In reply to dr_strangeland :
Well aware! I ran one with my first autocross car, an STS2 FB RX7, back in 2009. I will be trying to make both this season depending on scheduling conflicts with ORSCCA and ORPCA.
You should definitely make a PIR South Paddock event this season. They literally just finished repaving the entire lot and it's so nice. Best surface in the region by a long shot.
I like your YouTube videos and your approach to this project. We found that the GT3 front bar kept the inside rear tire planted but introduced some understeer, which was cured by putting wider front tires on. We ran Hoosier A6 and tried the 255/40-18, 275/35-18 and 285/30-18 on the front. I think we had the most success with the 255/40-18 but they were a unique tire built by Hoosier because they used a 275mm carcass and were nearly as wide as the 285mm tire. For street tires, you will have to try different things but 285's will fit if push comes to shove
In reply to loosecannon :
996.1 GT3 bar? Which endlinks do you run with that bar on a 986 chassis? The RE71R comes in a nice 265/38/18 for the front and 275/35/18 rear. There's also a 255/35/18 that's 0.4" shorter that could work on the front, still 10.2" of tread width.
In reply to Javelin :
We got the kit from Tarret Engineering which is an OEM GT3 adjustable front bar and the Tarret drop links
In reply to loosecannon :
Awesome! Thank you
In reply to Javelin :
Sweet, I'll be there for sure. Unless.a hill climb conflicts, which... will probably happen.
PIR sounds great, and then I get an excuse to visit Portland. My goal is to eventually visit all the local venues and run with every local club. I made it all the way up to Bellingham last year, to drive a first gear course in a tiny parking lot, but it was still really fun. PIR sounds like about the opposite of that.
Time for the next episode of Project Porsche!
That's right, it's time to put the Porsche on a diet. I pulled the box of spares out of the trunk for 18 pounds and the spare tire out of the nose for 30 pounds, brining our fighting weight down to 2905 pounds. I still have the floor mats inside, the radar detector, and the phantom weight to get out of it plus taking the gas down more and the changing the muffler we're looking pretty good. The wind deflector is another 2 pounds as well!
Our base car had the 2.7 litre in it and didn't exceed sound rules with straight pipes from cats to the back, but it sounded very racey and the stock muffler is very heavy
Can't do a lightweight battery, no mention of it in the rules which means no allowances other than the "expendable parts" clause. Wheel bolts can be annoying to deal with but I don't see how studs would be lighter, I'd guess that bolts are actually slightly lighter by maybe a pound total. That grill piece goes in the roll hoop as part of the wind deflector system. Car is coil on plug, spark plugs are a weird two electrode design. Oil change is exactly like a normal car except you're working under the rear instead of the front. Spark plugs are surprisingly easy to replace.
In reply to dps214 :
Dude, thank you!!! Looks like I need make sure the NAPA battery is correct group size for the car and go from there. On the wheel bolts I wasn't sure if they would be lighter or not, will have to continue investigating though that's getting down to ounces. The grill piece is a spare, my car has both still installed. Coil on plug is good, I can change the coils out and the plugs, I wonder if any of the traditional manufacturers make a good upgrade there. I think I need to get some ramps for the oil change, jacking it up looks to be a PITA.
loosecannon said:Our base car had the 2.7 litre in it and didn't exceed sound rules with straight pipes from cats to the back, but it sounded very racey and the stock muffler is very heavy
I've heard both of those things multiple times. I'm thinking of fabbing up my own straight-pipe for testing. Definitely have to weigh that monster muffler!
In reply to Javelin :
I've just been jacking each side from the balance point using one of these on the pinch weld: https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-jack-adapter.html and then putting stands under the jacking points. Probably not the "right" way but doesn't seem to be hurting anything and is super easy. Only annoyance is that there's a plastic panel on the driver's side that gets in the way of getting to the balance point on that side so it has to be jacked up unevenly on that side.
In reply to dps214 :
My driveway is a steep incline so that sketches me out a little too much.
Time for another update, this time we get some seat time in! Sorry about the terrible audio, I film with a potato and edit with one, too. I spend my money on car parts, not A/V and PC equipment...
By the way, I am using a YouTube feature to "Premiere" the next installment on 8 AM PST 1/23/19, check it out: Coming soon to a screen near you!
I just watched it. I disagree that adding a front sway bar helps understeer. Adding roll stiffness to one end of the car reduces grip at that end. I guess there could be exceptions to the rule but generally speaking, adding a thicker rear bar would help understeer.
In reply to loosecannon :
And thats why my original thought was rear bar.
On the Boxster, the weakness is the lack of a LSD so to keep both rear tires planted, you run a GT3 front sway bar but then some wider front tires will be needed to cure understeer. However, you may never experience wheelspin running 200TW tires, making the giant front bar unnecessary.
In reply to loosecannon :
So get the tires and wheels pronto.
In reply to loosecannon :
The other weakness is complete lack of front camber. At some point you can actually improve front grip by just keeping more of the front tire in contact with the ground (in this situation limiting roll limits camber loss). This is a common thing on FWD cars, the Fiesta ST in particular (1.2* front camber, struts, open diff). Though in those cases another factor involved is that even in stock form the inside rear wheel lifts almost immediately so adding rear roll stiffness does almost nothing. That obviously isn't a factor in a rwd car, so I could see it going either way here which is why I was looking forward to the bar testing he originally had planned.
In reply to dps214 :
I was about to mention this. General rules regarding suspension tuning usually hold true, but within the context of Street limitations, you sometimes have to think outside the box. I'm actually leaning toward upgrading the front bar on my HS 8G Civic Si, instead of the typical rear. Should help in the slalom and trying to maintain tire contact patch with my whole -.5 degrees of camber with crash bolts. Also, if your outside front bottoms out mid corner, you're losing all of your grip. A front sway could help with that. What's best for your Boxster, I do not know. Just my two, unqualified, cents.
Thanks for all of the input everyone. I am leaning towards FSB because of the extreme lack of front camber and that the car already has more than enough rotation in it as is. I am starting off with the stock ones though and getting the tires on the car first to do the first couple three events to get a better feel for what it's going to want.
Watching your build closely....I bought a 986 Boxster last month to run in SCCA CS and PCA S03 (P03 after suspension mods). It is a '04 Boxster S 6-speed with 7.5" x 18"F/9.0" x 18"R running Pilot Sport AS3. Ran first AX last weekend and came in PAX 6 of 68.
In reply to 74CS :
Well done! What else have you done with the car so far?
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