SkinnyG's 2010 Hyundai "Angry Accent"

Cutting and welding steel wheels to put in a hyundai econo-hatch is bonkers and I love it.

Well done!

I ran that 3/4" rear sway bar for about six months, and then decided I needed more cowbell.

7/8" bar (to be painted):

36" x 10"

Initial impression: grins.

WINTERS

Michelin X-Ice radials, on the original 14" rims.  In my part of Canada, a good ice radial is the ticket.

Really needs a limited slip (there is one on ebay for about $600, but the machining quality from the pics make my eyes hurt....).

KNOCK SENSOR

After the first oil change with the car (Mobil 1, 5W20), a P0328 code popped up, which means "Knock Sensor High Input." Not sure how you test that, and all was good before, so I replaced the sensor with a Hyundai one.

Code came right back. I messed around with the plug and connection to no avail. I could hear detonation while I pulled hills at speed. Wondering if maybe I broke the senso installing it, I ordered another sensor - this time Bosch (have not yet installed it).

I eventually did an oil change to Rotella 10W30 and the tappets got WAY quieter, and the code went away. I still have the Bosch one in a box.

HEADLIGHTS

The Accent takes a 9003 bulb.  One burned out, so I bought a pair. Interestingly, the bulbs I removed are unknown brand "Made in Germany" H4's, and I'm replacing them with Hella "Made in Korea" H4's into my Korean car.  I don't know if I should be excited or disappointed.

Note: I like how if I leave the headlights on after shutting the car off, the headlights stay on until I open my door.  I really like that feature.

AIR CONDITIONING

I know having AC on with Defrost is what all the cool kids are doing, but I honestly don't want that. I always run Heat/Defrost up here in a Canadian Winter, and I am perfectly happy doing so with no added AC.  Until I source a wiring diagram to figure out which wire to cut/bypass (or place a switch inline with), I pulled the 10A AC fuse from under the hood.  Bingo!

Note: Either my AC compressor is on its way out, or these pumps are just noisy.

I had always heard that you need to run the compressor periodically in order to keep it happy. I recall that on the Chev Cavaliers I owned in the past, the compressor came on  as soon as Defrost was selected. I always had good luck with the AC on those cars, whereas my brother had problems with his Fords, they had a separate switch for AC. 

Many years ago I needed wider wheels and a rear sway bar for an '87 GTI. I found some GM front bar and welded attachments on it to fit the VW twist beam axle. For wheels I welded Chrysler centers into some 7" wide GM wheels. It was easier than banding the K car steelies.

I have a Rio and just swapped my base models 22.22mm front sway bar for the stiffer accent SE 24.2mm one and so far I like it but may purchase a rear sway bar, if I can find an Ultra racing one inside canada.   Can I ask what you have for shocks and struts? I am looking at replacing mine with KYB and getting new springs as well, possibly H&R lowering springs.  Do you think your springs could hold up to having passengers without bottoming regularly? 

stock spring rate for that car is 117.3 lb/in and ~106.17 lb/in and the stiffest I can find  without using lowering springs is Lesjöfors and theirs are 147.3 lb/in and 114.2  lb/in, moog and everyone else's replacement springs are at the stock rates.  I can't decide if I want to go with lowering springs and hope they don't bottom all the time or stiffer stock height springs and hope the same..  I have a car stereo and it weighs quite a bit. 

The shocks are all stock, probably all original.  The Accent SE rear shocks are a different part number, likely valved stiffer - I will buy those when the time comes.

The lowering springs I have were the cheapest I could buy, and are about the limit of compromise between low and not having to change your shocks.  They are NOT a racing spring, and should really be a lot stiffer, with shocks valved accordingly.  If you're wanting to get serious, look into some sort of coilover (and I would shoot for front springs around 300lb/in or so.  My goal is only to have it low; these did that.

In reply to SourGrapes :

On the wife's old 2008 Rio we used H&R's. Never did it bottom out in the 3 years we ran them. She ran that car HARD. Front bar usually just makes the car want to push more. Adding a rear helps with rotation. We ran hers without a rear bar because she's not as used to rotatey cars as I am. She loved onramps. The 1.6 alpha with auto was not fast but if you never have to lift it doesn't matter. 

In reply to bobzilla :

What shocks were you running back then?

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

at the time the ONLY shocks/struts I could get my hands on were some cheapo Monroe gas-matics. they were ok but they didn't last long. About 30k a set. We put 60k on that combo in 3 years.

Yes, SuperPro has offset bushings for the front, which I would totally use for more caster.

While the KYB 348007 will certainly fit all Accents, it is the replacement for the SE shocks, and the ones I would get for the rear.  Mine desperately needs stiffer rear shocks.

One aftermarket source for rear sway bars (if you can't make your own) is Ultra Racing, and theirs is 16mm (~5/8").

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

the reason I am wondering whats going on with the KYB shocks is that all of the Rio models use the  348007 (the same shock listed for the SE) but there are different shocks on some of the accents and that shock has a slightly longer stroke for some reason.  I just want to make sure I get the stiffest shock possible. 

I was going to order their bar but its a smaller diameter than your first bar. Do you think that it will do much? I mean something is better than nothing. I was looking at their strut tower bar to as its a solid one piece bar.  

do the poly bushing cause as much vibration as people online say they do? I've herd everything from poly wearing out fast to being a nightmare with noises. I mean i can easily put some grease on bushing when i do an oil change... 

You're not going to notice a 0.2" difference in stroke.

I can't imagine a 5/8 bar being a dramatic difference, but I like my FWD cars VERY loose.  I'm quite happy with the 7/8" bar, but am still tempted to go even bigger.

I've run full poly bushings in my last three daily drivers (B13: 7 years, D21: 7 years, C10: 9 years), and really have no real complaints, but ride quality is subjective.  They squeak below freezing, can potentially wear causing movement, they do transmit more vibration; you get used to it.  I'm enjoying the more "insulated" feel of the rubber bushings in the Accent, but mine is 100% street, no autocross or track days or nothing!

In reply to SourGrapes :

Wife hates stiff cars and it was her daily. Road about like stock. Less bouncy and a little less roll. H&Rs have been my go to for all my daily drive korean cars minus one. The second gen accent had Vogtland springs that were amazeballs. Very Germanic. 

My Manzo springs feel just like stock.  If I didn't tell you it was lowered, you'd never know.

I still slow down for some big bumps, though...

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

We slowed down when the wife's 08rio was stock. It's a compact car not a lifted truck lol

Could also be habit.  ALL my vehicles have been lowered.

Never owned a lifted truck.....

In reply to eastpark :

I was under the impression that the A/C comes on with defrost in order to evacuate moisture from inside the car.  Essentially the same thing running A/C in summer does:  replace hot, humid air with cold, dry air.

I've never removed A/C from any of my cars that see street duty because of the cold climate here in CT and my belief in the above.

In reply to Loweguy5 :

Agreed. The older models you could push the ac button to turn it off. Windows would slowly fog while driving and I'd have to turn it back on. 00-03 accent and 01-03 elantra had that "feature". After both of their midlife updates that went away. Along with the ability to learn your own remotes without any scanners/tools. 

On my dailys with poly, I ran the bushings for years.  Y-e-a-r-s.

I went with steelies because it was the look I wanted.  Subtle but meaty. 

Be aware that most stock Miata wheels are narrow. It might look nicer but won't really help the tire a lot. Aftermarket 15x7 or 7.5 are silly cheap because the accent fitment is similar to civics, fits etc. 

I'm not enjoying those links.  I am trying really, really, hard not to go down the rabbit hole with this one. These links aren't helping.

(edit: I'm teasing)

In reply to SourGrapes :

Funny. I ran bilstein front and koni sport rears on my first gen forte sx