PartsAndProjects
PartsAndProjects New Reader
6/2/20 12:51 p.m.

Anyone know where I may find something like this? It's a ferrule with 5/8-18 male threads, two flat sides, and a 3/8" center hole. Thanks!

 

Mndsm
Mndsm MegaDork
6/2/20 12:58 p.m.

I send people two places. McMaster Carr and Fastenal. Sometimes I get lucky and find it on Amazon. 

Ranger50
Ranger50 UltimaDork
6/2/20 1:40 p.m.

First and only question on silly E36 M3 like this is "why did you break/ruin it?".

pinchvalve (Forum Supporter)
pinchvalve (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
6/2/20 2:14 p.m.

One other place that I check is Tractor Supply. They have all kinds of weird hardware designed for fences, plows, farm implements, etc.

Ian F (Forum Supporter)
Ian F (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
6/2/20 2:19 p.m.

A little more context is required. 

It is it? What is it part of?

Finding a source for some obscure part often depends on what that part is. 

fidelity101 (Forum Supporter)
fidelity101 (Forum Supporter) UltraDork
6/2/20 3:12 p.m.

if it was metric, I'd suggest here:

 

https://www.belmetric.com/?zenid=daes93kkpd1c0sj4pehn01tdm1

 

if you can make a 3d Model of it I can print it in 316L stainless. 

iansane (Forum Supporter)
iansane (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Reader
6/2/20 3:24 p.m.
fidelity101 (Forum Supporter) said:

if you can make a 3d Model of it I can print it in 316L stainless. 

Whoa. /theodorelogan

GaryC83
GaryC83 New Reader
6/2/20 4:03 p.m.
fidelity101 (Forum Supporter) said:

if it was metric, I'd suggest here:

 

https://www.belmetric.com/?zenid=daes93kkpd1c0sj4pehn01tdm1

 

if you can make a 3d Model of it I can print it in 316L stainless. 

If he can take some accurate measurements I can whip up a quick .stl of it for you.  

 

I know he said the thread size and it has a 3/8" thru hole, but I need thread length. Width at the flats.  Height of the head. Diameter of the head, radius on the shoulder - if that matters, whether or not it has a counterbore or such for the thru bolt to sit on/in, etc. 

 

Shouldn't take long at all, and I need to do some modeling for a project of my own anyway. 

I'd probably start with a 5/8 bolt and just make one. A drill and a file would knock that out in less time than it would take you to find one. 

 

Ian F (Forum Supporter)
Ian F (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
6/2/20 5:04 p.m.

It looks like a brass bushing that locks into a plate for the inner part (that also appears to be a soft metal) to rotate on, so I don't know if using a steel bolt as a starting point would be the best thing.   

PartsAndProjects
PartsAndProjects New Reader
6/2/20 7:34 p.m.

Thanks for all of the replies. 

It's part of a hood release handle from a 1940 Plymouth clamshell hood. The ferrule installs into a hole in the side of the hood from the outside. The twist handle is inserted, then a nut secures it to the hood. The pivot that turns the rods that release the hood attaches at the end and is secured by another nut.

This is the underside (not my car, but same):

Here's the handle from the outside (again, not my car):

PartsAndProjects
PartsAndProjects New Reader
6/2/20 7:41 p.m.

Here is the whole mechanism. Ferrule is the first piece that slides on. The oblong hole on the panel behind it is where it goes.

GaryC83
GaryC83 New Reader
6/2/20 8:22 p.m.

How i would do it, and others are probably different in their approach, is i would machine a new 'ferrule' with a counterbore in it, setup to accept a replaceable nylon or self lubricating bronze shoulder washer for the handle to ride on. Sit it so it sits just at or slightly below flush of the ferrule if you want the handle to be "tucked" slightly into the ferrule with no chance of ever seeing the shoulder washer.  Throw it back together and be done with it. 

All you'd have to do is slightly increase the height of the head on the ferrule to make up for the depth if you wanted to sink it in and have a stepped counter bore to allow the full shoulder surface to sit at or slightly below flush, then the proper step diameter and depth (whatever that winds up being - based on your shoulder washer) in it for the 'neck' of the shoulder washer with the rest being the 3/8" thru hole. Easy. And will make the handle function better. Ive done similar many times.  

I

stafford1500
stafford1500 GRM+ Memberand Dork
6/2/20 8:33 p.m.

If you had not explained what it was from, I was going to say it looks like a lock body, from a keyed lock.

 

Crackers
Crackers SuperDork
6/3/20 10:35 a.m.

I'd go with Toymans approach, personally. 

Although, I'd drill oversize to fit a bronze bushing in it and Loctite it in place. That way you have a more suitable bearing surface, and the drilled hole quality will be less important. 

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