Wait, is the motor seized up, or am I reading this wrong?
Wait, is the motor seized up, or am I reading this wrong?
Originally, yes.
No longer.
We had a space/time anomaly.
Thanks guys, I'll loosen the bell housing bolts tonight and give it another try. 
Crap Just typed out a tutorial on doing this and didn't hit add post. Call me before you start.
wheels777 wrote:SkinnyG wrote: You could probably shove the motor forward enough to work the converter. One clunk is the Stator. One clunk is the Impellor One clunk is the Pump.One clunk is the Stator - EASY One clunk is the Impellor - EASY One clunk is the Pump - PITA With the converter out, look inside and then align the pump drive of the converter before trying to install into the trans.
As Said, hook up the Lift again remove all Bolts in Bell and motor mounts then call... You need the room. Tranny on floor jack with a board so not to dent tranny pan.
wheels777 wrote:SkinnyG wrote: You could probably shove the motor forward enough to work the converter. One clunk is the Stator. One clunk is the Impellor One clunk is the Pump.One clunk is the Stator - EASY One clunk is the Impellor - EASY One clunk is the Pump - PITA With the converter out, look inside and then align the pump drive of the converter before trying to install into the trans.
Wheels, I sent you a PM regarding the wiring diagram. Sorry for the quick 'jack. Back to the regularly scheduled program...
This is the current status. There's about 3/8" between the converter and the rest of the trans.
There's about 1" from bellhousing surface to the mounting surface on the converter too.
I initially backed out all the bellhousing bolts about 1/2", but still couldn't get the converter to spin. So I turned the crank(from the pulley) and it turned freely. While I rotated it through about 1-rotation I heard a couple clunks from the converter, and when I slid back underneath I was able to rotate the converter freely. I can hear it engaging something inside the trans while I turn it, but it doesn't seem to want to go in further.
Does it look all the way seated, or do I need to keep trying?
Side note: I've been using one of my Rural King $20 LED lights set across the bottom of the windshield to illuminate the engine bay. I'm seriously considering building a rolling stand that I can attach it to, with the ability to slide up/down and rotate.
In reply to petegossett:
Need a good patent attorney?
In reply to Ovid_and_Flem:
Lol! I'm sure someone smarter than I had that idea patented a long time ago.
In reply to petegossett:
On another note, looks like we've started a C4 Feeding Frenzy
In reply to Ovid_and_Flem:
As always Team Stampie welcomes any and all Vettes to the Challenge.
Stampie wrote: In reply to Ovid_and_Flem: As always Team Stampie welcomes any and all Vettes to the Challenge.
For 2017, B&S will oblige you
Hey Pete:
This is sounding way too hard.
Does the old trashed OEM converter bolt right up? For purposes of fit check only.
Maybe this converter does not match up with your combo
In reply to Agent98:
This is the converter that came with the car. I had no intention of replacing it so I'm hopeful it'll work...just like I'm hopeful the trans will work once I get it running. 
Day-83(1.5-hours):
The torque converter is in place, trans and engine mated and bolted together(with the exeption of one bolt...), flex plate and converter bolted together, and engine still turns freely.
I also got the starter boltd up and wired. Leaving me with the flex plate cover, oil cooler plumbing, and fuel filter replacement to take care of underneath the car.
So I have the 4 corner bellhousing bolts in, and the top one on the drver's side too. However, the passenger's top bolt is partially obscured by a firewall protrusion where the ECU harness runs, and that same bolt also holds the trans dipstick tube into place. Unfortunately there's only enough room for 2 or 3 fingers - even with my tiny hands - and there's just no way to get the bolt though the tab and threaded in. There's also no room to access it underneath due to the trans tube... Meh, 5 out of 6 aren't bad, right?
I find that in dire circumstances, a grimy finer and a dab of crazy glue to attach the bolt to said finger will get the bolt in place. You wont lose too much skin.
If it's the one I'm thinking about a universal with about 4 feet of extensions you can get it from the driver's side rear.
In reply to NOHOME:
That's actually a damn good idea. I wonder if cyanoacrylate adheres to nitrile? Since I usually wear a pair of gloves I wouldn't even lose much skin.
In reply to Stampie:
It's not visible from under the car, so I'm not sure several feet of extensions and a spotter on top to guide it in would do the trick? There's actually enough room to turn it from the top - not much, but enough to get it in. Honestly I think I could get the bolt in fine if it weren't for the tab on the trans dipstick tube, but I can't see it to get it aligned, and I can't feel it because I can't get enough fingers down there.
yea they make a super .....................................................................................................................................................................
long extension for this job,it's not a loaner tool tho... ask around. you are young and skin grows back.
Lower the trans tailhousing slightly. That should give you line of sight and make the job easier. You'll still need a bunch of extensions.
Youd have to drop the torque arm to lower the back of the trans. This is the exact reason my 89 c4 track car had a few extra body plugs in the firewall.....
I think i rtv the bolt in a ratcheting box end the first time. Used it to get it lined up and tightened, and then yanked it free.
At least i think it was the c4....
If wearing gloves I put a rare earth magnet in the end of the finger so the bolt sticks by magic.
I think the "lower the tailshaft " trick might be the right answer.
To reach the upper bolts on my Jeep, I had to remove the center console and then used about four feet of socket extensions and a universal joint through the shifter hole.
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