and AE86 racks. Further investigating is required.
Test fit the big wheel on the TE27, this is a joke of course. Very few examples of a TE27 on wheels larger in diameter than 13" working actually exist and no, "I cAn'T fInD tIrEs" is not an excuse.
"Very few examples of a TE27 on wheels larger in diameter than 13" working actually exist and no, "I cAn'T fInD tIrEs" is not an excuse."
I still want to try and import some tires in good 14" sizes so that I'm not stuck with my 165/55s, but I had heard rumors that customs will destroy anything without a DOT stamp. I'd like to verify whether that's true before I sink any money into the endeavor. Also, I need to buy Hoosiers for my ITS RX-7, so the FB will have to make due with what it has for now, limited budget and all that. Your port design almost reminds me of a K24 port laid sideways, I'd be curious as to how well it flows in factory form - it looks fairly good but then I'm no expert.
In reply to dannyp84 :
I'm actually having Shockthemob import a set of Shibatire for me. Going with 195/45R14 and 225/40R14 380 treadwear. Here is a link to their website, pricing is reasonable and they have every size.
In reply to darkmedievaltimes :
I need to look up photos of the 175/60r14 on an 8j, that might be the sweet spot for me.
In reply to dannyp84 :
You can find a few different options for 175/60R14. Will be great on 8j, 1/2" of stretch per side.
Here's what the 165/55 looks like on the 8j:
it's a little bit too low profile for my liking, but then a 185/55 usually rubs, which was typically the next available size up. I might've gotten a bit carried away when I chose lip sizes..
Work began on the 1GG head after I got it back from cleaning. As darkmedievaltimes mentioned, "It was so full of filth and grime", that is a bit of an understatement. It appears that this engine was last run on old gas. To make a long story short the varnish glued ALL the intake valves into their guides. You can see as much.
The intake ports appeared to be coated in obsidian. On the first cleaning, there were 3 in total, the valves dropped out, and by the third the intake ports were clear.
Now back, the port work begins. As this will, for now be running stock cams, and only moderately bumped compression, focus is on maximizing the heads efficiency.
Valves are measured....
Intake.....
and exhaust....
Yes, those are small valves!
A bit of math.... 86% of 28mm = 24.08mm, and 86% of 23.5mm, is 20.21mm. Why 86% for the throat, simple really, the goal is to keep port velocity high, while still yielding more volume. Throat to valve percentage typically ranges from 85%, to 90+%
The intake throat before, and after....
And the exhaust throat.....
times 12........
more to come......
dannyp84 said:What's a core shift?
simple answer - when the casting material is mis-aligned causing the final casting to be mis aligned.
Top half of 2 panel is a good example of poor casting alignment, lower half is after fixing
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