Exciting developement this morning. A friend who races IT7 has a 13B with RB intake, Webber DCOE 48 with 40 mm chokes, race header and exhaust that he's willing to part with for the handsome price of FREE.
Only down side, it needs a rebuild and apparently a squirrel tried to live in one of the rotors. Still worth it! So now I have a perfectly good running 13B and another needing a rebuild. That means I can take my time and build a real race engine.
If it is an IT7 car that means it is a 1st gen, right?
If so, the first gen 13B is different than the second gen. I think you will have to change the front cover to get it to bolt in the second gen.
If you are using the carb / intake setup from the race motor there wont be an issue. If you try to run the 2nd gen intake on it, it will need to be modified.
Have fun!
Rob R.
It's actually a 2nd gen 6-port. But it has a first-gen distributor so I can go without the ECU completely if I want. I think he bought this for a couple parts only and now has no use for the remainder.
IIRC some of the factory Ford 302 throttle bodies are approx. 2x52mm. Perfect start for a MS setup on that intake. 
I'm awful with wiring so I really don't want to mess with megasquirt. I'll either go carb or MicroTech LT8 when the time comes. This engine will be getting a rebuild anyway so I have time to decide.
I'm also thinking bridgport if the internals are in good condition.
MrJoshua wrote: IIRC some of the factory Ford 302 throttle bodies are approx. 2x52mm. Perfect start for a MS setup on that intake.
The throttle spacing is different, BTDT. Same with the 2x48s that Chevy used on the LT1 engines. I bought... a few... of those a while back, and some DCOE manifolding for engines I don't own yet.
There is, however, no reason you couldn't bung a TPS on the Weber and disconnect the fuel line and use it as a rather expensive throttle body.
Any ideas on how to get this thing out of the bed of my truck without an engine crane?
The missus isn't strong enough to help me manhandle it.
In reply to DaveEstey: Back truck bed into garage. Ratchet strap it to ceiling. Slowly drive truck out from under it.
Or slide it down some boards/ramps.
Six pack or two and invite neighbor over.
I know of a local (to me) place that will rent you out an engine crane. It's a big, heavy-duty jobber that will have no problems lifting a rotary. I used it to offload my two 13BTs I got from St. Louis.
I'm going to explore ramps first. Got a number for the rental place if that falls through?
PM sent.
Used a ladder as a ramp. Worked great! Now it gets to sit while the rest of the car gets finished.
I don't know how these things make any power at all with the stock exhaust.
Left stock: RacingBeat Race header: Custom Race header
I'll be using the RacingBeat unit.
While I was in there (dangerous words) I took the stuck 6th port actuators off and lubed them up. The sleeves were sticky too, but working them around a little seemed to free them up. Good thing, because I didn't want to pull off the intake manifold.
Also scored a dual EGT reader and sensors to plug into the header so I can see how each rotor is running individually.
Don't know if you need this but: Sell your cats
They were very easy to deal with and beat local pricing.
I hadn't even thought that far ahead. Thanks for the link
Lots of people will tell you to just wire the 6 port open. From personal experence, not a good idea, the engine will lose bottom end torque which is not overly abundant to begin with, not idle well and if they are wired closed it will lose a fair amount of top end grunt.
The setup uses pressure, not vacuum, to open the 6 port and it gets that pressure from the air injection pump. Since mine doesn't have the pump any longer, I used a MSD RPM switch with a 3500 RPM chip, a vacuum solenoid robbed from the 'rat's nest' and a cheap 12V tire pump to make an RPM activated pressure setup. It works fine, the engine has decent bottom end and revs out well, my only gripe is the pump is noisy as hell.
I have found a vacuum operated heater valve I can steal the vacuum actuators from and at some point I'll convert mine to vacuum operation.
The race header has a bung welded in to provide pressure to the actuators so I think that won't be an issue. Generally I won't be below the RPM where the ports are closed anyway.
Had a good Christmas too!
Hope you all had a great holiday as well!
Let me know your injection setup because I would be VERY interested in your 48 DCOE because my mikuni 44phh is just too small and the next build is going to be a little more rad...
I was going to run EFI this season and make some decisions next winter. I have some guys saying go carb and others saying stick with EFI unless you feel like effing with the carb every spring trying to get the car to fire.
Class rules let me do just about anything I want to the engine barring turbocharging (counts as double displacement) so I want to make a really hot little engine with the spare.
Long story short - shoot me an offer and I'll consider it.
In reply to DaveEstey:
well I wouldn't really be able to purchase it until feb/march. I must fix the truck so we can. but I could do something like 200 dollars if its in functioning order.
DCOE means it has a cable choke on it correct? I believe the DCO SP does not. I still like having the ability to start it in 0 degree weather for ice racing and snow rallyX.
I cannot attest to the weber functionality but I hardly have to touch my mikuni, every now and again I just turn some screws back and forth and make sure everything isn't gummed up. The only issue I have is that sometimes the float has stuck causing it to flood the carb. But then again the car gets driven 12 months out of the year or at least started up every few days.
I'll take some closeups today and post them. I've never run the engine so I would likely rebuild the carb before trusting it fully, but it should be in good working order. The guy I got it from is a trusted racing buddy and he's in a different class so there's no need to sabotage me haha.
I believe there's a cable operated choke on it. It's breathing through 40mm venturis right now but they're in lousy shape and should be replaced.
In reply to DaveEstey:
yeah but the jetting should be close to what I need, proper accel pump and etc. doing gaskets and chokes isn't a huge ordeal. There is more literature and support for weber carbs than mikuni. Most people think I have a snowmobile when I start talking about mikuni lol.
What was the general engine build and porting that it was used on?
but I would be def interested in it in the near future.
Don't know what the inside looks like yet since I haven't torn it down. I do know it's a S4 6th port, full RB exhaust. They had the actuators wired open because one of them was seized up (I fixed it with marvel miracle oil).
I think the engine was likely over-carb'd.
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