In my search for a engine to swap into my 83 AE71 Corolla, I came upon this 93 SC400
All SC400s had the 1uz. It “ran when parked” about 6 months ago but they thought it had a fuel pump issue. It was cheap enough and close enough that I went and picked it up.
Plan is to get it running and trouble shoot everything while still in this body and then swap into the corolla.
Picture of them side by side.
I jumped the wires on the OBD1 port for the fuel pump, and heard the fuel running through the rail.
So not fuel pump. I checked the codes and got a passenger side ignition problem. Pulled the coil, reinstalled the same one and got this:
Maybe running on 4 I think. So I stopped and pulled driver side coil, sounded the same so I thought when I pulled the wire to the passenger coil it wouldn’t start.
But it started right up and still sounded the same.
That is all the further I am, cleared the codes. None have poped back up
next stop cleaning the maf, and if I am brave enough pulling the ecu, opening it up and checking for leaky capacitors
I like the Jeep, I had a 78 with the same stripe over E36 M3 brown. 304 manual.
I'll be sad when you bust this one up. It's my favorite color, and seems to be rust free.
In reply to akylekoz :
They were probably pretty similar. Mine is a 79 v8 3speed.
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Yeah, car was originally from Alabama, still had the Alabama title when I bought it.
I am secretly hoping to really like it once i get it running and just drive as is, but it is now car number 5 for me.
And now my building is full.
Somebeach said:And now my building is full.
This is no excuse. I'm working on 9 and the only one that fits indoors is the one I cut up into pieces 
SWMBO says double digits is a line I can't cross, but I'm willing to call her bluff.
Somebeach said:In reply to Indy-Guy :
Yeah, car was originally from Alabama, still had the Alabama title when I bought it.
I am secretly hoping to really like it once i get it running and just drive as is, but it is now car number 5 for me.
And now my building is full.
If you get it up and running, and want to unload it, I may be interested...
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Will keep it in mind.
The adventure continues
So took out airfilter, was a rodent home for awhile.
Next went back and tried the unplug pass coil again this time no start. Tested the plug wires on the drivers side that come from the drivers side coil, if that makes sense. No spark at plug wires. Tested the wire that goes from coil to distibutor, with a rigged up coil that I know works ( PO rounded off one of the bolts holding coil onto block. ) have spark to distributor.
Next up check the cap and rotor I think.
Anyone know if I have to take off the bottom plastic cover to get the distributor cap off?
also when pulling the plug wires to check for spark I noticed I have some “gunk, maybe semi liquid “ in my spark plug holes. Which are fairly deep any recommendations on how to clean those out?
Can see gunk evidence on the plug wire.
Compressed air. Wear safety glasses, or at least don't look down the hole while you blow stuff out of it.
Oh...this swap is going to be good!
Somebeach said:Anyone know if I have to take off the bottom plastic cover to get the distributor cap off?
Technically yes, but I was able to cheat one off and back on with only removal of a couple of the top bolts of the bottom cover. Saved a few steps that way.
I've been elbow deep in a few 1UZ and one 3UZ engines so might be a tiny bit of help if you get stuck on anything.
In reply to dculberson :
Thanks for the reply, I will try it that way first.
If I magnetize the socket or the wrench I plan to use to get that bottom bolt out ( so it doesn’t fall all the way down into the timing belt cover if it falls) that won’t hurt the distributor in any way will it?
The bolts holding the distributer cap on will unscrew, but be retained in the cap. they won't fall off into the timing cover. You can seek the dis. cap off by removing the upper bolts on the lower timing cover, but it's almost easier to remove the belt, and pullys to just get the cover out of the way. You'll likely need to redo the timing belt and such anyway before swapping.
Throw the hydraulic cooling fan mess in the trash.
As he says the screws are retained. No issues using a magnetic screwdriver though. And I never had an issue with the hydraulic fan.
Thanks.
On the replacement cap I got they are not retained, unless I am missing something. So i will see what it looks like. It good to know taking the old one off should be easier if retained
Also in preparation on doing this I found a shop manual at this site
https://cardiagn.com/ignition-91-00-sc300-sc400/
but it is not printable. Any one know of a printable resource.
Another thing you can do is stuff a rag into the lower timing cover so if something does fall it doesn't go far. Just remember to pull the rag back out!
The plot thickens .........or shatters. So I pull off the distributor cap and as I do I start to see so pink residue. I wonder hmm what is that and Then I get the cover all the way off. And I see......
I took off the cover and swept up all the little bits with a shop vac.
Where do do I go from here, just go ahead and Install the new cap and rotor I got? If so put it in the same way? Or could this have been in 180* off?
any help is appreciated.
Is there a flat on the shaft so the rotor can only go one way?
Well the good news is, I think you found the problem.
In reply to Patrick :
I think I read the rotor can go on either the correct way or also 180 degrees the wrong way?
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Yeah I would say it would be the issue.
I wouldn't be surprised if you found a dead mouse in the intake tract.
Got out tonight and put the new rotor and cap in. And it runs. I think firing on all 8.
defiantly have a exhaust leak
And is the fan fan supposed to run this slow?
next is to get some more jack stands and jack it up so I can take of the bottom splash guard. It is full of leaves and other stuff. Don’t want anything to catch on fire.
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