New Old Truck

In reply to Cousin_Eddie:

it was sucking it all into the carb before making a mess in there instead.

Are the trailer park valve covers baffled? That can contribute to a lot of what appears to be Blow by.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

Gotta be honest, I haven't looked.

Easy enough. Shine a light down there. If not baffled, theres a quart of oil in pretty short order, especially when the pcv is hooked up.

thinking back to the last oil change, I don't think they are. Funnel went in quite far, too far for a baffle. Crap.... now I gotta buy good valve covers. Damnit guys. You're costing me money.

Do you have a welder? Tack some bent sheetmetal to the insides of the covers, with about 3/8 inch of clearance to the roof of the valvecover.. Repaint.

Im sure you could also tjroughbolt, but.....

THAT Would ruin the chrome!

Good valve covers that allow a properly functioning PCV system save you money with the reduced oil loss/consumption and the oil life being more or less doubled.

Bobzilla wrote: THAT Would ruin the chrome!

Pop rivets and JB weld?

Bobzilla wrote: THAT Would ruin the chrome!

Like the flames and skulls didn't?

You could find a way to weld inside rhe flames. Then, tape off the chrome surrounding the flames, paint the flamea chevy orange to match tge block. Highlight the cutouts with black. Follow through to air cleaner.

I'll probably just get a pair of decent ones at some point at a swap meet. I did order a new air filter yesterday. Like always, I went overkill. 14x5" element.

Maybe some grommets like these may work: https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-68776-Valve-Grommet-Baffle/dp/B001G9FRKC

Those will work with a breather, these should work with the PCV valve: https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-68773-Valve-Grommet-Baffle/dp/B001G97Y6C/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P7JGZVJ70YHGZBC9A7S0

That way you could keep your valve covers.

Even though I'm not ready, I've been thinking about the swap to the TKO in another year or so. I really really like where my shifter is now. With the SM465, it sits up top, about 6" behind the bellhousing. The tremec's are all at the rear, which means I'd have to make a new hole and fill my current. Then I lose the awesome long truck shifter.

Could something like this (for mustangs) work for me in this case? It's have to be bolted to the top of the trans somehow... but it could work, right?

In reply to Bobzilla:

I think so- I don't even think that would have to be attached to the trans- could bolt it to the floor so long as it eventually finds it's way to the original shifter on the trans. Or you could conceivably just get a shift lever that puts the ball approximately where yours is currently.

Bobzilla wrote: Even though I'm not ready, I've been thinking about the swap to the TKO in another year or so. I really really like where my shifter is now. With the SM465, it sits up top, about 6" behind the bellhousing. The tremec's are all at the rear, which means I'd have to make a new hole and fill my current. Then I lose the awesome long truck shifter. Could something like this (for mustangs) work for me in this case? It's have to be bolted to the top of the trans somehow... but it could work, right?

not to thread jack but does anyone know where to find a remote shifter like this? this ones was from Mustang's Plus but it doesnt look like they carry it anymore?

"Double bend" lever? A remote shifter doesn't need to be bolted to the trans.

In reply to edizzle89:

Make one yourself, I did and it worked like a charm

[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/loosecannon/media/MGB-GT/IMG_6116.jpg.html][/URL]

In reply to loosecannon:

We're going to need details. Or a seperate build thread.

Here it is exposed, just a heim joint at the front attached to the flat stock shifter bar at the rear, with a flat washer for a little less friction.

[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/loosecannon/media/MGB-GT/IMG_5126.jpg.html][/URL]

after thinking about it you could probably also just a cheap ebay T5 short throw shifter (probably can find a used one even cheaper) and just cut the bottom piece that goes into the transmission off, then its just mount it and make your rod between it and the actual shifter

Wow... you know when have an ignition system that actually ignites the fuel you give it, it runs a lot better. THe old wires were sticky... like warm freshly chewed gum. There were arc marks everywhere. The rotor had worn down almost a 1/4" from original size. THe cap was equally bad and crusty. Sure, I still have blow-by but now it actually RUNS. Put a new cap/rotor on, new wires and cleaned the 2 dirty plugs.

Made a couple hard pulls on it this morning and it pulled hard to about 5200rpms without complaint. There was more, but I didn't want to push too hard.

Also finally got the fan wired to a manual switch in the cab, the dash buttons mounted and the new 5" air filter. The old one was black on the inside, and brown on the out and "only" a 3" filter.

Sometimes it's the easily reached things that make all the difference.....great news.

Pictures because. Overkill for sure. But it looks right

Lunch time drive. Thing is so much smoother. Still stupid slow, but at least its a smooth slow. lol