cdchris12 said:
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Nah, The ECU can't drive the same signal that an ignitor would put out, no matter what I change in the ECU's settings. I already tried changing the resistor on the tach itself, to no avail. There's a part of me that wonders if I even have the right damn wire (despite the color and position matching exactly what the diagram said it should be)
A pull up resistor circuit is used exactly because the ecu signal isn't "strong enough". I had to use one when I was using a gm ecu in my mazda.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
I tore into the tach signal coming from the ECU, and you're right; I needed a pullup resistor to make the tach work. That said, a pullup resistor would not solve my A/C issue, as I'd need to similarly modify the A/C computer to accept that different type of signal.
I'll have the tach adpater in hand tomorrow morning, so I'll be in a good spot to test things out. I'm SUPER hopeful this makes the A/C work, because it's been hot af here!
Well, the tach adapter was an absolute bust. I didn't even hook up the signal wires, just spliced into +12V and GND, and the damn thing started smoking like it was gonna catch fire! The parts store was easy to deal with, and they will have me a replacement in hand tomorrow morning.
I did a fair bit more work today:
- I figured out the boost controller issue; it was hooked to GND, with the solenoid expecting a high signal from the ECU. This was backwards, so I swapped GND for +12V switched, and the EBCS now works when tested.
- I raised the front of the car another 10mm, as I'm tired of scrubbing every time I hit a bump. I may have to look into rolling the fenders if I still need more room, as there can't be much more thread left on these coilovers.
- I replaced the E36 M3ty splices on the passenger side speaker, so it works reliably now.
- I found a pretty real oil leak coming from the valve covers on the driver's side. I guess the valve cover bolts must've loosened up with some heat cycles, so I torqued them all back to hand tight.
- I found another oil leak coming from the oil cooler lines at the block, so I tightened them as best I could. It's tight quarters in there, so I may have to do some magic to get access to those.
- I've noticed a very real ticking noise coming from the number 5 cylinder's intake side, with a stumble at idle. I'm scared it could potentially be a bent valve. I'll have to do a compression test at some point to rule that out. It wouldn't be the end of the world if I had to remove the head, but it would be annoying, for sure.
Maybe I should've paid more attention to that oscilliscope, as I wasn't getting any sort of waveform at the tachometer. I was using a spare injector output to drive the tach, which don't work. I switched to a regular aux out, and I now have a 12v waveform now.
A few updates on the car from yesterday's work:
- The valve tick appears to be a cam follower with lash at the maximum end of OEM spec
- The weird rattling noise I've been hearing is not rod knock, but actually the hydraulic throwout bearing rattling against the clutch teeth. Apparently, my measurements were quite a bit off there. I'll get my transmission guy to do those adjustments when he installs the new gears in the transmission in September.
- A compression test shows ~120 PSI (cold) on all cylinders except 5, which is about 112 PSI. This is most probably explained by the extra lash in that cylinder's valves.
- The tach now works, as does the A/C request system. It's so nice to drive around with the A/C on on these hot days :)
- There is a pretty nasty oil leak that I need to find and fix. I _think_ the oil filter relocation block is leaking, but that has the oil pressure sensor preventing it from spinning any farther. I will probably extend that part of the harness to put the oil pressure sensor on the remote side of the oil filter relocation bits the next time I'm in there working on things. I may also have to remove the oil cooler lines from the block adapter if I have to spin that adapter much more than half a turn or so. That sounds easy, but there's almost no room to turn those damn AN fittings when things are in the car.
Doesn't the center part of the filter adapter turn independently of the outside?
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
That's right, it does. iirc, it bottoms out on either the adapter or the block at some point though. I can see a leak coming from the bottom of the filter relocation block, so I'm assuming it just needs to be a bit tighter against the block, which the oil pressure sensor is preventing from happening currently.
Well, it's been a couple of months, and some fun things have happened :)
Firstly, I got the car tuned on September 9th down in South Dakota. That was a LONG day, with a 5 hour drive each way, plus 11 hours of work and tuning on the dyno. I'm happy to report that the car made 496 HP and 436 FtLbs on 91 pump gas. Once we dialed it in a bit and put some ethanol in the tank, she made 608 HP and 529 FtLbs on about E70. I had planned to tune it on straight ethanol (E98), but we're hitting 90% DC on the 1500cc injectors at this power level, with ignition cut set at 95% DC.
I was featured on the tuning shop's Instagram account here, too: https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_vdKEexUKX/
I'm pretty happy with the driveability at this power level, but the boost kicks in a bit late for my taste. I'm thinking I'll probably look at upgrading the rather old turbo next year. I'm thinking a G40-900 would probably be a good fit for my power goals, and it'll flow a LOT better than the T04z I've got now. I'd probably also go to 2200cc injectors at the same time as well. That should let me easily and safely get to the ~800 hp mark at the wheels.
The transmission is currently out sitting on a bench, waiting on parts from SpeedTek Racing that should've been included but weren't. I've been emailing and calling them every day for three weeks, and they keep giving me bullE36 M3 promises on when they will ship said parts. Currently they're saying they'll ship them this coming Monday, but I have serious doubts. I love how the good weather is wasting away while they jerk me around waiting on these parts.
I've also got quite the audio setup ready to go into the car, along with a small mountain of other various parts. Those will be mostly winter projects, so expect to see more information on those as the Winter progresses.
Hmmm... Not sure why the link to that Instagram post doesn't work, but here's the reel in question: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qwqdj3T4QJnY8HjJ9
I hope Speedtek comes through for you. I really wanted to pull the trigger on their GTS-R style manifold but I havnt heard good things about their customer service.
shame because the manifolds are beautiful. https://speedtekautoracing.com/products/nissan-skyline-stainless-steel-low-mount-exhaust-manifold-r31-r32-r33-r34-gtst
Nice work on the 3D printed bits too. You're making me wish I went with the ECUMaster Black instead of the classic. The classic doesn't support E throttle and I never thought about cruise control as an application for that.
-Jordie
In reply to R32Jordie :
Honestly, I don't have much choice but to keep hounding them at this point. Nobody else makes the 1 -> 2 hub I am missing, unfortunately. Just my $2, but I'd be real wary ordering from them. They said originally that my trans parts would take 2-3 weeks to be shipped, but the reality was more like 2-3 months. Even after they finally arrived, they were missing parts (which I even paid extra for, no less). Nobody answers the phone there anymore either. When I first made my purchase, they were really friendly and answered a bunch of questions before they even made the sale. Once they had my money, it's just like their customer service evaporated.
About the E-throttle... If I'm being honest, there are days where I miss the old cable setup. Trying to get this thing started at first was quite the gong show, mostly because I didn't understand how all the various bits in Link's software played together to calculate final throttle blade opening percentage. Even my tuner had a bit of difficulty getting the idle settings correct with the e-throttle. Having digital cruise is pretty neat, but it doesn't like the car bucking at all; it'll quickly get into a loop where the bucking will increase exponentially. On the highway though, it's a lifesaver.
SpeedTek said they shipped the missing parts today (finally). They didn't give me a tracking number tho, so... Who knows if and/or when I'll receive them.
This weekend, I replaced the dipstick (again) and replaced the rear door speakers. I tried to replace the front door speakers, but the new speakers' baskets are MUCH too large to fit the hole in the door. I'm gonna chat with my parts guy tomorrow and see what else he can get me that will fit the bill for my front speakers.
I finally broke out the traces I got from a fellow Marine a while back for the trunk floorboards. Judging by the looks of things, those are originally fairly contoured, so I'm going to have to design and print some supports to make those work as intended. I'll probably go sometime this week and buy some plywood to make these out of. My hope is to mount the amp on the right side panel, figure out how to make the middle panel work, and figure out how to create a left panel that fits around the Optima yellowtop in the trunk.
I'm making slow progress on planning out the fusebox relocation in the glove box as well. It's kind of a pain figuring out where all these different lines go, and which I can safely remove (if any). I've also got a stack of actual OFC wire waiting to go in and replace the garbage CCA wire I didn't even realize I was using. I've got a buddy coming over on Thursday evening to help me pull the old CCA extension wires out, tuck the OEM wiring in the engine bay, and pull new OFC extension wires into the cabin.
I _finally_ have a tracking number from SpeedTek... That was generated about 30 minutes ago. It has now been an entire month, to the day, that I've been trying to get these parts shipped. They're quite mad that I filed a chargeback against them, but they really didn't leave me much choice.
For all those following along at home, please don't buy parts from this company, unless you enjoy being jerked around and outright lied to.
