My '96 F-150 Kinda Build Thread

I'll be getting shackles too. I may just see if I can get the whole rear end from the yard, esp. if it is a LSD :)

I was under the impression that the rear tank needed to be removed to do the hangers/shackles easier. I do believe it's POSSIBLE without removing it though.

Unfortunately, I had a family member/mechanic do my rear tank AND spring hangers at the same time so I'm not too sure.

I have a '95 Flareside 150 that I'm working on. Best trucks on the road IMO!

I ended up ordering 2 new rear shackle and hanger kits from Amazon (prime). New bolts, bushings, shackles, and hangers for $85. Hopefully I'll get them in sometime next weekend. Still hitting a local pick-n-pull or 2 this weekend. I want to see if I can find a trailer brake controller harness and the tow package harness and maybe a radiator from an HD truck.

So the next big ticket item on the truck to do is exhaust manifold gaskets. I already know I have one broken stud. I've been periodically spraying penetrating oil on the studs when the engine is cold(man does that stink), and driving around for a while afterwords.

Any tips to minimize chances of breaking off a stud in the head? And if I do happen to break a stud, how do I get it out if it happens to break flush with the head? I won't be doing this job for a few weeks though, so I have some time to prepare.

Thanks!

Heat the block surrounding the stud then blast the stud with that freeze stuff in a can?

OK. Bumping this thread up since I have a new issue now.

Just as I was turning into the driveway of my office, the truck flat died. Wouldn't start, just cranked. Long story short, I flipped the tank selector switch and it fired up.

Question is: Is this a bad switch (doubtful since it switched tanks for me), bad front tank fuel pump, bad wiring somewhere? What is the easiest way to diagnose a bad pump vs. wiring. I pretty much have to drop the tank to get to the wiring connector I think.

Follow up question. If the pump is bad, are there any brands to avoid? I don't want to shell out $300 for a Motorcraft if I don't have to.

Thanks!

best way to check wiring is with an ohm meter. or hook an old light bulb up to the two wires at the pump and see if it lights up

napa has carter, bosch and delphi fuel pumps, all good brands

i'd bet on a bad pump

I'm betting on a bad pump too. Bought a Denso from Amazon. If it's wiring, I'll probably swap the pump anyway. Almost 200k miles and most likely original.

Swapped the fuel pump out last weekend. That was it. Not a fun job when the tank is still full. At least I used a floor jack to do most of the lifting. However, when I went to refuel, No fuel would go in. GO to the rear tank and it filled up fine. I should have known better. I had a hard time putting the filler neck tube back on the tank. I kinked the inner tube. SO last night I had to take the tank most of the way down again (much easier empty)and took out the filler tubes. Got it buttoned up and full of fuel in 45 min. Back to full strength.

My rear tank is new, my front tank has a leak so it's empty.

The only other issue with the tanks is the selector valve malfunctions and causes one tank to fill the other.

so you dropped the tanks for service (versus lifting the bed)

I have an 86, and my tank switch appears to be functioning (the gauge on the dash will change when I switch tanks, the gauge for the rear tank reads near empty.) but my rear tank will not fill, exactly like you described, no gas will go into the tank the neck just overflows. I havent really looked into it yet just been using the front tank.

In reply to failboat:

Yeah, I dropped the tanks. There is nothing in the way for the front tank. Have new straps on hand though and some bolts. I changed the tank when I bought the truck and the bolts snapped and the straps were rusted badly. I haven't needed to touch the rear tank...yet. More stuff needs to come out of the way for that one. But mine isn't leaking, but the pump is getting noisy. If I do end up doing that one, I'm going to swap the tank and pump.