Sweet. So the intake is the last big hurdle to reassembly/install?
Sweet. So the intake is the last big hurdle to reassembly/install?
Good job. You should sleep better tonight.
Timing chain tensioner back in, 75Nm
Found my E12 socket which has been missing for a while. I knew it would turn up. 
Also read through the torque specifications for the M6 oil pan bolts. 10Nm. My new 3/8 torque wrench bottoms out at 16Nm. So now I've ordered the 1/4 inch one. Mrs. Deuce said "well at least you have the whole set now" which isn't true, there is still the big 3/4 drive and an even smaller and finer 1/4 drive. I don't think I'll tell her about those. 
And finally for today I'm 99% cleaned on the oil pans. I'll give them a final inspection and wipe down before I put them on.
oldtin wrote: Sweet. So the intake is the last big hurdle to reassembly/install?
Unless I find something else while assembling things, yes, that's about it. I'm going to explore getting it fixed locally because the GRM part of me can't quite stand to just throw it away.
Dude that's awesome, maybe by the time I end back up down there you'll have it all back together.
Hope you can find a way to fix the manifold. Another possibility along the lines of NoHome suggestion would be to through drill and thread the hole, and install a bolt from underneath with appropriate load spreader and epoxy. You end up with a stud, instead of a hole. If you do it, might be the appropriate place to put your signature.
Scrubbed down the top of the intake manifold this morning and removed everything I could remove. There are two plastic pieces that will not come out. They snap in blindly, and since none of this is meant to be serviceable the parts aren't available if I break something. I'll just have to check with the welder to make sure they are going to be far enough away from the heat.
Cleaned up the oil filter housing.
Cleaned a few more things, sorted parts,looked at the cam tools in an effort to understand how to get them back in the heads properly. Got the hoist ready. Also Easter egg hunting and helping the boys learn to run power tools for their woodworking projects.
In reply to ronniejay:
I sent you a message, let me know if it made it to you.
I am fighting myselft whether I should offer up to help with the intake manifold or not (mostly on fears of berkeleying it up) ... but here it goes ...
If the welder route does not pan out, message me. I will clean up the broken stud and rethread as far as possible before breaking through the other side. I'll make the new standoff with new threads that you can thread into it.
The last thing I need is to help you get it closer to a paperweight ... but I also want to help get it back on the road.
BTW whomever it was that came up with the standoff idea, thats genius.
Well, it's broken. It's already a paper weight. I'll get back to you this week about it. Full warning, you're dangerously close to getting your name on top of the motor.
Firdt weistec, now slipperywerks.
MazD.....was thinking about your torque situation during reassembly while doing the mundane tightening of lug nuts on the 'V' yesterday....the multi step process you described earlier I can grasp, but educamateme on the '90deg' scenario at your convenience.....tanx. with the exception of the broken fuel rail land this is great to see....
mazdeuce wrote: In reply to ronniejay: I sent you a message, let me know if it made it to you.
got it. sent you a reply.
In reply to 759NRNG:
Just what it sounds like, put the wrench on and turn the handle through 90 degrees of arc. Pretty common on torque to yield bolts. You tighten to a certain spec and then X number of degrees more.
In reply to 759NRNG:
You might find this article to be an interesting read on torque to yield or angular torque values.
As the torque goes up, friction starts to affect things, the angle torque eliminates the effect of friction. The angle torque actually works better to get the correct tension on the bolt.
When I use tty bolts, I use a beam type torque wrench when I do the degree part. It helps to see how close the bolts are to being the same torque. They are usually surprisingly close....
Deuce....
Is now a bad time to remind you that you said to remind you about vinyls for OneLap?
-Hans
The more I read this thread, I wonder if the terms class action lawsuit means anything to MB.
Because that headbolt choice is on them. It was a design flaw.
Your assembly dowel idea is utterly brilliant. I am stealing this idea.
mazdeuce wrote: Cleaned up the oil filter housing.
That's not a crack line right in the center there is it? Casting mark? Dirt?
MazD & ECM.....thanks for the info 
In reply to RedGT:
Casting flash. If you rotate the piece in the light you can see it had a five piece (at least) mold. If you make every single part as perfect as you can you end up with a $53k motor.
FlightService wrote: The more I read this thread, I wonder if the terms class action lawsuit means anything to MB. Because that headbolt choice is on them. It was a design flaw.
They had one brought against them for the cam/lifter issues. Those were way more prevalent in the early cars though most of the failures were early and under warranty. If Porsche can walk away from the IMS issue which has a much higher failure rate, I wouldn't expect anything to come of this.
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