my 1984 Alfa Romeo spider

Doing some thinking  here at work. Going to add to the corners,some sheet aluminum,about 3 inch  triangle  on each side, to strengthen the  fiberglass  hood,from wear any year. Cut aluminum  triangle to shape, drill a few holes, sand surface with 80 grit paper, the glass it in, under  a few layers of fiberglass.i also bought some balsa wood strip, I will let resin soak into then,while they are bent to shape on the mold, after they have sucked up all the resin  they need, fiberglass the balsa wood strip  to the hood. This should  increase  stiffness to bending and twisting.

In reply to buzzboy :Took a few  trys...lol

Don't want to use hood pins. Trying to use oem hinge and catch. Don't want boy racer look,  like to keep it a sleeper 

Not too sure on fiberglassing in the hinge and rear locking mechagnism  mounts.

 Perhaps  using a large sheet of aluminum  to mount the parts,on the front hinge  mount both to thin aluminum pate,that places both  sections to it. Then use  black urethane bonding, this would work well. I would still some holes in the plate,and sand with 80 grit at 90 degrees, to provide  a better stick area. Similar. Stuff works great for sticking the windshield and rear glass to my car 

Then do the same for the rear hood lock, bond some across the width  of the rear of the hood corner to corner for max grip

had to add a little glass on the nose, will trim later. Bought some balsa wood strip to  glass into the hood for stiffness.will saturate the balsa wood in resin, bend to shape,then. , glass to hood

Head work..might do just a little more on the exhaust system bowls behind the valves are well shaped, just need to work on the combined area ,were the the flow meets up

Intake is done

Template for the clutch slave cly. Concentric slave..so much fun on a 104 degree day,on back porch

.mare out of plywood, easy to shape.

Sometimes you can measure all you want to.then sometimes you need a visual look to make sure that it will work. Could not find any help with the concentric slave cly mount designed. So...

Decided to use a electric water pump for the spider, easy to install,Davis Craig water pump..i am removing the balance shafts, this way I can also remove the chain drive. Will take impeller off the pump. .pump has a 7000 hour lifespan,tested.

been busy.. got dash in bacis form, nt making insterment cover, and got the clutch figgered out, the exhaust ports have been cleaned up alot. photos on that later, i am useing a friction disk from a 81 jeep cj5,, is has no button on top of the disk, gives me 4 mm of room i need.well be posting more phots in few days

i ground off the centre button on the old disk to get the clearence i needed. motor is built.. 10.5/1 compression, 2.4 intake manifold on the 2.2 ecotec engine, conical valve springs seat pressure of 98 lbs, 2.2 throttle body on a cbm motorsports adapter. enlarged ports intake and exhaust, have ecu reprogrammed,, etc.. 208 hp at 6800 rpm, 188 ft/lbs tq at 4300 rpm, but i have  143 at the least from 1200 rpm to redline, so a nice tq'y engine, and larger injectors, and spun metal cat, to keep it clean.and also set the engine back a long way from oem set up, no.2 cly now centres along the front axle centre line, getting close to mid engine :) 70% of the weight of the set up will be behined the front axle centerline,, should make for mush better handling

i have cleaned up the exhaust ports, and matched them to the gasket, cant fine the photos right now, well post when i find them

a false build, just the block, crank and flywheel to set up the concentric slave cly

test paint of driver rear body..

installed all 16 valves, springs have been shimmed .020 to increase seat pressure to 89 pounds.. and those 32 evil tiny keepers, so much fun to install, vinton valve stem seals

installed balance shaft delete bushes    installing the bushes was fun. even freezing them to 70 below zero, and light coat of oil on the bearings in the block, still had to hammer them in.

the lower exhaust downpipe.. had a brain fart,, welded it upside down, had to cut and re weld them the correst way

grinding and sanding down the welds to look better.. not easy to do...more later

some how lost the main bearings. ordered them monday here on wensday $28.99..new water pump here mond also friction disck on monday.. must take friction disk to machine shop to take 3 mm off the centre button. not easy stuffing a l61 ecotec engine into a spider... the engine ( most of it will be pushed back as far as i can to get the engine close to mid engine / front  mount as i can. my freind down under PSK recommeded it.. transmission is canted over 10 degrees to the driver for better shifting. and to help clear the the speedo  sender.  the motor mounts are going to be porsche 911 type or a mount that i saw on youtube ( ferrari engine into a alfa romeo ) the transmisson mount it energy suspensions poly mount, but i need to make the frame of the mount to compensate for the 10 degrees of tilt .

my calipers  front and rear...ro make your car go faster///put bigger brakes on,, the rotors are 12.19 vented disk front and rear. from speedway motors.. 2 part brakes rotors hat  plus rotor

con rods before i install them into the engine..had them magnafluxed before i started to polished them out.. these a powered forged rods here they are after polish/

balance shaft delete, i need the balance shaft pulleys to run the water pump, but dont need the balance shafts.,,. so cut them off, dont need the power steering so cut the camshaft end off ( per cbm motorsports )

engine mount plates  1/8 steel   will cut to size