tuna55 wrote: Perhaps something like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d3333/overview/make/chevrolet
If I'm spending that much, I might as well spend a bit more for these:
Found a set of BBK shorty headers for half the price of the Thornley headers that look promising. Original application is a 2010-up Camaro. I'll see if I can find anything else about someone using them for the swap.
MadScientistMatt wrote: Found a set of BBK shorty headers for half the price of the Thornley headers that look promising. Original application is a 2010-up Camaro. I'll see if I can find anything else about someone using them for the swap.
Use the original ramhorns as a template and have someone measure them side by side. Check 67-72chevytrucks.com for details, those guys are pretty cool as long as you stay out of the paint forum.
tuna55 wrote: Check 67-72chevytrucks.com for details, those guys are pretty cool as long as you stay out of the paint forum.
It had headers in the truck when I got it. I'm checking on that site now, and my truck would look rather out of place in the paint forum anyway.
MadScientistMatt wrote:tuna55 wrote: Check 67-72chevytrucks.com for details, those guys are pretty cool as long as you stay out of the paint forum.It had headers in the truck when I got it. I'm checking on that site now, and my truck would look rather out of place in the paint forum anyway.
I have ramhorns on my truck now, if you need measurements, PM me and I can provide them.
Got the Camaro manifolds in. No pictures as a surprise rainstorm stopped my work, but they clear the frame great. The engine stands, better than the original manifolds, but still need to modify them if I'm going to make it fit. Or find a set of V8 engine stands. Or different engine mount adapters and give up the truck A/C mount location. Decisions, decisions.
The stock frame stands hit the manifolds - but it looked like some cutting and welding could solve this.
Test fitting the manifolds, with the engine back in the truck and the modified stands. Everything clears now.
MadScientistMatt wrote: with the engine back in the truck and the modified stands. Everything clears now.
There certainly was.
Now, I needed a high pressure fuel pump. So, I put a Walbro GSS342 255 lph fuel pump with an install kit intended for a '94-'97 Mazda Miata on the end of the stock sending unit.
And sure enough, it fits in the tank like it was designed to go there. This is a test fit before I wired it up.
with that pump:
does the sending unit pick up parallel to the floor of the fuel tank, or horizontal, like a straw in a cup? cause im looking to do something similar for my mpfi conversion in the duster.....
In this case, it's parallel. And A-body fuel tank openings are about the same size, so it ought to fit. Here's what you would need.
The donor engine's power steering pump has the same threads on the high pressure line as the stock '72 Chevy pump. That was a pleasant surprise. Made plumbing up the steering hoses a lot easier.
MadScientistMatt wrote:
Dude! Clamp that thing to the table! Just takes one caught drill bit to rip it away from you, swing it around and tear your hand open. BTDT.
Funny... when I saw the thread title, the first thing that popped into my head was the Chevy Blazer Chalet (but couldn't remember the 'Chalet' name, just knew it started with a "C"...):
http://bringatrailer.com/2008/04/23/the-blazer-you-can-live-in-1976-blazer-chalet/
Yes, I used a C-clamp on the next plate I drilled, and I've added a warning on that one to the write-up.
I'm working out a wiring diagram for this install.
http://www.diyautotune.com/downloads/ms3-pro/ms3pro_gm_ls24x_wiring_diagrams.pdf
Also, it turns out that a mountain bike brake cable is the perfect size for an LS throttle body - and a lot cheaper than one from Lokar. Maybe not as shiny, but it looks like it'll work great.
Tried to get the transmission in tonight, and was having trouble mating it up. So, I took the converter off to check if it wasn't sliding into the flexplate right. It actually would - but I realized I had another issue: The bolt circle was totally wrong. I've heard of cases where the flexplate used an 11.8" bolt circle and the converter used an 11.7" bolt circle, but here, there's a difference of at least half an inch in bolt circle diameters.
Time to take a step back and figure out what's going on.
Measured things a bit more, and sure enough, I've got a torque converter with a 10.75" bolt pattern.
Ian F wrote: Dude! Clamp that thing to the table!
Getchoo one of these, I've had one for years and love it:
MadScientistMatt wrote: Measured things a bit more, and sure enough, I've got a torque converter with a 10.75" bolt pattern.
New adapter flexplate is on order and due in any day now.
The flexplate got the transmission in without a hitch (it helps if you seat the torque converter properly). I need to get some pictures of how it is now - it's getting pretty close to ready to start.
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