my 1932 datsun replica build

I don't know for sure if you have made a final decision on the wheels you'll use but google Chrysler artillery wheels and see what you think.

Graefin10 wrote: I don't know for sure if you have made a final decision on the wheels you'll use but google Chrysler artillery wheels and see what you think.

Like these? They have a lot of promise.

Those would look pretty good with the centers painted tan like the original car, but may have to wait until after the challenge when I can convert one end of the car so everything matches

The problem that I have is that I have a dakota front clip (i.e. five lug) on the front and an 810 rear axle (i.e. four lug) in the rear. For now, that will probably leave me using stock dodge in the front and stock datsun in the rear. [If budget allows, I may put moon hubcaps over them during the contours to hide this fact.] Down the road, I'd like to try and convert either the front or the back so that they match. Of course, lots of street rods don't match:

I just added some plate to the chassis so that there's plenty of room to add the diagonals for the roll bar.

Now I just have to decide what I'm going to do about the roll bar. BTW, it just dawned on me....how do t-bucket guys like the one above handle three or four point harnesses? Do they just use lap belts? If they have some clever method of mounting a three-point, I might be able to use that instead of a roll bar.....which would make the chassis plates I just put in useless.

JoeyM wrote: BTW, it just dawned on me....how do t-bucket guys like the one above handle three or four point harnesses? Do they just use lap belts?

All the T-bucket guys I've met use no belts whatsoever. They don't wear helmets on their choppers either. And usually they do have one of each.

The no-belts idea? Meh. That's legal for a 1932 datsun replica, but I'm not wanting to go there.

I'd like to use at least three points.....my idea is that the shoulder belt could mount to an oversize triangle gusset plate between the main hoop and the diagonal. If I change my mind and decide to go with four points....well, the spreader/harness bar of the roll bar will already be there.

I like the ford artillery wheels better

Could you get either the front or rearhubs redrilled?

Wally wrote: I like the ford artillery wheels better Could you get either the front or rearhubs redrilled?

Oooh!!! Those are NICE....very reminiscent of the original car's wheels. (see above)

I'll look into the redrilling option. (Never heard about it before.)

JoeyM wrote: The no-belts idea? Meh. That's legal for a 1932 datsun replica, but I'm not wanting to go there. I'd like to use at least three points.....my idea is that the shoulder belt could mount to an oversize triangle gusset plate between the main hoop and the diagonal. If I change my mind and decide to go with four points....well, the spreader/harness bar of the roll bar will already be there.

Seems like most of the 3-point systems I've ever had were actually long belts that came out of the retractor on the floor, through a loop on the B-pillar, and had the fixed end mounted down at the base of the seat (same side as the belt reel. The belt has the tang on a slider, and there's a locking receptacle on the other side of the seat.

If your hoop is going up over the front seats, shouldn't you be able to simply make a threaded hole for the "B-pillar" loop? or even weld one there, if you don't think a bolt would hold in your tubing.

Of course, welding the loop up there without scorching the belt material would be a PITA..

EDIT: should read "..threaded hole for the bolt that holds the B-pillar loop.."

looking good.

i was taking apart an old air conditioner the other day and thought "hey this curved access panel will come in handy one day" and kept it.

i run lap belts in the 54 versus the original no belts, i guess it's safer than eating the steel dash.

JoeyM wrote: BTW, it just dawned on me....how do t-bucket guys like the one above handle three or four point harnesses? Do they just use lap belts? If they have some clever method of mounting a three-point, I might be able to use that instead of a roll bar.....which would make the chassis plates I just put in useless.

You mean the same T-bucket guys who frequently have over-powered blown V-8 engines and NO front brakes??

They are often perfectly happy with nothing. That way they don't have to worry about being maimed if they are ever in an accident.

friedgreencorrado wrote:

JoeyM wrote: my idea is that the shoulder belt could mount to an oversize triangle gusset plate between the main hoop and the diagonal.

Seems like most of the 3-point systems I've ever had were actually long belts that came out of the retractor on the floor, through a loop on the B-pillar, and had the fixed end mounted down at the base of the seat (same side as the belt reel.

That's a much better description. You're right. I will probably put the retractors near the floor

friedgreencorrado wrote: If your hoop is going up over the front seats, shouldn't you be able to simply make a threaded hole for the "B-pillar" loop?

Yes, but I'd rather have it mount in the "gusset" [quotes because it will be bigger than a gusset needs to be so that it can do double duty] than in the tube.

SVreX wrote:

JoeyM wrote: how do t-bucket guys like the one above handle three or four point harnesses?

You mean the same T-bucket guys who frequently have over-powered blown V-8 engines and NO front brakes?? They are often perfectly happy with nothing. That way they don't have to worry about being maimed if they are ever in an accident.

I guess I don't get to be one of the cool kids because
1) I am not looking to die quickly
2) I have to pass tech

JoeyM wrote: I guess I don't get to be one of the cool kids because 1) I am not looking to die quickly 2) I have to pass tech

oh come on you know you want a 700hp 8-71 blown injected big block in a 2000# car with no front brakes and no seatbelts.

The front brakes are useless with those little tires anyway These guys were helpful when we put belts in my friends old Ford http://www.seatbeltstore.com/category-s/2.htm

Wally wrote: The front brakes are useless with those little tires anyway These guys were helpful when we put belts in my friends old Ford http://www.seatbeltstore.com/category-s/2.htm

Thanks, Wally. I'll definitely check them out.

BTW, has anybody used wheel adapters to change a bolt pattern?

http://www.airbagit.com/4-Lug-To-5-Lug-Wheel-Adapters-s/1575.htm

i have purchased 3 or 4 sets of wheel adapters off ebay from whoever had them cheapest at the time with great success. i know one of the sellers was "wheeladapters"

i used them to put mustang wheels on my huge caddy land yacht and they held up fine, and the others i bought held fine on my crown vic.

Good to know. Do they change the track, moving the wheels outward a bit like a wheel spacer? (If so, this makes it an easy choice....the back axle is a bit narrower than it should be, and this could solve two issues at once)

yes. they will come in 1", 1.25", 1.5", etc...

fitted some sheet metal to cover the corners of the back of the car

side from a freezer

The sheet metal for the corners is fitted, but I cannot put it in place until the roll bar diagonals are welded to those plates.

..worked on the bottom of the windshield frame.

Dad came over and helped me trim the lower windshield frame and hold it in place while tacking it. After that he took some pics of me welding. I added a 1/2 inch strip above the curved angle iron to approximate the windshield frame on the real 1932 datsun.

I still need to cut some triangular filler pieces to complete the look

Epic build thread is still epic.

Thanks for the kind words. They're appreciated.

the ~47" wide span at the bottom of the windshield is welded together - from both sides - across the entire length. That seam has been ground flat and pretty from both sides. The triangular filler pieces have been cut and welded in place, but are not yet ground. with a few minutes grinding, the lower surface of the windshield frame will be complete..

photos later