In reply to The0retical:
This is why I will never discourage wild swings into the unknown in my threads. You never know what kind of quality information will pop up. Thanks for that.
In reply to The0retical:
This is why I will never discourage wild swings into the unknown in my threads. You never know what kind of quality information will pop up. Thanks for that.
The0retical wrote: In reply to NorseDave: That's pretty much what we were taught by the FAA. Since my ability to be employed revolved around following their practices that's what I did.
Not to mention stuff with wings and propellers falling out of the sky if you didn't follow the directive. We thank you for that.
In reply to Jerry From LA:
My lame running joke with car people when I'm asked why I insist on torquing everything is "The side of the road is a little further away for an airplane." It's one of those things where it's a good practice in general and when incorporated into your routine you'll never forget to torque a fastener.
The moment you get away from those types of procedures on airplanes it has the potential to make the "Swiss Cheese Model" a reality. I don't ever want to be that guy and have to live with knowledge that I contributed to an accident. That's compounded by the whole go to jail or no longer have a job bit since the A&P is a certificate the FAA could pull at any time for any reason.
So my cars get treated the same as the airplanes. Takes longer but I rarely worry about the quality of my work. Of course, there was that Koni Yellow/camber plate situation a few weeks back. That'll be rectified as soon as I pick up a torque stick.
In reply to mazdeuce: Don't underestimate the importance of the fuel injector hold down bolts. I have a 4.4 liter V8 BMW on which one of the fuel injector hold down bolts was stripped during reassembly when the fuel injectors were being replaced under warranty. The stripped bolt held two adjacent fuel injectors in place. Over time (about 8,000 miles) the two steel fuel injectors vibrated in their bore, wearing an unrepairable groove in the aluminum head, ultimately requiring replacement of that cylinder head at great expense to BMW, since they were the ones who had done the warranty work. A lot of heartache caused by one stripped 10mm bolt. The two affected cylinders were pushing a small amount of unburned fuel past the Teflon seal out of the cylinder on the compression stroke, which explained the fuel smell the car always had after shutting the engine down but that I could not trace to a leaking fuel connection. After the leaking injectors got bad enough it set a check engine code and the problem was identified.
In reply to mazdeuce:
New subscriber, enjoy the thread immensely. Could this be an option?
In reply to icguy75:
That is an option and one I should seriously consider. Thanks for chiming in and I'm glad you're enjoying the adventure.
mazdeuce wrote: A friend who I trust about such issues recommended that I buy 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches from CDI and just use them for proper work. They are ordered and should be here Friday. Mrs. Deuce has semi-ordered me to just buy a new intake manifold. I do like a woman who takes charge, but since it's basically the last part to put on the motor before it goes back in, I have a few days to think about it. NOHOME is brilliant and I will start carrying Dynamite to extinguish engine fires. This habit should serve me well as I start shopping for used Lamborghinis.
Status report on search for mag welder: Saw comment from 2500_Cummins_Ram about jdwheels59@gmail.com he found in Houston. Well, it is 2 miles from me! Emailed your pics, and went there. It is a small wheel repair place. We talked about the pics. SAYS he can do the repair, grind down, weld around the boss, fill the hole, grind, drill and tap the threads (needs the bolt to match tap threads. Could do the insert plan (who has the insert?). COULD DO the "bridge over troubled waters" plan. Wants to know if defect goes thru piece? Get it to him early one DAY -done that day. He welds a bit waits and welds more, etc. to avoid warping. NOT open Sat. $85. I could meet you in Woodlands,take it to him, and get it back to you same way. I think my body shop used him to repair my mini cooper wheel last month.
SENT PIC and talked to Mike at Mike Hood's Marine Propellers 6907 Telephone Rd He could weld, no drill and tap - $80. I will go by his shop. THINK IT OVER.
Karacticus wrote: Last 1/2" torque wrench I bought was branded CDI through Amazon. Nice wrench, mid $ when compared to Snap-On, spendy when compared to Harbor Freight. Apparently they are owned by Snap-On now.
I have one of these and I'm very happy with it.
There exist dial-adjust torque wrenches that you don't need to turn down. This is what I use at work. They also make the most delightful "PING" sound 
Although to be honest, digital ones that can also measure angle are getting downright cheap...
In reply to ronniejay:
The defect doesn't appear to go through the piece. Let me strip down the manifold this weekend and I'll get back to you on Monday. This sounds like a plan worth pursuing. I owe you a beer.
Snap on tech angle are all I use.
I'm not sure if anyone noticed, but the timing case is big and complicated and has a LOT of sealant that needs to be in the right place. My biggest concern is placing the part accurately once my beads are down and the clock is ticking, but I've got a plan.......
Off with their heads!
A little love on the grinder.
Pick a hole on each side and...assembly dowels!
They do just what they're supposed to do. They also let me perfect my zip tie and scrap wood chain holding.
This will make putting on the timing case easier, but I also have M6 bolts for putting on the oil pans. Those have nothing to locate them at all and I'll be putting them on the bottom of an engine hanging in space which is when they'll really be important.
And just as I was making that last post, these guys showed up a day early. I'm rapidly running out of excuses.
Ohhh those look nice 
Good work on the dowels, so simple and will be a huge help
Those CDI torque wrenches look remarkably similar to the early 90's Snap-On torque wrenches.
I often need long alignment bolts, threaded rod will also do the trick for a job like yours. I even have t-handles welded onto a few pieces that I use on a regular basis.
After putting the timing case on, putting the cylinder heads on (not tightening the head bolts) I started to put the timing gears back in the head. Then I realized that the double row timing chain had hopped over on the crank and was only on one gear. Because of a strategically placed piece of the casting, you can't just hop the chain over. So the heads came off, the chain case came off, I re-cleaned all of the surfaces, put sealant back on (didn't take pictures either time) put the chain case back on, checked the chain on the crank from the bottom about 30 times, put the heads back on, still not tightened, put the timing gears in, and used Slippery's tool to spin the motor. And it all works. Finally.
I need to emotionally reset before I tighten the heads down.
Yay! Thats good progress!!
It's kind of a big deal. The whole engine is built around the block and timing case. Once those are together, once the heads are on, it's just nuts and bolts and electrical connectors. I'm cautiously excited.
Wow. It's really gonna happen.
Woo hoo!!!
This IS a Good Friday! I am almost as excited as I get when there's a new Project Binky episode just released. Looking forward to seeing the engine stuffed back in the van!
Looking great!
Awesome!
Five part torquing procedure for the head bolts. 10Nm, 50Nm, 90 degrees, 90 degrees, 90 degrees. I made up cards for each bank for each step and mark the bolt off as I tighten it.
And the heads are back on with 20 good bolts. Yay!
You'll need to log in to post.
