Make sure you get a really good round hole for the nutserts.
Make sure you get a really good round hole for the nutserts.
For the rubber brake lines, if I have a 2.5 inch lift can I still just order stock length? Or do I need to find longer ones?
So I got the new rubber lines and calipers finally. The passenger side is on and fine. When I put the driver side on there is a slow leak where the banjo bolt meets the caliper. I have the copper washers on the banjo bolt.
Do I try a new washer ? Take the caliper back to auto zone, and get a new one?
New washers top and bottom. Make sure all mating surfaces are flat.
Tighten the E36 M3 outta it if it still leaks.
Update. Went back to autozone to get some new washers. They didn’t have any in the correct size, but they did order me a new caliper and rubber line. The caliper came in, they forgot the line.
Finally everything came in. I put it all on.
Used this YouTube tutorial to help me bleed the brakes.
the results are very good. Pedal feel is much better. It doesn’t jerk to the right when I brake anymore.
As a former Jeep guy I love seeing CJ projects. My biggest headache with both CJs was wiring issues. My last 83 had been spliced and chopped so much it gave me migraines.
Keep up the good work.
In reply to octavious :
Thanks.
It always seems like it is something with the CJs, maybe all older cars. On my drive to work today my volt gauge looks like the alternator must not be charging. So I guess that is next on the list.
Update
so about a month ago took jeep to autozone tested alternator it was bad so I replaced it. Ran good after that. Finished fitting the YJ rollbar.
Next took rollbar back out and spray painted black
Then put on the best top roll bar pad. Very nice quality, much easier to put on with two people. I struggled with it for a while by myself. 
Also installed a bestop trail max 2 seat. Also very nice. I just need two more bolts for the rear mounts.
For the record nutserts are my new favorite thing. I wonder why I never knew about them before.
After getting the roll bar done and the back seat most of the way in, I have been having some issues with my radio cutting out randomly. It would just restart. Then back off, then back on
So I found the negative clamp on the battery was Loose so I tried to tighten it just a little more and it split.
Put a new clamp on the cable then changed the oil and then let it idle for a while to be sure I had no extra oil drips.
went to drive it to work today , started off great. Radio was working, then all the sudden power is cutting in and out. The tachometer, oil pressure gauge and voltmeter start all going haywire. Super loud back fires. Then nothing.
I pull off off to the side of the road. And try to start finally after 5 mins it starts. But continues to have some serious issues.
Gauges still crazy and backfiring almost trying to stall out.
After another pull off to the side of the road, I limp it back home.
Any ideas on where to start hunting this down? Obviously seems electrical in nature. But where to look first?
Cool CJ7, I haven't seen a CJ as nice as yours in many years.
The electrical problem might be easily solved by wiggling wires. Here is how I would do it... First, get a helper. With the engine off, turn on the headlights and have the helper watch the lights. Start at the battery and just start wiggling wires... As soon as the headlights blink or dim then you know you are in the right spot. The problem might be under the hood or under the dash, but you will eventually find it.
since (1) the negative terminal was crap and (2) you didn't mention doing anything to the positive terminal, i'd start there. Make sure both ends of both battery cables are clean and secure. after that, Doc Brown's advice is good.
Thanks doc. And angry good advice. I went out tonight and the ground at the block was covered in grime so I started there. Cleaned it up and made sure all the connections at the battery terminals were tight. Took it for a 20 min test drive, was better but still not right.
I will try the lights and wire wiggling when I can get a helper.
This is is a video I took this morning. When starting it up on the side of the road after stalling out for the second time.
So I had a chance to check this out a little more tonight seem I’ve found at least one wiring issue. Thanks to the help here. I turned on the radio and started wiggling wires.
I got what I think is the starter solenoid. And when I wiggled one wire the radio would kick off then back on. Almost every time.
looks like two wires come out and into a wiring loom, and then maybe on the the fuse block. Still need to chase that down. One causing the issue green one in video looks like it has been repaired before.
what is the right way to fix this? Take apart connection and just splice in a new wire?
Do I need to chase the whole wire and replace the whole thing?
It’s hard to tell exactly what the situation is but it looks like the starter solenoid. I would replace it.
A. They’re cheap
b. They go bad frequently
c. it will let you clean up all of the connections
Also, there might be a wire tap on the radio wire (a little plastic box that has one wire in and two wires out (the original that is tapped and a new wire that gets power from the first.). It’s a fast and hack manner of getting power.
That could be bad or you could have a wire that is broken within the insulation. Or any number of other possibilities. But there is definitely a problem there.
I had a '79 with a 304 and would always have an extra solenoid bolted to the firewall just in case.
Thanks. I am planning to buy a new solenoid. Still wondering about cleaning up the wiring on it as well. I took off the heat shrink that was on it and it looked like this 
so I need to fix that too. What is this connector called? And can I just go back to good wire and splice another piece in?
You can replace that with a standard ring terminal. And yes, just go back to solid wire and splice another chunk in of same gauge wire with a good mechanical crimp.
Should I use the same type of connection to make the splice as the previous person did? Or is there something better to use.
An insulated butt connector is what was there before. It is a perfectly adequate connection with proper crimping. They make heat shrink insulated butt splice connectors which are a step up from that. After that you go to uninsulated butt splice connectors with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Any of those options will be perfectly adequate for this repair assuming proper crimp
Since last update I was able to rewire the shorted wire. That has fixed the issues I was having. I did buy a new solenoid, I will just leave that in the parts box just in case I need it. Thanks for the help.
Now I have moved on to the dimmer switch. I bought a new switch and when I was going to install that, the connection to that is partially melted as well. 
I am planning to cut off the old connection and put a new one on.
I tried finding it online is this what I need?
https://m.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-connector/jeep/cj7
here is what the old one looks like separated.
that is the new switch
Honestly, insulated female spades from the parts store crimped on is cheaper, easier, and just as good as the $9 replacement connector. Unless you just want to be anal.
Thanks duster that was good advise. I got the female spades, spliced them in and now have both high and low beams.
I used to run a shop specializing in custom wiring harnesses for street rods. Been down this road once or twice. I'm glad I can help
Long story short, sold this Jeep about 1-1.5 yrs ago.
Person I sold it to contacted me and I just bought it back.
I was driving it to get a speedhut digital gauge (speedometer, water temp, fuel) installed and driving down the road just died on me. No stumbling or anything.
Since the old guages didn't work, it may have been running hot, or out of fuel? Not sure
Added some fuel and waited about 10-15mins and it started back up.
Anyways got the new guages installed and drove home fine.
I guess I will just see if it does it again.
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