A little bit of work today on the rear end bearing carriers. The bolts for the parking brake bracket all snapped off.
Drilling out the bad stud:
Helicoils in:
And bracket test-fitted:
The threads on one were still pretty good, so I chased the threads. I may still do the helicoils.
The other was a lot worse, and needed both done. I didn't get the centering perfect, but used the bracket to line up the second hole. So everything fit fine.
I see the date on that upright (bearing carrier) is 10-72. Is the other the same? Seems about right for a '73. They look very nice and shiny... how did you get that finish? Did you clear-coat too?
Stu Lasswell said:I see the date on that upright (bearing carrier) is 10-72. Is the other the same? Seems about right for a '73. They look very nice and shiny... how did you get that finish? Did you clear-coat too?
No clearcoat yet. These were blasted and then I used a fine stainless steel wire cup-brush to shine them up. Gotta think about protective coatings.
I think all the wheel painting is done for now:
Two coats on the drums and insides, and I just hit the outsides. I think I'll let them sit inside today, out in the sun tomorrow, and then drop them off at Discount tomorrow afternoon.
They're totally not perfect at all, but they're photographing well. I'll take what I can get!
At first glance, I thought you painted the inside of the open holes blue. That would be interesting if the rest of the car were blue. That's a lot of work, but they will look great on the car.
Just remember: we, as the builders, know where every single flaw on the entire vehicle is.
Every guy at a car show will find one, but not all.
Every kid at a car show wont see any
From the drivers seat, the wheels are MINT, and with a touch of brake dust and road grime will be flawless.
Cool to see the progress! Wheels came out nice.
keep it up!
These really do look good in the pictures and add some originality and uniqueness to the car.
This stub axle is still fighting me. Just ran it by the local mechanic and they didn't succeed. Just mushroomed it a little more.
I tried heat, penetrating oil, and BFH. Find a place with a bigger press?
The other one just popped right out.
Dumb :question: why are you pulling it apart?
Something that worked for me when taking a Miata hub off was to use the air chisel with a blunt tool and pointed at the dimple in the middle of the stub axle. Pretty sure it was the vibration that did the job and not so much the pushing force.
Another trick is to load it up in the press with a bunch of force and then whack the side of the casting with a serious mini sledge.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Hrm... How B was the BFH? At this point I'd be thinking full size sledgehammer in combo with heat and oil or wax, naturally with the upright appropriately supported in a piece of suitably closely-sized pipe.
If that's already covered by your "heat, penetrating oil, and BFH," then... penetrating oil in an ultrasonic cleaner?
I've never used the hot-part/wicking-wax trick, but maybe it's enough different? I'm also not sure the ultrasonic cleaner action would actually cause more penetration. IIRC there's some amount of "line of sight" thing going on there, at least for ideal action, so who knows what it'll do down in that fit.
I don't love the idea of throwing weights around a press, but what about the opposing-hammers (or hammer-and-bucking-bar) ball joint trick while it's under pressure? Just trying to give it that momentary deformation while it's under enough pressure to move it during that instantaneous unsticking? EDIT: I feel a little better with NOHOME suggesting similar...
NOHOME said:Another trick is to load it up in the press with a bunch of force and then whack the side of the casting with a serious mini sledge.
I just talked to the guy at Sports Car Craftsmen and he said the same thing. I may run it by there and have them take a go at it.
Worst case, he says they'd likely have a replacement part in stock if the vertical link gets destroyed in the process.
Duster - I've got upgraded axles from Good Parts that will replace these.
JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) said:At first glance, I thought you painted the inside of the open holes blue. That would be interesting if the rest of the car were blue. That's a lot of work, but they will look great on the car.
I did the same. The wheels already look great, that would take it up a whole 'nother notch
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Dumb :question: why are you pulling it apart?
It appears the threaded end is all mushroomed, and therefore should be replaced. :D
Mezzanine said:Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Dumb :question: why are you pulling it apart?
It appears the threaded end is all mushroomed, and therefore should be replaced. :D
Stupid previous owners. It was like that when I took the nut off...
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:NOHOME said:Another trick is to load it up in the press with a bunch of force and then whack the side of the casting with a serious mini sledge.
I just talked to the guy at Sports Car Craftsmen and he said the same thing. I may run it by there and have them take a go at it.
Worst case, he says they'd likely have a replacement part in stock if the vertical link gets destroyed in the process.
Duster - I've got upgraded axles from Good Parts that will replace these.
What NOHOME suggested usually works for me. Oil, heat, pressure, whack - rinse and repeat. The three sets of TR6 stub axles I've done came apart using just a puller. That one may have been over-torqued or some rust got in there.
Before the move to Colorado, I had a tub of suspension parts. It's times like this when I wish I had kept it.
Got it! Big-big-fh to the rescue!
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Glad you got it apart. If you hadn't, as I had mentioned in my build, I picked up an entire front end, so I could have sent you a replacement. Possibly in questionable condition, probably just rusty. Then again, no doubt you could find one much closer, as they're not exactly rare.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Stu, I had you and your fabulously smashed TR-6 chuck in mind all day yesterday. Thanks for having my back!
Can you answer me a question - since you just took that front end stuff apart? Which vertical link has the right-hand thread and which is left-handed. I'm talking about the big acme-thread that goes into the bronze pivot at the bottom.
Or maybe Joe or someone else knows?
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Dumb :question: why are you pulling it apart?
It's a triumph thing.... the stock spindles are weak and flex under hard braking. Several vendors have upgraded replacements so worth getting out the BFH 
I'll be doing the same thing later this year,so thanks for the details as I am sure one has to be stuck after 50+ years of being together.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Stu, I had you and your fabulously smashed TR-6 chuck in mind all day yesterday. Thanks for having my back!
Can you answer me a question - since you just took that front end stuff apart? Which vertical link has the right-hand thread and which is left-handed. I'm talking about the big acme-thread that goes into the bronze pivot at the bottom.
Or maybe Joe or someone else knows?
My stock trunnions have LH and RH on the casting.
I'll look closer.
TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) said:Got it! Big-big-fh to the rescue!
I would have found a way to smash the trunnion threads. Good job.
As far as I can tell, the left-hand thread goes on the left side and the RH thread on the right side. That's from sketchy pics on the Moss Motors website.
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