Opinions on workbench build

Hi Everyone,

I'm working on a pair of movable workbenches for my garage (2' deep, 6' long, 36-38" tall). The plan is they will live along the back and side of my garage (single car garage) to allow me to get my car in when it snows. With 2 benches, I am planning on using them as either individual benches, outfeed/support tables with my miter/table saws (potential future jointer/thickness planer), or together as a long 2x12 bench or 4x6 depending on what I am working on.

My goals, besides getting some working surfaces, is to just try out some other woodworking techniques to learn more skills.

So, I have a plan, but I am stuck with how I should attach the legs and supports. I've done a few rough pics to show my ideas and would like any feedback. Red lines are where I'd do screws to attach the pieces.

I am using 4x4's for the legs and 2x6's for the supports. I want the benches to be solid. I'm planning on a multilayer 3/4" plywood top. I'd love to do something laminated (like 2x4's, or rip down some old barn beams my parents have sitting in their garage), but I need the space first, and I don't have the tools to do it.

Option 1: Notch the 4x4 where the 2x6's overlap on both the front and side. The long 2x6 will line up with the outer edge of the 4x4. The short side 2x6 will butt up against the long 2x6 but will overlap the 4x4. Screws will go into both 2x6's and the 4x4 (what is left after the notch.

Option 2: I'd only notch the 4x4 for the front (long side. The short 2x6 would mount behind the 4x4 and butt up against the long 2x6.

Option 3 - Butt the 2x6's to the 4x4s and use pocket screw to hold it all together. Maybe add a corner brace.

I know I could do the 4x4 completely inside of the 2x6's in the corner, but like I said. I'm trying to do something a little more difficult for looks and skills.

So, any thoughts?

TL;DR. How should I screw my workbench together to be solid.

Thanks!

Edited: Messed up the image link. Fixed now.

I used Option 2 when I built mine 30 years ago. Top is 3" thick laminated maple that was being disposed of in a school shop remodel. Mine was put together with nails because deck screws didn't exist then. Haven't had any problems with it at all.

Best thing for making it really sturdy is attaching to the wall, so try to have a flush surface on one of the long sides, and a dedicated place to attach it when you really need it strong. I think 2x4s would be fine for the rails, for sure the lower ones.

Don't forget about how your going to mount your vise, wood or metal. Might influence how you handle the top overhang.

I would do the top rails with option 1, and the bottom without notches, and the rails on the inside.

I made 4 multi use work/ cafe tables that are about 33 3/4 square. Each has 2 sliding ledgers that are 1.5 inches lower. When I want a big table, three 2x12s sit on the ledgers between two tables and the whole thing is flush.

coexist wrote: Best thing for making it really sturdy is attaching to the wall, so try to have a flush surface on one of the long sides, and a dedicated place to attach it when you really need it strong. I think 2x4s would be fine for the rails, for sure the lower ones. Don't forget about how your going to mount your vise, wood or metal. Might influence how you handle the top overhang. I would do the top rails with option 1, and the bottom without notches, and the rails on the inside. I made 4 multi use work/ cafe tables that are about 33 3/4 square. Each has 2 sliding ledgers that are 1.5 inches lower. When I want a big table, three 2x12s sit on the ledgers between two tables and the whole thing is flush.

I'm planning on a wall mounted bench in the corner to cover some drawers/cabinets. I'll try to put my sketch for the workbench into sketchup or something to show what my thought was for the overhangs.

I have a ~1' tall 3" deep bump out (foundation) at the bottom of my walls. I plan for the top to overhang 4" on one long and short side and flush on the other 2 sides. That way, I can put the two benches together if I need a much larger work surface for assembly.

-Mike

In reply to Wxdude10:

I built some 2'x8' benches using only 2x4's assembled similar to #1 but without the notching, and they easily held 400-500lbs of vinyl record albums. If you were closer I'd make you a deal on them, as need to find a home for them.

Opt 2 with carriage bolts instead of screws.

Your biggest strain will not be downward. It will be when you have the thing loaded with tools or weight, and start pulling on it to get it rolling.

Opt 1 leaves too little of the 4x4 remaining.

Opt 3 will rip the screws out instantly.

BTW, you don't need to notch. If you carriage bolt them, it will be plenty strong.

In reply to SVreX:

Yeah. I was trying to be a little fancy with it. Trying to learn some new woodworking techniques.

Id go option 2 wihtout the notch as well.

And I have been using these lag screws a lot. They are easy to use and very strong with a large head. I think they would work nicely.

java230 wrote: Id go option 2 wihtout the notch as well. And I have been using these lag screws a lot. They are easy to use and very strong with a large head. I think they would work nicely.

What he said. Love those lag screws.

Wxdude10 wrote: In reply to SVreX: Yeah. I was trying to be a little fancy with it. Trying to learn some new woodworking techniques.

That's a perfectly good reason to do it.

Just don't cut the notch in 2 directions. You reduce your 4x4 to a 2x2.

I would also suggest you scale the 2x6's back to 2x4's. Your bench isn't big enough to need 2x6's, and you are gonna loose valuable storage space underneath.

For reference, I have a similar bench. Mine is 6'x40". It has 2x4 legs and framing. I beat the crap out of it, and it has never failed. About 10 years old.

My lower horizontal framing member is at the bottom, not the middle. Is sits directly on the wheels, and makes a huge low shelf where I store all my power tools. The end has drawers in it for hand tools, and there is a vice in one edge. It probably weighs over 1000 lbs. Its on small wheels. It doesn't roll easily- I consider that a good thing. It stays put, but I can move it when I need to.

java230 wrote: Id go option 2 wihtout the notch as well. And I have been using these lag screws a lot. They are easy to use and very strong with a large head. I think they would work nicely.

I love those Spax screws, but they are primarily designed for timber in compression (like log homes, or RR tie construction)

The fasteners holding the bench legs will be in shear. I would prefer carriage bolts.

I agree that 2x6 for the shelving braces is overkill. I had a couple lying around, so I used them vertically on the sides, but they would kill your shelving space to be horizontal.

Also, it's probably cheaper and stronger to make a ladder frame top with 2x4 (maybe even ripped down to 2x3) and sheathe it with 3/4 than to do a double 3/4 layer.

Also, notching sounds cool, but you can just layer two 2x4 (one solid and one to fill in the open spaces between shelving braces) and get about the same strength.

And be sure to leave a thin and short overhang on the front and sides for convenient clamping. Don't have an overhang where your vice will be. You need it as close to the corner and as strong as you can make it. I sandwiched 1/8 inch steel plate on top and bottom of the wood top with through bolting for the vice. So it doesn't move unless the whole table moves.

SVreX wrote:

java230 wrote: Id go option 2 wihtout the notch as well. And I have been using these lag screws a lot. They are easy to use and very strong with a large head. I think they would work nicely.

I love those Spax screws, but they are primarily designed for timber in compression (like log homes, or RR tie construction) The fasteners holding the bench legs will be in shear. I would prefer carriage bolts.

The ones I have been using are "lag replacement", Timberlok branded ones. They are stronger than 3/8" lags in shear according to the data on the box. Not a standard spax, that was just and internet grab pic.

I have also been using those Timber screws in shear for interior stairs without any additional support, very secure. You could use the 2x6s for (theoretical) better strength at the joint, and cut an arch in them up to +/- 3" in the center. Classy.

Yeah, what bothers me about the timber screws is that they are not even in pure shear. Once the bench is loaded, pulling up t to get it rolling is a back and forth sideways shear force. Sooner or later, they could snap. And as the wood drys, holes wear bigger, they won't bite as well.

Carriage bolts have much bigger shanks (like 10X), and can always be retightened.

It's just a better tool for the job.

In reply to java230:

I believe your info about Timberlok vs lag screws. I am not recommending lag screws. I am recommending carriage bolts.

I did mine with just decking screws the first time. I put a shelf the height of a plastic storage bin under it. This stiffened the hell out of the workbench...

Nails work best in shear, screws compress the two materials together but will go loose over time. If you "pin" nails i.e. do not nail them all perpendicular they will hold stronger and longer than screws.

(I use screws to pull two pieces of wood together, then put a nail on each side of the screw. The nails are both 30 off of perpendicular so that they are 60 apart from each other. That joint will never move...)

Thank you everyone for the feedback and ideas. I'll probably go with option 2. I'll post some pics as I get going on it.