I happen to have a factory 1966 Ford wiring diagram manual...it's pretty detailed, with schematics and illustrations showing how the harnesses are routed through the vehicle, etc. It won't show any modifications you need to make for fuel injection control, of course, but it does show all the original stuff. I can scan them and send copies if you're interested.
In reply to stuart in mn :
I still have them from you! Sitting with the car in the glove compartment!
Norma66 said:
In reply to stuart in mn :
I still have them from you! Sitting with the car in the glove compartment!
That's right...I forgot I already sent you copies. Old age is setting in.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Mike do you have a book you learned from? I have done basic wiring but don’t know that a full rewire is within my skill set
NOHOME
UltimaDork
12/18/18 9:05 a.m.
In reply to Norma66 :
This is one of those jobs that is more intimidating than dificult.
First choice is if you want to use a repro-original harness or a Hot-Rod harness. Having done both with Brit cars, my thoughts are that the only reason to do a repro-original harness is because "restoration" and "original matters". Repro harness looks intimidating when all coiled up. Once you start laying it out it kind of locates itself and connectors tend to end up pretty close to what they are meant to power.
The Hot Rod harnesses cost a fraction of the repro stuff and tend to have improvements such as relays for things such as headlights so you can actually see at night and not burn out the switches. They also tend ot have extra circuits for accessories so you don't have to scotchlock all your toys in to the harness later on. They take easy to the next level in that the function of the wire is actually printed in English along the entire length of the wire. Layout and routing is not as self explanatory, but you can emulate the factory layout if you know it.
If you eve do rewire a car, when you first go to reconnect the positive terminal, put a 7-10 amp fuse in line with the cable and the battery post. If it blows it wont cause any damage, but you have a short somewhere that needs to be sorted. Or the lights are on.
Pete
In reply to NOHOME : thanks Pete. If I do it Ron Francis has a pretty complete setup for my car. Just hate the thought of dropping the dash. Probably just need to bite the bullet and do the damn thing right.
https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WR%2D75
Well there’s been a bit of lack of progress on Norma.
1. Wrecked the Wife’s winter car (insert Red Forman dumbass meme)
2. Been out of the country getting married
Work now starts again in earnest.
big thing that needs to happen this week is rearend install.
Then rear brakes need ordered and pushrods need ordered.
Need to drop column and figure out some wiring stuff.
Time to get moving.
Springs coming
As long as you're ok that's all that matters. I know it's been said a million times over but car's can be replaced, people can't.
Went to go work on the Galaxie today and my daily driver wouldn’t start. Poop. It was a high of 5 today here. Oh well to the parts store we got.
one battery later back in business.
Hopefully get some good updates this week.
So the cars been crawling. But did make some solid progress today on replacing the old bridge on my father and laws property. Took 10 guys a winch, a skid loader and a lot of hillbilly engineering.
Lucky the ice held. Each beam bolted together for the span weighs 4400 pounds.
Time to electrify this build!
Got the rear two piece brakes put together. Time to get the project moving!
Norma66 said:
So the cars been crawling. But did make some solid progress today on replacing the old bridge on my father and laws property. Took 10 guys a winch, a skid loader and a lot of hillbilly engineering.
Lucky the ice held. Each beam bolted together for the span weighs 4400 pounds.
That there might be the height of "Hillbilly Engineering"!
I can about hear it:
"What do we have to hold the beams up while we bolt them together? Needs to be about three feet or so."
"Hey those picnic bench seats are about right. If we move fast the spousal unit will never know..."
In reply to rdcyclist :
There was a point that i didn't think the thing would get put up and we were going to let the beams sink to the bottom for fish habitat. The mother in law was less than impressed with our "engineering"
So I measured for pushrods tonight. Here is the procedure I used.
I adjusted the rocker to the middle of its adjustment.
Put the lifter on the base part of the lobe and then adjusted the pushrod to zero lash.
Measure. Any faults in this logic?
Color the end of the valve stem with a Sharpie, then assemble everything and rotate the engine through a couple cycles, then look at the pattern left on the valve stem to see if it's centered. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/measure-pushrod-length/
Until you get the new wiring harness in. On the glass fuses clean them and then get some di-ox from Home Depot and cover the sides of the metal. This is what we use when installing aluminum wire. It keeps it from getting corroded. Works great for the ceramic fuses in my fiat spider.
In reply to brad131a4 : At this point the wiring won’t be needed until the new motor is in. I will do a complete gut before restart.
Before
after
Like the giant potato I am I broke a bolt assembling the rear brakes so will need to ez out that before continuing
Once I broke the bolt I stopped working for the day. Normally when I break something I get upset and start ram rodding more. Bolt cams out by hand this morning. Replacement is on the way. 16 dollars with shipping. Woof
I think I would chase the threads with a tap. Just to be sure.
Update from the Ice Planet Hoth. No signs of the cold lifting, so pushing ahead. Spent about 3 hours on the car. Safety wired the brakes all up. Pretty frozen in the unisulated garage by the time I got done.
Went to go get the rearend buttoned up and realized I bought the wrong size kit from wilwood. Should have bought a small rearend ford kit vs the big ford that I bought. Hopefully get it all sorted Monday.