Blunder
Blunder
5/3/18 10:30 p.m.

Joined this forum for the knowledge and starting this build thread to hopefully motivate me to finish this ls swap. I started it 3 years ago and it has made it exactly almost no where. The car is a 1993 mustang. It's reef blue, a one year only color. It's not a rare color but I really like it.  I bought this car when I was 18 and sold it to my dad when I was 20. Now 14 years later and it's back with me. It was the first mustang I ever owned and I'm really glad it's still around. I traded my 35k mile 1995 f150 with my dad for the mustang. 

Here it is being towed from my parents house to mine. You can see my first problem if you look at how high the front end is. I'm using a 96 k member with fox control arms and springs. Even with the motor in it is sitting really high in the front and I have no idea why. I was under the impression I could use the 4.6 k member with the fox body springs and arms. Please help grassroots!

 

 

Currently just the motor is in the car. I used 4.6 motor mounts with adapter plates. I would like to get the car back on its front wheels but I'm having the previously mentioned problem with the springs. I compressed the springs and attempted to install them. It was tough just getting the springs in place and once they were in I attempted to use a jack to raise the control arm so I could attach the shock to the spindle and when I did the control arm raised slight before the whole car would start to raise with the jack. Lots of smart people here. Thoughts? 

codrus
codrus GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
5/3/18 11:52 p.m.
Blunder
Blunder New Reader
5/4/18 3:32 a.m.

I tried this set first the first time. It would compress the springs but once they were in place there was not enough room to get a wrench or impact gun in there to loosen and remove them. 

You can see the control arm has a hole in the middle of the cup for the spring. So next I used a spring compressor like this. 

Using this kind I was able to compress the springs and get them in place but it was a pain because the tighter you compressed the springs the more compressor would start to kink to one side. It made it difficult to line it up with the hole in the control arm to remove after the spring was in place. 

 

This last kind I believe is what ford actually calls for to be used. I don't know any place that rents this kind and of course it's one of the more expensive kind to buy. Compressing the springs is a pain in the rear but not really my main problem. You can see how high the front end sits in the picture of the car on the trailer. That is with the motor already in the car and it was sitting a good couple inches to high. That was with the oem 96 k member in place with the stock foxbody control arms and springs. Am I supposed to use springs from a different year mustang? Lowering springs? Everything I read says this set up should work but my car sits way too high and feels way to stiff. 

Blunder
Blunder New Reader
5/4/18 3:35 a.m.

The car is currently sitting with the engine and k member in place but without the control arms and suspension in. 

Blunder
Blunder New Reader
5/4/18 4:23 a.m.

When removing these springs from the car recently I placed a jack under the control arm for support while I removed the shock from the spindle. Has soon as I removed the second/last bolt holding the spindle to the shock the car immediately sprung up a couple inches off the jack stand because the spring was so tight and pushing so hard against the control arm that was supported by the jack. 

Apexcarver
Apexcarver PowerDork
5/4/18 5:57 a.m.

If you need, I can get a few measurements off my 97 cobra's control arms. Easy to do as its on a 4 post lift. 

 

I dont know why you would want to use stock springs, even all stock they were fairly 4x4 in stance and far too soft. You could probably get all of your questions answered with a call to Maximum Motorsports. I have H&R "race" springs on my car and like them a lot. Best you can do short of coilovers.  They have helped me a few times and their tech line is second to none (well, for mustangs, Flyin Miata may be a bit better).  One call to them and they can tell you what you need and sell it to you. 

Blunder
Blunder New Reader
5/4/18 6:23 a.m.

I ideally do want to change out the springs. My goal is to get the car running and driving first and then upgrade things like suspension and brakes. I'm at a loss as to why the stock springs won't work for the time being. I feel like lowering springs will only get the car back to the same ride height as it had previously been with the original 5.0 k member.  The help is appreciated if you can get me some measurements. I'll go and measure my stock springs and take a few pictures to post. To everyone who has/will respond I appreciate all the help. I know there are other forums that are more specific to the build I'm doing but honestly this forum just seems more like home. I've been a lurker here for awhile and like the vibe of the members here. 

Blunder
Blunder New Reader
5/4/18 6:56 a.m.

It's sort of tough to see the numbers but the spring with insulators measures 15.5". Give or take maybe a 1/4".

Blunder
Blunder New Reader
5/6/18 7:21 p.m.

Engine and tranny are in, sort of. Looks like the trans tunnel will need a massaging. Either that or it appears I might be able to trim the tab off the transmission that is hitting the tunnel. 

 

I was hoping I wouldn't have to trim the tunnel for the shifter but it looks like I'll have to. 

Apexcarver
Apexcarver PowerDork
5/7/18 8:08 a.m.

Will try to measure tonight, was away from the forum over the weekend.

Blunder
Blunder New Reader
5/7/18 2:07 p.m.

No problem. I appreciate it. Thanks in advance. 

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