RealMiniParker said:Pete Gossett said:
I was never a fan of those wheels. But, I've never seen them on a C4. My opinion is changed. They look great on a C4!
I agree. And the coll thing is they are cheap. I picked up 1 set for $100 and another for $125. We put 4 17" inchers on Pete's car with 275 40 17. That leaves us with a set of 4 18" to mount 315 auto cross tires on all 4 corners.
In reply to Pete Gossett:
Oh, don't get me wrong, I think the yellow wheels were pretty awesome, too!
In reply to Ovid_and_Flem:
Sweet deal. I'll keep that in mind, for when I get a C4.
Took it to the store again tonight, and fortunately when I returned to the car the windshield wasn't fogged up, so the heater core bypass was definitely a success. Then again, there isn't much else that could have been fogging the windows.
In reply to Pete Gossett :
Heavy breathing? It's an issue with C4's I hear.
mazdeuce - Seth said:In reply to Pete Gossett :
Heavy breathing? It's an issue with C4's I hear.
Or a Lack Thereof
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
From all the contortion that's required for getting into & out of the car?
Heck Seth, I thought you were talking about the Engine. Lol
I pulled the passenger door panel & hooked the outer door handle back up to the linkage. I also disconnected the electric lock solenoid & removed the remote hatch button since it didn't work anyway. Unfortunately I still can't open the door from the outside, it seems like the linkage isn't quite in the right spot. However, since you can't really see in there at all, and I could barely fit one finger up there at a time, I'm not too surprised.
The plastic retaining clip had broken, which I figure is probably why it came apart in the first place. So I'll try to source another one before I dig back into it again.
Also, after spending time with the (mostly functioning) car, and really realizing how electronically advanced it was for its time, I've decided I'm going to pare down the electrical system to the bare minimum.
At this point I know I'm not going back to the stock TPI setup, so the whole engine wiring harness can go. As cool as it would be to have the stock Atari dash working, that'll cost ~$300, and will only be semi-functional with the TPI gone.
So I'm going to (eventually) pull the ECU, TPI and dash wiring; remove the stock heater core and A/C system; leaving the exterior lighting, power windows, and wiper circuitry intact. At that point I'll redo the dash with aftermarket gauges, add an in-dash heater setup(I really don't need much), and an aftermarket A/C system. I think in the end I'll save a few pounds too.
Of course this will be later - I need to go through the suspension next, but I might wait a year on that.
ya know I have an extra 85 that already Has ALL that Removed if you want to sell that one. It was a Manual but the guy kept the tranny. NOT a D D candidate.
In reply to GTXVette :
I'm not going to hack this one up too bad. It'll still be a fully functional car...actually it'll be more functional than it is right now.
If I had room for it I'd take you up on your offer though!
Dumb question time... There's only 2 lines that connect to the heater core on an SBC, correct? One from the bottom of the water pump, at an angle to the passengers side, and the return to the front of the intake, right?
I just got home from running errands. It's in the 60's so not too cold, but after both stops I came out to find the inside of the windshield fogged over again. I didn't purge the coolant from the heater core when I disconnected it, I just let it drain, but even if there's still coolant inside it would be at ambient temp & at atmospheric pressure, so there's no reason it would fog the windshield, right?
At this time of year in the Miata it'll fog the inside of the windshield until I put heat on it for a min. So might just be normal.
Happens to us as well. Little heat, set to defrost, lowest fan speed setting.
The more angle to the windshield, worese it is in my experience.
I want to try some the anti fog stuff for helmets on a windshield. See if it cures the probem.
In reply to Stampie & Dusterbd13 :
Interesting, Does it happen to you guys while driving, or only after the car has been parked a few minutes? In the Vette it's never been while driving, only after I park it & come back 5-10 min later.
I have no neat, nor fan, so I'm not sure what the solution would be. I may try tossing a rag over the defrost vent just to see if it helps.
This is usually say 1/2 mile from when we take off in the morning. Just a light fog. Now in the fall there's a heavy fog that hits at the same time. That's best to use AC to get rid of it.
The inside warms up (from you, the transmission, exhaust...) and you are giving off moisture through your breath and skin. The warm air holds more moisture than cold air, so when you park it, the moisture condenses on the cold window as the inside cools back to ambient.
Also depends on where you park. Moving through cooler air than you parked in will cool a windshield over the first five minutes and if the relative humidity in the car is right it will flash to fog. This happens in the Volt right now because it's just warmer enough where I park it. Super annoying.
Back in my college days I bypassed the heater core in a V8 Pinto Wagon I was driving at the time. Except it was winter. In Canada.
I had to drive with the windows open, otherwise my breath would freeze on the inside of the windshield. I drove with one hand, sitting on the other to keep it warm, and then switch hands. Scraping the ice off every so often.
Heater cores are good things, I have (a marginal) one in the V8 Firefly.
Hmm...looks like I may need to order one of those electric hotrod heaters sooner rather than later.
Parts arrived, I guess it's time to get back to work. Ok, so it's nothing exciting, but these clips should allow me to reattach the passenger's exterior door handle rod & make it functional again.
In reply to Pete Gossett :
Where and how much. Those are exactly why my driver door handle moves when the interior handle does. And only opens the door if you lift half the car.
And maybe why my door locks don't work.
In reply to ValourUnbound :
I found the GM p/n online, then ordered them from this eBay listing. The GM# is 20007898, and apparently their common use is on heater control rods.
In reply to Pete Gossett :
Yes, should be only two hose connections to the heater core. The coolant inside the heater core would only be exposed to the engine compartment, not the defroster vent. I'm assuming the heater core has male ends that extend into the engine bay. I suspect the fog on the windshield is from you? I've always had the older piece of M36 M3 cars that didn't have the a/c compressor hooked up to dry the air in the defroster, so they always fogged up unless I had a window cracked open.
Pete Gossett said:In reply to maschinenbau :
Ive notice a couple times, especially when it was cooler last week, or early morning at the Challenge, I'm getting moisture/fog out the defrost vents.
Is this related to the foggy windshield I wonder? Residual moisture from leaky top or condensation in the vent system?
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