Thats funny... so legally , no I didn’t steal it... he signed the title over.
just in case, I just saw this post today that might be interest to someone hunting parts or build It’s in Gainesville fl.
Thats funny... so legally , no I didn’t steal it... he signed the title over.
just in case, I just saw this post today that might be interest to someone hunting parts or build It’s in Gainesville fl.
Damn, that's a pretty killer deal for a non-rusty Gen 1, especially one that runs and drives. I'm happy it's not a 2-door, else I'd be annoyed at you posting that ;)
Sorry, this is the first forum I have ever joined... All the Junk I buy, play with and sell never intrigued me like this little mitsi
ill go back to reading and watching the build... can’t wait to see it finished!
boodaroo said:Sorry, this is the first forum I have ever joined... All the Junk I buy, play with and sell never intrigued me like this little mitsi
ill go back to reading and watching the build... can’t wait to see it finished!
lol, no I was just kidding! You'd be hard-pressed to find a Gen 1 two-door for that price in running/non-rusty condition. Even broken rustbuckets around here seem to fetch twice that. I was just saying i'd feel silly if that was a 2-door and I could have gotten it for that price - but since it's a 4-door I don't feel bad ;)
Continue to post at will!
Also, if you want to read about Mitsu trucks, join up on the Expedition Portal forum. The Mitubishi section there is pretty active: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/mitsubishi.94/
In reply to irish44j :
Thanks! Makes me feel better... I’ll check it out.
So quick correction to an earlier post about riding Jeep trails with the Montero, I think it should be... there were some jeeps on the montero trails... y’all, these little machines are awesome!
Spent some time today cleaning up the transmission crossmember and the transmission linkage attached to it. Overall it's all in pretty good shape but figured with it just sitting there, might as well scrub it and paint everything.
I disassembled the linkage and cleaned up the bushings and repacked the grease boot on the end that attaches to the crossmember. So I have a quick question: At the crossmember end, there is a grease boot with two springs inside of it, an a washer and circlip securing it at the end. All seems to work fine but this was pretty gunked up. Looking at the "lip" on the crossmember section it goes through, I'm thinking there's supposed to be some kind of rubber "cap" on it or something to keep grease from getting out and grime getting in. Can anyone confirm?
After cleaning it all up figured i'd bolt it up loosely just to get it out of the way. Oddly, none of my M12 1.5 or 1.75 bolts would work. Seems it uses M12 1.25 or some other fine thread. So I had to go hunting for the OEM bolts. The p/o, when the engine was removed, basically dumped all nuts and bolts into a coffee can, which was full of rusty stuff, greasy stuff, and leaves (?). So I dug through there and found the right bolts for the crossmember (well, 5 of the 8 I needed) and got it bolted up
SO here's what was in the coffee can:
Decided to throw them in my ultrasonic washer (yeah, Harbor Freight!) and clean up all that stuff, not knowing what I'll need or not going forward with this project. Since I didn't take all this stuff apart, i literally have no idea where any of these bolts go, so will have to figure that out.
Interestingly, almost all the bolts are marked on the head with either a number or a symbol. Most of them are numbered 4, 7, or 10 (with an 8, a 9, and a few with a circular symbol, with or without a vertical line inside it). The markings do not correspond to size, but seem to be some kind of "parts group." Did Mitsubishi specifically mark all its bolts as to what part of the car they go to? Anyone here have a "key" to the bolt numbering that could help me figure out where they go? Looking at sizes I'm guessing the "7" group may have to do with the engine/transmission/bellhousing, since they look to be that general size, but who knows. Any assistance would be much appreciated. The German cars I usually work on certainly have nothing like this.
In reply to irish44j :
Those are material tensile strength grades. The higher the number the higher the tensile strength. Most European metric bolts are marked as well, usually "6" or "8.8" and sometimes "10". The big difference between Japanese metric and European metric is the thread class. To summarize, the Japanese discovered that a loose thread fit makes them self locking. Note how they "snap" loose. The Euro hardware is much closer fitting, which sounds great, but they really rely on the friction at the head face to stay tight. Of course up here in the rust belt all hardware is self locking
TurnerX19 said:In reply to irish44j :
Those are material tensile strength grades. The higher the number the higher the tensile strength. Most European metric bolts are marked as well, usually "6" or "8.8" and sometimes "10". The big difference between Japanese metric and European metric is the thread class. To summarize, the Japanese discovered that a loose thread fit makes them self locking. Note how they "snap" loose. The Euro hardware is much closer fitting, which sounds great, but they really rely on the friction at the head face to stay tight. Of course up here in the rust belt all hardware is self locking
EDIT: Finally found something on some 70s japanese car forum...
The linkage does have a rubber cap
Thx for the confirmation, I did some digging in the FSM and found that as well. Now, to figure out what the part number for it is......and for the bushing between the two small springs that is apparently supposed to be there. Old Mitsubishi random parts aren't seemingly as easy to look up as old BMW or Porsche parts :)
How long have you had Rustoleum under the Sequoia? I'm trying to figure out if I should do something fancier (Rust Bullet?) on my recently acquired tow monster, or if the trusty Rustoleum is good enough- it always gets gravel blasted off the rally car before it has a chance to rust...
Looks like a great start to an awesome build! We love our Gen 1 2.6L, but a V6 auto would certainly be nicer on the trails and street.
When I was a bit more ambituous and curious, I wanted to swap our Gen 2 to a 6G75 but quickly abandoned the idea as a Gen 2 Xterra comes with a much stronger 4.0L V6 and hit the easy button. I was starting to compile some info on engine swap information on the ADD forum here:
https://forum.adventuredrivendesign.com/index.php/topic,280.0/topicseen.html
If you're looking to keep it in the 6G family, the 3.5L SOHC seems like the most durable swap available (as compared to the DOHC SR motors). For most power, the 3.8L DOHC MIVEC (came in 3G eclipses and others) would be the ultimate swap and likely most complicated.
Heres the copied info from the thread:
Montero Engines
3.0L 6G72 SOHC 12V 1991-1995
151 HP
174 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Cheap?
-OBDI
Cons:
-Least powerful engine offered in gen 2s
-6G72 block/heads/parts not interchangeable with 6G74
3.0L 6G72 SOHC 24V 1996-2000
177 HP
188 ft-lbs
Pros:
-24V improves power over 12V 3.0L
Cons:
-6G72 block/heads/parts not interchangeable with 6G74
-OBDII, more diagnostic sensors
3.5L 6G74 DOHC 95-96
213 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Top-end power, and power potential
-DOHC cool factor 
-Parts interchangeability with 3000GT/Stealth engines (turbos!!)
Cons:
-Complexity, reliability, cost vs. SOHC
-Powerband for offroading (higher in RPM range than SOHC)
-OBDII with a multitude of diagnostic sensors
3.5L 6G74 SOHC 96+
200 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Most desirable for 3.0L vehicles
-Simple and reliable
-Many applications for engine parts compatibility
-6G75 crank fits in block for stroker engine (would need new pistons?)
Cons:
-Less HP and top end than the DOHC 6g74 variant (and less cool factor!)
3.5L 6G74 2001-2003
200 HP
235 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Slightly more torque than Gen 2 3.5L SOHC
Cons:
-Wiring complexity
3.8L 6G75 2003-2006
215 HP
248 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Most powerful engine offered in Monteros
-6G75 crank fits into 6G74 block
Cons:
-ECU and TCU integration (? confirm) may necessitate swapping engine and transmission together, along with wiring harness for both systems.
-Cluster from Gen 2 would need modification to work with CAN bus system, aftermarket tach/speedometer may be easier, or CAN bus display
MightyMax swapped
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSjpa22Gj20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIANCaJdwyg
Resources:
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=40816
https://www.rpw.com.au/6g75-engine-conversions-now-available-5-september-2011/
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/149274-Gen-2-5-3-8-Swap
Non-Montero Engines
3.5L 6G74 SOHC 96+ Montero Sport
200 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Easy to find!
Cons:
-Some wiring harness differences possible?
3.8L 6G75 MIVEC 2006-2012 Eclipse/Galant
263-265 HP
260 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Highest HP 6GXX offered in US
Cons:
-Possible conflicts with engine accessories going from a transverse mount to longitudinal
-Likely uses CAN messaging for engine and transmission signals
Resources:
http://4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1038626.html
JDM Engines:
6G74 DOHC MIVEC 3.5L (Pajero Evo)
276 HP
256 ft-lb
Pros:
-Evo Power!
Cons:
-Cost, complexity, parts are rare
4D56T Diesel (Intercooled variant) 1992-?
136 HP
236 ft-lb
Pros:
-Diesel torque
-Turbo!
-Available in Gen 2 JDM vehicles, swap would be easy with engine, harness,
Cons:
-Accessory parts are unique to 4D56T (intake air box, etc.)
-Requires finding a complete donor vehicle to make swap feasible
Non-Mitsu Engines
Toyota 1UZ-FE Engine
251-300 HP
260-310 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Potentially bolts onto gen2 transmission (confirm?)
-V8 noises
-Toyota reliability
Cons:
-Timing belt
Resources:
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=23804
http://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=4099&sid=565eb9229e64266028460d516b1fb5bd
http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=39108
LS1 5.3+ 1996+ Anything Chevy
270-315+ HP
315-338+ ft-lbs
Pros:
-Plentiful
-V8 noises
-Cheap
Cons:
-Requires full swap of engine, transmission, transfer case, custom driveshaft.
-OR custom transfer case adapter ($1000+) to adapt 4L60e to 31 spline transfer case
Resources:
Boodaroo that is a riducluous find, not many left like that!
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:How long have you had Rustoleum under the Sequoia? I'm trying to figure out if I should do something fancier (Rust Bullet?) on my recently acquired tow monster, or if the trusty Rustoleum is good enough- it always gets gravel blasted off the rally car before it has a chance to rust...
The Sequoia frame wasn't painted until just recently (with POR-15). But its rusting issue was from the inside out, not from the outside. Toyota made some poor structural decisions in a few areas, with an "inner frame" inside the main frame, which of course collected dirt and salt and stuff and caused the frame to rust from the inside in a few specific areas (only on the driver's side on mine). No paint would have stopped that....from the look of mine it had been rusting from the inside for a decade before it came through. All cut out and patched now, but yeah....
The Raider is just getting Rustoleum, since it's not rusty.
engiekev said:Looks like a great start to an awesome build! We love our Gen 1 2.6L, but a V6 auto would certainly be nicer on the trails and street.
When I was a bit more ambituous and curious, I wanted to swap our Gen 2 to a 6G75 but quickly abandoned the idea as a Gen 2 Xterra comes with a much stronger 4.0L V6 and hit the easy button. I was starting to compile some info on engine swap information on the ADD forum here:
https://forum.adventuredrivendesign.com/index.php/topic,280.0/topicseen.html
If you're looking to keep it in the 6G family, the 3.5L SOHC seems like the most durable swap available (as compared to the DOHC SR motors). For most power, the 3.8L DOHC MIVEC (came in 3G eclipses and others) would be the ultimate swap and likely most complicated.
Heres the copied info from the thread:
Montero Engines
3.0L 6G72 SOHC 12V 1991-1995
151 HP
174 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Cheap?
-OBDI
Cons:
-Least powerful engine offered in gen 2s
-6G72 block/heads/parts not interchangeable with 6G74
3.0L 6G72 SOHC 24V 1996-2000
177 HP
188 ft-lbs
Pros:
-24V improves power over 12V 3.0L
Cons:
-6G72 block/heads/parts not interchangeable with 6G74
-OBDII, more diagnostic sensors
3.5L 6G74 DOHC 95-96
213 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Top-end power, and power potential
-DOHC cool factor
-Parts interchangeability with 3000GT/Stealth engines (turbos!!)
Cons:
-Complexity, reliability, cost vs. SOHC
-Powerband for offroading (higher in RPM range than SOHC)
-OBDII with a multitude of diagnostic sensors
3.5L 6G74 SOHC 96+
200 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Most desirable for 3.0L vehicles
-Simple and reliable
-Many applications for engine parts compatibility
-6G75 crank fits in block for stroker engine (would need new pistons?)
Cons:
-Less HP and top end than the DOHC 6g74 variant (and less cool factor!)
3.5L 6G74 2001-2003
200 HP
235 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Slightly more torque than Gen 2 3.5L SOHC
Cons:
-Wiring complexity
3.8L 6G75 2003-2006
215 HP
248 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Most powerful engine offered in Monteros
-6G75 crank fits into 6G74 block
Cons:
-ECU and TCU integration (? confirm) may necessitate swapping engine and transmission together, along with wiring harness for both systems.
-Cluster from Gen 2 would need modification to work with CAN bus system, aftermarket tach/speedometer may be easier, or CAN bus displayMightyMax swapped
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSjpa22Gj20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIANCaJdwyg
Resources:
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=40816
https://www.rpw.com.au/6g75-engine-conversions-now-available-5-september-2011/
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/149274-Gen-2-5-3-8-Swap
Non-Montero Engines
3.5L 6G74 SOHC 96+ Montero Sport
200 HP
228 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Easy to find!
Cons:
-Some wiring harness differences possible?
3.8L 6G75 MIVEC 2006-2012 Eclipse/Galant
263-265 HP
260 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Highest HP 6GXX offered in US
Cons:
-Possible conflicts with engine accessories going from a transverse mount to longitudinal
-Likely uses CAN messaging for engine and transmission signals
Resources:
http://4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1038626.html
JDM Engines:
6G74 DOHC MIVEC 3.5L (Pajero Evo)
276 HP
256 ft-lb
Pros:
-Evo Power!
Cons:
-Cost, complexity, parts are rare
4D56T Diesel (Intercooled variant) 1992-?
136 HP
236 ft-lb
Pros:
-Diesel torque
-Turbo!
-Available in Gen 2 JDM vehicles, swap would be easy with engine, harness,
Cons:
-Accessory parts are unique to 4D56T (intake air box, etc.)
-Requires finding a complete donor vehicle to make swap feasible
Non-Mitsu Engines
Toyota 1UZ-FE Engine
251-300 HP
260-310 ft-lbs
Pros:
-Potentially bolts onto gen2 transmission (confirm?)
-V8 noises
-Toyota reliability
Cons:
-Timing belt
Resources:
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=23804
http://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=4099&sid=565eb9229e64266028460d516b1fb5bd
http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=39108
LS1 5.3+ 1996+ Anything Chevy
270-315+ HP
315-338+ ft-lbs
Pros:
-Plentiful
-V8 noises
-Cheap
Cons:
-Requires full swap of engine, transmission, transfer case, custom driveshaft.
-OR custom transfer case adapter ($1000+) to adapt 4L60e to 31 spline transfer case
Resources:Boodaroo that is a riducluous find, not many left like that!
wow, great stuff. Surprised I haven't run across your thread while around the ADD and Expedition Portal forums over the past month. Will definitely have to go through all that and give it some thought!
Nothing to contribute ... except that I've always loved the SWB Pajero/Montero/Raider. Will definitely pick one up one day.
Following along! :)
FWIW those "square locking" bolts for the front bumper diamond plate are called carriage bolts.
java230 said:Following along! :)
FWIW those "square locking" bolts for the front bumper diamond plate are called carriage bolts.
lol i know, it was just a brain fart when I typed it and I didn't want to think any further haha.....I already got new ones from McMaster (looked up via "carriage bolt" ;)
--
Other engine comment: The 4G7x series engines were also used in a lot of 90s Hyundai Sonatas, which apparently also drop in pretty well with an oil pan swap and a couple other things. So that is yet another option for where to get an engine. Really not something on my list until at least the summer, but just noting it to keep it in mind.
Do you mean 4G6X? If so, lots of info here on RWD swaps.
A 2.0L 4G63 probably wouldn't do too well off road, but a 4G63 stroker 2.3L, 4G64 or G4CS 2.4L with a tiny turbo would be a blast!
There's also a guy in Ohio who builds custom bell housings for 4G63 bolt pattern (both narrow and wide block) that adapts nearly any trans you can think of.
engiekev said:Do you mean 4G6X? If so, lots of info here on RWD swaps.
A 2.0L 4G63 probably wouldn't do too well off road, but a 4G63 stroker 2.3L, 4G64 or G4CS 2.4L with a tiny turbo would be a blast!
There's also a guy in Ohio who builds custom bell housings for 4G63 bolt pattern (both narrow and wide block) that adapts nearly any trans you can think of.
misprint, sorry , I was referring to the 6G72/6G74 used in Hyundais for a while. Since this Raider was a V6, the easiest way is just to do another 6G7x series engine that will bolt up directly to my transmission. I have no interest in messing around with turbo, I spent a while looking for a V6 Raider/Monty specifically because I want V6.
Oh yea, the 6G72 came in all sorts of things at the time; chrysler minivans, 3000GT/Stealth..full list but there probably are same variations in power levels between applications:
1990–2001 Mitsubishi GTO (aka Mitsubishi 3000GT, Dodge Stealth)
1989–1995 Plymouth Acclaim/Dodge Spirit/Chrysler Saratoga
1987–2000 Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager
1990–1993 Dodge Ram 50
1988–1993 Dodge Dynasty
1988–1990 Dodge Raider
1991-1996 Dodge Stealth
1990–1995 Chrysler LeBaron
1990–1991 Chrysler TC by Maserati
1988–1989 Chrysler New Yorker
1990–1993 Dodge Daytona
1992–1994 Dodge Shadow ES
1992–1994 Plymouth Duster
1986-1992 Mitsubishi Debonair
2000–2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse
1999–2003 Mitsubishi Galant
1988-1990 Mitsubishi Sigma
1990–1998 Hyundai Sonata
2001–2005 Dodge Stratus/Chrysler Sebring Coupe
1990–2002 Mitsubishi Diamante
1991–1996 Mitsubishi Verada (Australia)
1993–2001 Mitsubishi Magna (Australia)
1990–2006 Mitsubishi L200
1990–1996 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
1988–1997 Mitsubishi Pajero (aka Montero/Shogun) (Japanese and Middle East markets)
1997–present Mitsubishi Challenger (aka Montero Sport)
1994-2007 Mitsubishi L400(aka Space Gear)
It is a good torquey motor, we have a Gen 2 Montero with the early 3.0L SOHC version. It's a Long wheel base so its kinda pokey, but I could see it being a lot of fun in a SWB Gen 1. I'd keep an eye out for the latest year possible you can find. I'm not sure if newer versions came with a coil vs. a distributor, so that may add some difficulty to the swap requiring a new ECU, wiring harness modification, etc.
I'm very jealous of those Gen 1 "pomengranete" wheels, they're really hard to find!
I do love those wheels. Oddly, there are several cheap Moneros around here with them. Hell, a guy up in NJ with a running (very rusty) Gen 1 basically told me I could have the whole truck for $400 (inclding those wheels and a second set). My bad luck not having room for any more cars here, c'est la vie.
Seeing that stock truck intake plenum on top of a 3.8 Mivec swap is a little cringe-y, lol. I'm sure it's still fantastic compared to stock.
My plan for mine is just to turbo it. It would be cool if it made V8 noises but realistically i know that since it's already fun to drive, with 150-200hp and the manual I'll pretty much be thrilled and forgot about all the other things i could have done.
Got off my ass into the cold garage tonight and after cleaning up, wanted to check out a few things. First of all, needed to get the transmission out of the back and onto a dolly. This isn't a big deal with most of my cars - lifting up most manual transmission isn't too bad - but man, this slushbox is heavy, especially with the TC on it. So after a bit of creative positioning of my highest-lift floor jack I managed to wrangle it out, onto the jack, and down to the floor, with tenuous balancing in full effect....
Took a bit of time looking things over. The shifter and transfer mechanisms seem to work fine. Stuck the rear driveshaft on and moved things around and the action feels smooth, no odd noises, etc. The PO obviously had an engine issue and had been driving the truck, so I don't have any reason to think the transmission is bad, frankly, so I'm not too worried about it. In the near future I'll replace all the input and output seals, open the fluid pan and change/clean the screen and re-seal that, and make/get some new gaskets for a couple of the transfer case orifices. I also will check the resistance of all the sensors on the transfer case. One of them the wires are broken off (I'm betting someone forgot to unclip the sensor when dropping the transmission) so will fix that up as well. Other than that, will clean stuff up.
I also noticed the input end of the rear driveshaft, where it goes over the splined output on the transmission, is not in very great shape on the outer surface.....a good deal of rust on there. I'll have to see how well I can clean this up because I need a smooth surface for the rear seal to....seal. The driveshafts clearly sat outside with the engine, so while the u-joints feel fine, the flanges are pretty rusty on the polished surfaces especially, which is annoying.
The one issue I am having is the lower transmission mount. The rear mount is pretty widely available, but I can't seem to find this big thing ANYWHERE online. (plenty easy to find the 4-cylinder part though, for some reason..) The metal components are in good shape, but the two big rubber blocks are pretty mushy and gone. I may just have to see about finding something reasonable to replace them, or perhaps I'll just form some new ones out of low-stiffness urethane. We'll see.....
Otherwise, cleaned a bunch of parts, mostly mounts and other things related to the transmission, which weren't terribly dirty but I like things to be clean.
With the transmission out, I pulled up the carpet (the floor underneath is in excellent condition, for what it's worth) to open up the fuel tank. Mostly just wanted to see how much fuel is in the tank.
So looks like about half a tank, which is good. The tank does look to have a bit of rust inside, hard to tell though. Once I drain it and drop it I'll plan to have it cleaned out and coated, since you can't exactly buy new tanks for these things.
I will say, one nice thing about the project car being just a giant box, is that it's way more useful than my other project cars for storing stuff out of the way in the garage. My new OMP race seat for the rally car sits nicely in the back seat, lol...
So I'm going to apologize in advance, because in most of my automotive builds, the threads start pretty slow as I take stuff apart, clean stuff, paint stuff, etc. Once that's done I start getting into some of the more fun stuff. But that's a while away on this thing, so I hope you'll humor me as I document the more mundane things (mostly for my own reference/motivation, not that you guys really care about things I painted, lol).
Anyhow, yesterday I "drove" teh car for the first time. Well, kind of. I wanted to turn it around so I just jumped in and let it coast down the driveway and made a turn into the cul-de-sac. Then a neighbor helped me push it back up the driveway facing the other direction. This will make it easier to work on the stuff I want to work on this winter - i.e the front of the car and engine bay.
The bumper has a few bent areas like someone tried to drag the car with a chain wrapped around it (must have missed the giant tow hook right below). Hopefully I can straighten that out....
Anyhow, last night I took apart much of the front of the car. Bumper off, along with the hood latch, center brace pieces, the auxiliary electric fan (took a while to figure out where the plugs were in the wiring!), and some other things in the front/middle of the car. Spent some time cleaning stuff in the sink and will paint stuff when I get a chance.
Probably the rustiest part of the truck, which is just surface rust really.
I did find one little "actual rust" area, so there you go, up on the front valence. Even that isn't very bad.
I also noticed a small area on the front of the passenger-side frame just under the core support that looks like someone welded a reinforcement plate there or something. This is where the steering linkage attaches (on the other side) so I wonder if the metal was fatiguing or cracking or something. Only way I even noticed it was that whoever did it left some weld splatter..Either way, seems fine and can't really be seen with the front end stuff together...
So, got out the wire wheel, cleaned up, and painted it all. So, it looks nicer.
non-sequitur, saw this interesting rig today, in a parking lot. Pretty neat little setup.
Got a warm-ish day, so cleaned up the bumper, pulled the swaybar and cleaned it up, and did some painting. I also ordered pretty much everything I need to refresh the front end, other than shocks....so a bunch of bushings, balljoints, and all of the steering linkage pieces that have balljoints. I'll do a brake system order at some point (boy, that stuff is cheap), but I want to pull the calipers and see if I should rebuild them or get some new ones.
Photo of the front suspension for posterity and my own future reference. The balljoints and bushings feel ok, but they look pretty old to me and suspension and brakes are my #1 thing to be in top condition, so will just replace everything.
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