Following the discussion on marine grade vs epoxy coated exterior plywood reminded me of this excellent resource:
Covers virtually every very aspect of the work and is based on actual experience. I found it informative when I was restoring an old sailboat that had rotten plywood bulkheads. The book appears to have been updated.
https://www.amazon.com/Runabout-Renovation-Find-Fiberglass-Speedboat/dp/162654400X
I used corelite instead of wood on a 1959 Lake n Sea I'm restoring but I'm not really convinced it was worth the extra cost. On such a small boat it isn't too terrible I guess. At the time I was thinking build it so my grandkids can still enjoy it but properly sealed exterior grade will last 40 plus years as well. I've done boats with polyester and epoxy over exterior grade and at this point epoxy over exterior grade seems to be the best all around. If you're going to spend Marine grade money in my mind it only makes sense to step up to composites since Marine grade won't really gain you anything.
Another possibility is AdvanTech. It's a waterproof sheathing/subflooring. That is what I used on the rear deck of the Jet Boat. It has held up extremely well considering the boat sits outside all the time. It's going on 5 years old. HD or Lowes should carry it.
Well, the sketch level jumped up a solid two or three notches.
Removed the lower unit of the motor. Water passageways were filled with aluminum oxide. May be able to flush it out.
Then I tried to drain the lower unit and got... nothing. So I unbolted the halves, and lifted it off. Dry as a bone, but it looks like it never held fluid. I'll disassemble it completely and inspect the bearings, but I'd be willing to bet they are shot. Depending on prices I may still try and run them.
Sidenote: berkeley special prices for normal E36 M3.
After doing some searching, I've found one of the bearings, but still looking for pics that show the part numbers for the rest
375761 Roller Bearing is a Timken 12580
$72 on Marine Engine (and similar price elsewhere) https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=375761
A more realistic price of $16 for the bearing can be found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Timken-12580-Bearing/dp/B000BZAAW2
Anyone able to read the part number on this race?
The water pump looks pretty normal to me for an engine that has sat up for a while. Change the impeller and maybe the pump housing and move on.
The gear case, not so much. I would definitely put bearings in it. I've had my best luck finding odd and old bearings from these guys. https://www.bearingdistributors.com/ The last bearing I had them find was for a 1920s road grader that needed a wheel bearing. There may be a local branch near you.
Try Bearings inc. If you have od, id and style it can be cross referenced.
In reply to Toyman01 (Forum Supporter) :
Generally the oxide is a sign that the motor has been in salt. The snapped head studs kind of support that. That's the main source of concern.
The motors I've messed with that I know have come from freshwater regions never have anywhere near that amount of aluminum oxide.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I live in the salt. My 96 Yamaha has lived in salt for 24 years. Every outboard I've ever worked on has lived in salt. You haven't had fun until you have spent 4 days trying to pull one rusted powerhead bolt. The pump looks pretty normal to me. Throw a pump kit at it. If you are worried about blocked passages, stick the foot in a bucket of Salt-Away for 10 minutes. It does a pretty good job of removing the crust that can grow in water cooling passages from sitting. If you taste it, it's probably salt crystals as much as aluminum oxide. I would also pull the thermostat housings and check them. They can get pretty crusty and stick.
To stop the bolt snapping, heat everything. Just hold steady tension on the wrench and heat the case until it moves. It takes a good bit of heat so just keep pouring it on. Patience will save you a lot of time extracting broken bolts. Anti-seize everything liberally when it goes back together.
The gear case hasn't seen salt inside of it. It would be destroyed if it had. I'd throw a set of bearings and a shaft seal in it, check the shift dogs for wear and run it.
If you can get the bearing numbers you may be able to do better than $16. I had a tile saw and the tool part place wanted a stupid amount for a shaft bearing. Pulled the numbers, and went to advance auto and got a rear alternator bearing for a 62 thunderbird for a few dollars
In reply to Toyman01 (Forum Supporter) :
I was thinking of 3D printing an adapter between the hose and thermostat housing to flush the whole system out. Depending on the flow rate I'll try the Salt-Away.
I use salt away to flush my vintage outboard after running in the marsh. Hopefully to prevent that.
Word of warning on salt away. Its sodium nitrite which can be fatal of consumed. Don't let kids or.pets near it. The nitrite blocks blood cells from taking up oxygen but its not dangerous unless consumed.
Now, do I have enough filament...
I finally got all the parts to replace the head, settled on a color I liked to repaint the head, cleaned and prepped everything, chased threads on the old bolts and inspected new bolts, gather everything up and clean up my work area then remove the old head I had on the engine to keep stuff out of the cylinders
And I remembered that I had two snapped bolts in the case.
So I think on how I want to remove them and settle for trying to drill them out. One problem with drilling them out is that it is a pain in the ass to get the bit centered. So I 3D printed some stuff.
Turned out nicely.
New head, mocked up to get the paint on there.
Bolted on, torqued down, and testing the new flushing adapter. Pleasantly surprised with how well it works.
Helps to put a gasket in there, though.
Then its time to break out the paint stripper and Evapo-Rust
One on the left is done from the rust, the chrome is mostly gone. I saw some of these on eBay for $20-30 apiece and didn't pick them up. Still kicking myself about that.
Comparison of before and after Evapo-Rust, god I love this stuff.
I need to figure out how I'm going to arrange seating.
My thoughts on it were roughly these two options:
The top one would have the cooler and any fishing gear up front, and you'd have the seat fold down in order to get to the gas tank and any storage stuff in the back.
Bottom one would allow for a cooler to be in back and more open storage, seat would fold down in order to get back there to everything.
My concern is with the weight balance for the boat. Normally I won't have people with me, but if I do I'm not sure which would be best for seating. I feel like I might need to mock everything up.
I wish I could tell you on the seating, but either one will end up being a compromise in some form or fashion.
Also, the seat brackets you were interested in showed up today. They are nothing like the picture in the ad. Do not buy from that ebay listing. I'm now scrambling to figure out a new bracket plan.
In reply to captainawesome :
That sucks. What do they look like?
In reply to Mr_Asa :
Like every other bracket that requires a gap between the back and the bottom.
Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Instead of this.
s-l16002 by hatchethairy, on Flickr
Now that's weird. Looks like the seller was Don's Marine? I got mine from him and they came in as they should have.
That guy is in Clearwater, I can swing by Monday and see if he has the correct ones in stock?
In reply to Mr_Asa :
For reals?! That would be awesome. I found some other ones that are similar and put an offer on them. It's a 24 hour offer, so if they don't accept I'll know before Monday. Maybe they just sent me the wrong stuff? They still have multiple ads up with the same brackets but I was afraid they wouldn't be correct either.
Sure, I'll plan to head there Monday, I wanted to check them out in general anyways. Send me a PM with your contact info and maybe we can get you and them on the phone at the same time.
Here's the link for them based on the address on my box.
http://donsmarinesalvageyard.com/
In reply to Mr_Asa :
About 15 seconds after I typed that the other seller accepted my offer. If they don't work out I'll let you know though. I appreciate you willing to help out.
Any time, my man
I'm at the point where I need to do the transom and I don't see a great way to get to the "horns" at the top of the transom.
Click the photos for big versions.
Basic view of the transom space
The "horns" that go up under the cap, hard to see, but they go up about 1.5-2 inches under the cap
What I thought about doing is peeling the rubber trim line around and drilling out the rivets holding the cap on. That sounds like a bit of a pain, though.
You'll need to log in to post.
