There is yellow on every BDT car this year. Unplanned badassery.
Also, a terribly bad decision relative to grubby hand prints, so perfect then!
There is yellow on every BDT car this year. Unplanned badassery.
Also, a terribly bad decision relative to grubby hand prints, so perfect then!
In my Wreck Racing college days, we CAD-designed and waterjet cut an aluminum cover for the Subaru trans in the Honda Insight Challenge car.
You took an angle grinder to a frying pan and achieved the same thing. lol.
Ok 4 days of update time. I took Friday off again and a friend came over on Thursday evening. Total between Thur/Fri/Sat/Sun I logged 20 Hrs (It's Big push week now) for a current total of 373.25 Hrs (Yes I skipped the 350 Hr update.. sorry busy doing racecar stuff).
A couple accounting bookkeeping items:
Shifter cost $21.79/9 Hrs
Steering Wheel Cost $6.55/3 Hrs
Thursday I finished engine preps to bolt the engine into the subframe and merge it to the chassis. There where some challenges encountered with the bolting after finish welding (minor warpage of the subframe) but everything managed to get lined up. Future changes will be made to make this easier.
Friday I assembled the suspension. I thought this would take only a few hours but ended up taking most of the day. Getting the used brakes up to snuff to go on the car took a fair amount of time. I ended up ordering new calipers/pads/rotors and will install them (maybe) Thursday at the parking lot. The suspension is set at ride height but the pullrods are relaxed so it's still sitting on the table. Prior to assembly I did a bolt weight check for 1/2 of the car. Every bolt associated with the suspension was weighed and found to be 4.5 lbs. The scale used was not 100% trustworthy so I am adding ~10% and rounding to 5 lbs per side. As a check I estimated it based on Qtys and published Parts/lb weights and got slight under 4.5 lbs. So I feel safe budgeting at 5 lbs. Bulk Grade 5 fine thread is $3.79/lb at Rural King. Any specialty fastners are being added specifically outside of this. For the chassis side (harnesses, steering shaft/rack, Subframe bolts etc) I again did a quick estimate and was only around 3 lbs. I'm going to just budget another 5 lbs just to be safe. When the car comes down for paint I will accurately weigh all the fasteners removed for a better cost in $2022 but will just carry the coushin for $2021 simplicity.
Saturday I assembled the pedal cluster and ran the front brake lines. I also welded up a removable rear subframe cross brace for above the transmission. Then Sunday I ran the rear brake lines, Clutch line, and bled both systems.
Guys.. I have brakes. The pedal is firm and is will be interesting to see what the feel will be like.
So that is how I spent the weekend. Here are some pictures of the current status of the car for oogleing.
Also next activity is sorting out the box of death.. this is the box where challenge dreams go to possibly die..
nocones said:Also next activity is sorting out the box of death.. this is the box where challenge dreams go to possibly die..
Oooof! Good luck with the death box of wiring!
Just throw it all at the car! Tie wrap the extra out of the way behind the seats!
Future you can deal with that E36 M3.
In reply to bobzilla :
Especially if they weren't already busy finishing their own car
gumby said:Just throw it all at the car! Tie wrap the extra out of the way behind the seats!
Future you can deal with that E36 M3.
agreed. but don't forget step 1, which is to leave it in the box but attach battery, engine, and ecu. See if you run.
In reply to gumby :
I figured we could knock that out in the parking lot with a bottle of Fireball and a keg of beer.
If it's any help this link has quite a few service manuals including wiring diagrams. It can be a little tricky to find the right car as Japan was typically a couple of years ahead of us getting the new generations of cars (at least with the Legacy/Outbacks, eg our 05-07 Legacy's they had in 03 already). If you click the parent directories there is a bunch of other manufacturers as well.
2.5 hrs into the pile and the main harness is stripped of all it's tape and covering and ready to remove non ECM wires.
I downloaded the FSM and printed a lot of the wiring diagrams. I laid out the main harness and have identified with labels every connector. Now with everything stripped it's time to just eliminate anything that doesn't run to the ECU. Ground and power distribution are the big challenge as many wires split so it's going to be slow going. But it's going. I have no idea how long it will take but I'll just keep going.
Another day another 3 hrs of wiring purgatory.
I have 6 wires left to trace and keep/cut.
Then I have to build a relay/fuse board to restore power to the ECU. The good thing is the only "ECU" wires cut where either Power/Abandoned inputs (Fuel tank/emissions sensors) or instrument outputs. All the wires from the ECU to the actual engine are uncut.
The victory pile.
After another 1.5 Hrs I have created Schroeder's Wiring Loom.
It could work. Or it could fail. Right now it is both the best and worst wiring harness until I hook it up and find out.
Connections are (clockwise from top):
Engine plugs (unmodified)
Relay coil signals (Fuel/Fan1/Fan2)
12V feeds (3 small ones, 1 larger one, starter)
Main Power Relay (Unmodified)
ECM Plugs (Unmodified)
Never to be used signals/sensors that I will cut off after the car runs good(Fuel Tank/emissions)
Maybe will be used in the future signals/sensors (Gauges, warning lights, Service Light)
ODB-II port and "Check connector" (not sure if I need these or if it will even work)
I am hopeful that it works.. there isn't a lot of ECM stuff that I actually cut. The number of 12V inputs I have matches "Fuse" or "Main" inputs shown on the schematic. I did have a issue with the pinout not agreeing for the illumination and Defrost input to the ECM. They seem to just be landed completely in the wrong spot and the things landed where they are supposed to be (per the book) are completely different functions. Everything else about the manual I have matched reality for Wire colors and locations and the rest of the loom the only issue is the ECM pinouts. And this part was completely unmodified by me and the car worked great before I took it apart. I made my cuts based on where the lines went and they aren't getting hooked up to anything so I'm confident I won't damage it but I am nervous about that part.
I also got the power harness (Part of the Subaru front harness) stripped down to what I need. The fan relays have this nice little narrow relay mount that has 2 extra relays on it so I pulled the wires from them also. This is a very simple harness. Fuses I'm going to use an aftermarket fuse holder for now because using either stock fuse holder is difficult due to their size.
Tonight's goal is to wire up the ignition/start switches and make the relay panel and get everything mounted and hooked up. Then tomorrow I'm taking the day off so it's Battery mount/Fuel pump/accelerator Cable and I should have first Fire. That would be great as it would give me 4.5 days remaining for whatever bodywork I can fabricobble before it gets loaded up WED..
Mid day lunch break update:
+4 Hrs. Battery mount is done.
Tank (Tree?) Mount is done.
such lucky precision....
Pretty amazing that in exactly one week from this moment, you'll be taking FTD in the $2000 Challenge autocross!
maschinenbau said:Pretty amazing that in exactly one week from this moment, you'll be taking FTD in the $2000 Challenge autocross!
The best smack once again misses the smack talk thread!
Another mid day update. I has wires
And a kill switch. The kill switch pokes out the fuel door hole in the body.
Now I just need to get a main power cable build an ignition/start button switch panel and make grounds happen then its almost vroom vroom time.
The astute amongst you will notice the 18" OEM starter cable that runs from the kill switch to the starter post. 2.5" away.
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