If this is a commuter than you do NOT want poly bushings. A.) they are stiffer and less compliant and make things harsh(er than it already is) and 2 they will require frequent lubing to keep them quiet and together. They get hot and worked and they will come apart. IF you're doing this for a daily, stock control arms and bushings in rubber and then fix the "vagueness" with alignment.
I know you're going to do whatever you want anyway but these are my words of advice, wisdom and experience.
In reply to bobzilla :
I mean it's kinda of to late to not go with poly bushings as I already installed Siberian bushings everywhere they were available, both chassis and suspension bushings. I wrapped all the metal parts of the bushings with Teflon tape and greased everything with energy suspension formula 5, that stuff ain't cheap and doesn't like to come off.. I had to wash my hands like 14 times to get it off them so if its that hard to come off my hands it should help the bushings ? lol
I am pretty sure Skinny said he runs poly in all of his daily drivers.
edit
also Siberian bushings aren't that much stiffer than rubber, I think they are they are roughly the equivalent durometer as stiff rubber bushings
I do, but they are not for normal people.
And no, the super sticky ES grease does not last in poly bushings, they really need to be re-greased every 6 to 12 months. As the grease leaves, they get "sticky;" they don't move well.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
tbh I think the only Siberian bushing that you can take apart is the large or front control arm bushing. they are already in there and I am not removing them, If i have to remove the sleave and grease it once a season fine whatever. I knew there would be increased maintenance but thats fine, its not like I haven't read/researched about poly bushings etc .
whats with the strange warnings all of a sudden? I don't remember ether of you purchasing parts for me or something.. the only PITA thing to press out would be the chassis bushings and I don't foresee them being a problem as they aren't going to be moving like a control arm bushing.
I am not sure how I would be classed as a normal person when I commuted to work on modified sports bikes for years..
Personally I am more concerned about the remanufactured steering rack then the bushings, I just want the thing to last 3 years of me driving to work.. I really wish I had just taken the chance and went with the Hyundai unit.
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:I do, but they are not for normal people.
I meant that in humour.
I also used to re-grease my poly bushings, but no longer do so. I will not be putting poly in my Accent, other than if and when I ever do caster bushings.
I guess what surprises me (I can't speak for Bobzilla) is how far down the deep end you're going with this in fixing every little thing. And I think I'm really only surprised because I don't think the car is worth that much effort. But then again, I'm pretty much the hypocrite in saying that, aren't I?
Will there be a "SourGrapes Hyundai Accent" build thread?
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
No you took the words out of my mouth. I'm turning the Rio into full finish time attack car and I'm not going this far for sure.
I didn't mean to go this far with the car it just kind of fell apart while i was replacing the shocks and springs, the subframe being full of holes and the power steering rack leaking kind of sucked. I did the bushings in the hopes it would make the car a bit more fun to drive and I have never done them in a car before so I wanted to try installing them.
I ordered some moog lower control arm bushings so hopefully those will tame the ride abit, I wanted to try those poly ones out but I don't want to have to press them out in 3 weeks or something. do you think keeping the small control arm bushing in is ok? its al lone piece so that shouldn't be a problem?
no I don't think there will be a build thread made by me as this is it for me with putting parts into this car, hopefully anyway. it should be getting an alignment early next week.
Wait, didn't you install poly lower control arm bushings already? I would not have ordered new bushings unless the poly ones fail. Yeah, the ride might be a little rougher, but you'll get used to it.
Or are you talking bushings you have not replaced yet? I'd only replace those if they have failed, not before.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I went with Siberian bushings because they are supposed to be just slightly firmer or equal to the factory rubber ones in firmness and yes they are already pressed in. I was going to see how much a garage will charge to press them out and install moog ones as I returned the press I got from amazon as the bearings that the rod threads into broke apart on me.
and no I am not going to bother with the engine mount bushing unless it or they break, there isn't any point and I need to get this thing on the road not waiting another 2 weeks for parts.
ok So I will return those new moog control arm bushings.. these Siberian ones are supposed to be fairly soft like quite a bit softer than energy suspension or prothane or whomever else. I won't have to repack the metal part of the bushing monthly or something just like annually or semi annually correct?
fyi the manufacture is stating the hardness of the bushings is "65 (shore a)" and thats pretty much the same hardness as stock bushings or slightly harder but way softer than most other bushings on the market. they feel more like a indian rubber ball than the rock hard bushings that were on the old swaybar.
https://siberianbushing.com/blog/2016/04/20/principal-distinctions-from-other-manufacturers/
I tried out my 3/4" SCH40 sway bar at today's autocross.
Mathematically it's 30% stiffer. Feels about 30% stiffer. I want more.
I will likely skip the 1" solid and go straight to 1" SCH40 for the perfect amount of giggle. This would theoretically 130% stiffer than the 7/8" bar I enjoyed.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I've never auto crossed but with the mods you have done are you still in the "stock class" can you fit Dot competition tires and compete in the class you are in now?
I am no longer in stock class, I am running in STS, and while my local club offers STC in their drop-down registration menu, I was informed that STC does not exist, wherupon I suggested they remove it from their drop down menu.
I can run a 200 treadwear tire. I am currently running 500.
My son and I were dead last at this event.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I know what autocross is and how it works but I know nothing about it if that makes sense.
everyone I know races at shanonville or calabogie, Ive seen some crazy purpose built Porsches on trailers going to calabogie and shanonville is a motorcycle track and abit more my background.
https://calabogiemotorsports.com/
calabogie track break down
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gn9Frx-lQR0
anyway I have my car pretty much buttoned up now , saying that I think one of my power steering lines, the nonpressure line is leaking at one of the crimped joints. those are like a million dollars so I am hoping its not leaking and it was just fluid from when I drained and flushed the lines.
In reply to SourGrapes :
Once you put on springs you are no longer eligible for stock classes. Intake also bumps you immediately and IIRC bushings as well unless OE replacements. All of those put you into Street Touring classes.
If you're leaking on the return side, you can use a pipe cutter and cut it below the joint, use a brake flare tool to put a small lip on the end and replace with rubber p/s hoses. If you're doing that, I can't recommend enough to install a metal cooler loop in front of the radiator/condensor. Just a 36" piece of metal line bent into a "U" works like a charm.
I'm running out of power steering in the super tight autocrosses here.
I found running a synthetic fluid helped a bit in a B13 Sentra I used to race. I may try that first.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
all of my hydraulic p/s cars had that problem. Amsoil fluid helped. Hyundai factory filled with their SPIII ATF which was terrible to start with.
Is everything you've done to this Accent repeatable on a Kia Rio of the same model year? I'm under the impression they look the same when they're up on a hoist.
In reply to bobzilla :
fyi anyone thats interested LESJÖFORS springs are %30 stiffer than oem and an exact oem replacement but in this case a 30% increase of almost nothing inst a lot. can You use spring spacers like these?
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/eibach/part-type/coil-spring-spacers
I am leaking from one of the crimped to rubber joints on the low pressure side. thanks dude , I am just going to do that, the hoses are crazy expensive for what they are.. I don't think I personally would require a PS cooling but I Was thikning about getting a filter for the power steering but those are like $40.
the springs are only %20 not %30
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
from what Ive researched the hyundais are the more upmarket cars so they may have stiffer sway bars and suspension or something, if you are into ordering parts on your own you would be advised to call around. all of my parts list both hyundai and kia part numbers but the price difference is CRAZY like a bolt from kia is $25 and from hyundai its $2.75 but I've had the reverse on some parts so check online before just ordering parts.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
Same car. No differences in the base models but the Rio SX had a slightly higher spring rate for the hatch (5 door hatch compared to the accent 3 door). Also the 2009-2011 Rio sx could be had with abs and rear discs up north but I've never actually seen one in the flesh.
In reply to SourGrapes :
There is no need for filtration on this small of a hydraulic system. You're not dealing with small orifices for valves and such so even if the fluid had a ton of debris it's not going to cause much issue. Plus the fluids primary purpose is to transfer power and not lubricate or cool, but keeping the fluid cool can help seals last longer.
In reply to bobzilla :
no the spring rates are not different the only place to get a stiffer stock length spring is LESJÖFORS and I am pretty sure that the only car that had stiffer sway bars was the Hyundai sport. also fyi the stock spring rate is really under sprung and the %20 stiffer LESJÖFORS is kinda useless.
unfortunately H&R refuses say what there springs are rated for and the H&R springs are massive compared to teh stock springs ..
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