Looking at the bell housing, it looks like it could be a sbc Bell.
Looking at the bell housing, it looks like it could be a sbc Bell.
wvumtnbkr wrote: Looking at the bell housing, it looks like it could be a sbc Bell.
SBC has a peak in the middle at the top, Fords are flat. The Chevy's used a hydraulic clutch too I think. The bell looks SBF, does it mate up to the 302? There are bosses for the holes that would probably match the T5 you have, but the register is throwing me off.
I think that may be a SROD bellhousing which would also fit a Tremec 3550 or TKO.
okay, checked... it's either an SROD or a Ford Motorsport bellhousing for a Tremec (interchangeable) which means it has some value on Ebay if nothing else. You could modify it to work but it probably wouldn't be cost effective. There are bolt holes that would have to be weld filled, faced, redrilled, and the bearing retainer locator part has to be milled out just a bit for the larger T5 retainer bearing.
I wonder if that's the bell from in front of my tko?
Im assuming you got it from brother dustin?
If so, let him know it ain't right. He'll probably refund you.
In reply to Skervey:
There is a foxbody place down the road from you? Man you are in in south...
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Yep I got it from brother Dustin, I know he would be fine with taking it back but I may see if someone will trade for the correct one.
In reply to fidelity101:
Yes im in the south and the mustang is "king" but its nice because we don't have the issues with rust like yall do.
Well called the foxbody place and they don't use the tremic TKO so they don't want my bell housing... But they do have one for a T5 for $90 witch is less than most on CL so I may go grab one tomorrow.
In other new the rotary motor is getting sold today, They guy in going to put it into a drag car maybe twin turbo!
at least it lives another day!
Yep don't think I hate the rotary, I wish they were as reliable and as plentiful as the V8. I had a few good offers on the motor but people were going to use it for parts or just hid it away in there own stash. I would have kept the rotary but iv always wanted to do a v8 swap and HP is much cheaper with a v8... I guess that's what we get for living in muscle car land...
Skervey wrote: I wish they were as reliable as the V8.
In road racing events they are MORE reliable than the V8s. Ask me how I know (it involves not wanting to replace another damn engine in teh malibu!)
Ya for road racing with no valves and less parts and tuned up well iv heard they are amazing. But for me it will be sitting for a week or two then driven hard then sit for a bit longer. There are plenty of guys with foxbodys as weekend cars that run good they flog on them on Sunday then sit under a cover for the rest of the week, witch will more than likely be the life of mine. Also the after market for the 302 is HUGE! Almost any part you want they make it.
The 13B is gone and never again to live in the RX7... Kinda sad but its to make way for an awesome build! I thought I would share some photos of the parts I have picked up! Not everything but its a little glimpse of whats to come!
Mustang accessory brackets, AC pump, alternator, 90' plug wires, holly fuel pressure regulator, 50oz fly wheel.
Standard and light starter, aluminum starter plate, water pump plates.
BBK shorties (Should work on the gt40p heads)
Lots of pulleys... water pump (mustang) power steering pump (explorer) gt40 intake (keeping for one day efi)
BIG thanks to Dusterbd13 for help on the parts I would be weeks behind if I didn't get his help! Still thinking about the serpentine setup looking for a good setup for alternator, water pump and thinking about heaving power steering (why not?) So need to find the easiest setup for that either using explorer or mustang timing cover. I think this will be the easiest setup. I know where I can get a mustang timing cover and I already have mustang brackets.
Still waiting on the oil pickup, UPS is taking there time. Im going to grab new gasket for the oil pan as well as new valve cover gaskets. I got some aluminum valve covers that I had the oil fill tube cut down and tig welded at work today but no pictures of that yet.
Looks like brother dustin was a good stop.
You still want carb and dizzy?
These cars have amazing steering if you just depower the steering rack the proper way (welding the pinion and removing the piston seal).
Hope everyone is having a good New Years! Im at the Avett Brothers show tonight!
I picked up a T5 bell housing today it was coverd in oil but i guess that keeps the aluminum from oxidizing, should be easy to clean up in the parts washer. It also came with a clutch fork. I am probly going to mod the T5 to be a hydro clutch. As far as the rack I dont know if I would like to run power yet or not. If I can run the belts like I show above then I will run it. Might as well. I will have to get the other "box" of goodies from brother dustin as well as the mustang timing cover.
Also got the title today so she is all mine! Hope it passes the inspection with the v8! Its a newer motor then the stock motor witch should help. I will just have to find someone that thinks its a cool car and will help me out.
And yes Dusterbd13 I think I'll grab the carb from you. What carb is it again? I'll do some research on it to find out about tuning and parts ect. I think I'll grab the dizzy from Dustin he had a nice setup with a MSD and a nice hot coil. I still have to go grab the mustang timing cover from him as well.
The oil pickup is coming from Canada so it's not going to be here till next week. But the plan is to get the mustang oil pan on bolt the trans to the motor as well as the headers and drop it all into the rx7 to start to get an idea of where the motor mounts will go and if it will fit under the hood! I also have to do some rust repair on the frame. So I guess I'll start grinding on that to see how bad it is then start to repair it. Also thinking about painting everything under the hood a gloss rustoilium gray so I will be able to see any leaks down the road.
Also on the fence about the flywheel. I want to get a light aluminum one but I already have a nice stock one. From what IV read the light flywheel is hard to start off from a stop and a bit harder to get the feel for but much better for high rpm and fast hard shifts witch is what this car will see. No drag racing here just auto x and more of less hooning so lots of wheel spin 
Aluminum flywheel ain't bad on the street, even with a honda d series.
Carb is a 600 cfm carter afb.
This is of interest to me again. Good luck with the project. I'm picking up TWO FCs soon. In my defense it has been a few years after I swore I'd never own another one.
Well Got a good bit done yesterday! I hope to do the same again today!
First got the new T5 bell housing (left) all cleaned up it was soooooo nasty.. Clutch dust and oil make a mess.
Even got it onto the trans for some test fitting. The funny thing is the trans to bell housing takes metric bolts and the bell housing to motor takes standard.... They are trying to make this as hard as they can.
After that I pulled the pan off the motor. It was very clean but a little slug down hiding in the bottom.
All of the under carige looked good I could even see a good strong hatch marks in the bore so this was definity a low miles motor. All in all very happy with what I found.
The foxbody pan is on top and the explorer pan is below it. (I hope this is the wrong foxbody pan because im having issues with it fitting around the steering rack)
Then while loosely installing the foxbody oil pan for test fitting (still waiting for the pick up tube) I had a bolt brake in the block...
So I got it all bolted together and stuffed the motor and trans into the car, this was the first issue. The swaybar and the oil pan need to be in the same place..
So I unbolted the swaybar and moved it out of the way and still couldn't get it as low as I wanted to...
It looks to me like the motor needs to go back and down about 3" to be even close to where other peoples 302 are. Maybe the granny speed kit does something I don't know about... Anyone with any help please chime in, I need it!
Grabbed some more photos of how the motor sits.
This shows my hood clearance
Here are more photos of the granny speed kit. It still looks to be a little bit lower and further back...
Almost looks like you need a rear sump pan to get that placement.
That's what im afraid of...
I sent an email to granny speed after a long talk with my dad about the project. I think with amount of time spent and all of the mistakes and mishaps while trying to build my own mounts I can just order them. It will mess up my budget big time but it will save me time in the end. So I asked to see how long it will take to get a basic kit so I hope he emails back soon and I hope I can get it fast to keep things moving.
I think I would try to get the entire oil pan behind the steering rack.
wvumtnbkr I would love to do that but that would take firewall work... But it would probably have 50/50 weight and lower and lots of other good things but that would mean, TONS more work, no heater, have to pull the dash and mess with all of them wires.
So I took the easy way out.. Talked to Grant over at granny speed. They are able to move the swaybar more forward to clear the pan. So after talking with him iv got a kit coming its for a 302 and T5 with power steering should take a week to get built (fingers crossed). It just the basic kit I think I can have a drive shaft made local for a bit less and im going to do my own aluminum radiator and all the other bits. Here is a photo sent from granny speed that shows the stock swaybar moved farward to clear the oil pan.
There is also a swaybar that Quickor makes that looks like this.
Lots of other things to do in the mean time. Still trying to figure out the belt drive. Looks more and more like im going to put the mustang unit on there for the ease of parts. Was not planning on pulling the harmonic balancer and get that deep into the motor but I guess It will have to be done. I think I have about $100 of parts in my cart on rockauto for gaskets, water pump, dizzy (im going with a stock unit because it is the lowest for the right price) I hope to get the other brackets and mustang timing cover and power steering pump from brother Dustin this week.
I also need to clean up the block, any tips on rust removal? Im going to paint the block black with some por 15 since it was highly recommended. (Black because the food blue is just wrong under the hood of an rx7)
Take it outside. Plug ALL ports. Soak with castrol superclean. Scrub. Rinse. Repeat at least three times after you yhink its spotless.
Do not skip the metal ready.
And black is evil to see leaks on. Look for a grey or red.
Maybe gold or silver. ..
if you haven't figured out your belt routing yet this is how i did mine:
the alt bracket was off of some 5.0 (cant remember what year/model), the alternator is a 3g from a taurus converted to a 1 wire set up, and the tensioner is from a f150 with a efi 4.9 which pulls the right direction to keep the belt tight. the bracket needs a little grinding and a hole drilled to clock the tensioner like this:
then its just a matter of finding a belt and its good to go
I am not sure how well that belt would last. I would think the adjustable locking jaw pliers would not go around teh pulleys too well. 
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