OK class, today we learn about Flatties.

In reply to Recon1342 :

Center ports are siamesed and exit the side of block between the cylinders.

End ports wrap around the cylinder front or back and exit the side of the block front and back.

That's why they overheat when you try to make any sort of power with them.

Chevrolet's I6 and literally everyone else's V8 were far better designs.

The Cad / Lasalle and Lincoln V8s, Cad V16, Packard V12, all bring the exhaust out through the valley instead of routing it through the block and the water jacket.

The Ford V8 and later Lincoln V12 share the same design flaws.

The Ford Flathead is cheap, that's about all it has going for it.

In reply to ShawnG :

I thought the Caddy V12 and V16 had all of the ports on the outside of the engine.  Maybe I am thinking of a Caddy competitor.  They were not flathead engines.

The engine that I am thinking of used updraft carburetors.  No worries about poor atomization with an updraft, any big blobs fall out of suspension, anything that gets into the engine is either vapor or finely atomized.  Great for something that has to run smoothly.

Plus it allowed the hood to be lower.

Edit:  Definitely Cadillac.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

You're correct, I had a brain fart there.

I've only worked on one V16 Cadillac. The Johnson carbs have a parallelogram float linkage that likes to hang up and flood if you don't get it just right.

I've only read about them in books, myself . But I did get to play around with a very clean '40 Cadillac, mainly its cooling system.  I still get PTSD about trying to shift it into Reverse.  Very tricky on the prewar Hydra-Matic trans, you have to go forward slightly and then into Reverse or it will gear clash.  I managed to get it into gear maybe one in ten attempts.

In reply to ShawnG :

Today I Learned. 
 

Cool!!!

I know, I know, but these things take a while.  If you've ever removed a line or cable and said " I'll remember where that goes", you will just nod.

The fuel line is now in and is wrapped in a heat resistant cover; heat from the manifolds promote vapor lock.

BTW, if you find yourself in a similar situation and want "period correct" wire type hose clamps, an auto supply house charges and arm and a leg.  Amazon has stainless ones; $8 for 5.

I have concerns.

The engine is wired, plumped and vacuum attached.  Charge up the 6V battery, rechecked all the connections, key on, hit the starter, it rolled over.  That;s all I wanted to hear.

Took a break from that while connecting the 3 heater cores in the car.  Fun stuff.  Yesterday I hit it again, nuttin'.  It groaned, that's it.  At assembly, everything was lubed up with white grease and you could turn it over by turning the pulley by hand, so it's not locked.  

Should I lay 12V to the starter (they spin wicked fast), just to get the 7 quarts of oil up and around.

.... or am I just a nervous new Mom?

First I would check the battery voltage. Second make sure you can turn the engine over by hand. My experience an engine with the proper clearances should turn over with just a 1/2" drive ratchet. 

So exciting!!!  this is such a neat project. 

Battery shows 6V, does (did) crank by hand, but with pulleys etc. a ratchet may be required.  Plugs are out, so maybe what I'm hearing is the thing turn over, but because it's so free it sounds strange.  Dunno.  One the drive shaft is in and everything looks good, I'll either hop it some some 12V or bump start it.

Film at 11:00.....

BTW: I had a truck converted from 6 to 12Volt.  Big resistor for the 6V gages,  but the 6V starter with 12V spun at double time!

If this still uses the lever / button type starter switch, mounted on the side of the starter, pull it off and have a look at the contacts. 

I've had them burn and carbon up to the point that they stop working.

Remember, 6v system. Half the voltage but double the current. Those contacts are carrying a lot. 

Make sure all your battery cables and such are up to the task. Light,  12v cables won't cut it.

And turn those rad hoses so you can't see the stripe on the side of them. Ick.  

Well, it's outside.  Brakes work, new tires and caps, still got electrical issues.  We never got along anyway.  Going to be flatbed to a buddy's shop.  Registered with 1940 plates, "World's Fair State" as was in 1964 also.

K from Men in Black:  "Of course it's aliens, why else would we hold it in Queens".

That's awesome. Glad to see it back together. 

In reply to 914Driver :

Hurray!

Not yet ....

Probably the first time it's moved under its own power in at least a decade. Very exciting! It's such a great looking car.

Well class, the lesson continues.   =~ (

 It was run long enough to plug up leaks, seat in the cam, lifters, valves etc. BUT from a plastic jug.  Fuel pump is pumping but leaks a LOT.  Air can be blown through the fuel lines from the tank right to the carb , blowing 200 psi. air into the tank?  NFG.  The outlet fitting is plugged big time.

Drop the tank.  I guess sometime in its life it leaked or was ugly, so it was fiberglassed (?)  and then sprayed with some magic used on metal roofing in the 1960s.  Looking high and low, I found a new tank, filler is 4" off location and the draw is on the right front side, not the left front, but these things can be worked around.  Also purchased a fuel pump rebuild kit.  

Like they say "The last 10% of any project takes 90% of your time and money". 

 F an  A !

ShawnG said:

In reply to Recon1342 :

The Cad / Lasalle and Lincoln V8s, Cad V16, Packard V12, all bring the exhaust out through the valley instead of routing it through the block and the water jacket.

You should see one of these in an early 1960s slingshot dragster with 8 pipes sticking straight up in the air!!

BTW:  I put some chrome nut covers on the had bolts, only because I had them, a friend said, "Nah, looks like a Ford".

914Driver said:

BTW:  I put some chrome nut covers on the had bolts, only because I had them, a friend said, "Nah, looks like a Ford".

Being loud and over-the-top is allowed with a Cadillac.

Cadillacs are for new money.