Thinking about the exhaust some more, I wonder how much of the noise is due to the fact that the exhaust no longer collects before the muffler shell. The muffler packing in the front third of the muffler has to muffle individual, discrete rotor pulses instead of a combined exhaust flow.
I am thinking about installing an X pipe in the top of the over axle section:
Got to work just as the FedEx van pulled up.
Yar... it begins.
No drilling! I like the sound of that.
Way less than 30 minutes later:
Clears the R specific bumper cover no problem.
Installing was a slight pain because the whole thing was slightly too narrow. I started the left side bolts 1/2 turn from tight, then used a pointed drift in the passenger side middle bolt hole to pry the passenger side out enough that I couls start and tighten the two outer bolts. Went easier than I was anticipating.
Next up, wiring.
Wiring is the majority of my order from FCP Euro.
Genuine Volvo controller box and wiring harness kit. Supposedly it doesn't just control lights, but also alters the operating parameters in the ECM, TCM, and ABS. (Maybe the Four-C as well). If I'd opted for the seven pin connector, it would also control the trailer brake. I'm not quite that ambitious yet.
First, open up the trunk, and realize that the jack has been chewing on the battery.
Then assemble the most ridiculously over engineered holder ever.
It came with a bracket meant to interface with the Volvo reciever. I put it in a few different locations until I decided to ziptie it horizontally to the tube.
Next, while I had the battery moved out of the way to access the factory body plug for the wiring (Volvos were ENGINEERED to tow) found a whole decade's worth of golf tees (maybe 40-50) and proof that someone else used to own this car. Sam Adams?
Plug everything in and check with a tester.... and a mirror because i have the pins upside down:
Now to put this mess together!
So THAT's how it's supposed to go!
Next up, timing belt.
I friggin' love how easy it is to work on P2 chassis cars.
No leaks noted, oil or coolant. Onward with belt and pullies.
One (1) angle gear, original to car. Insert seal puller.
Seal puller doesn't fit! Must get inventive.
Clean up 13 years of ugly on the inside...
Install new seal, clean unit thoroughly, shudder at condition of input splines, set unit to drain old fluid out.
Remove new old angle gear. This job is much easier with the subframe out.
I'll be trying to find replacement bearings for this one.
Ran car with the angle gear off (you can do this, it's just a FWD trans with a second output spline that mates direct to the diff case) and yep, no horrible noises. And turning the gear on the ground feels like it is full of gravel.
I had been hoping that I was wrong, and it was actually the trans. Used transmissions are cheap, angle gears are not available used and are $1800 new.
Angle gear is in, fluids installed, wheel is torqued, tools put away, garbage taken out, now there is just one service remaining, and it's huge important.
I dropped my keys the day before my job interview in February and broke the tabs that hold the battery cover on. I didn't know that the covers were still available.
Best twenty bucks spent ever.
Okay now time to go play!
Minor confession: I am berking sick and tired of rolling around under this car barking around with the rearend. So I haven't touched it for a week. Maybe two.
Yes, I berking hate rolling around under the car.
I went and bought a Bauer 3/8" electric impact, on the theory that making it suck less will make it suck less. I was right.
I drained the fluid, took the pinion support out, and measured the shim stack to be .027". I set that stack to the side and made a new shim stack that I measured to .029". I put it together and noted two things:
1. Relatively new, grippy summer tires on the front, and crappy dried out all seasons on the back, will oversteer quickly. Also I need more roll stiffness.
2. It's now quiet under coast except for a kind of mechanical whizzing noise, but it's still a little loud on drive. I'd add more shim but I am leery of what it is doing to the backlash, which I have no way of measuring without disassembling everything and pulling it all out again.
It was at this point that the heat was getting to me, and the car's inability to hold an idle was pissing me off, so I parked it again.
Oh yeah, I forgot the part where it fell off the jack, fortunately before I took the tires off. All because I was using the little easily-transported aluminum mini-jack that sits in the garage unused, instead of the big high-lift iron jack, which ironically is the one I take to rallycrosses now. Which is why it was sitting the bottom of the cargo box of my trailer, which is why I didn't feel like digging it out to use...
Got a reply to a private message I sent a long time ago.
Just might be taking advantage of the weakening Pound in order to buy some very specific go-fast bits.
840 Pounds shipped. That's like 382 kilograms, or 1011 USD.
That moment when you realize the subframe you bought is mangled.
Hard to photograph, but right rear mounting point is pushed in a half inch or so.
Arg.
Oh no Pete what is you doin?
Patrick said:Oh no Pete what is you doin?
"Nani yo surike da?"
Trivia: My Japanese is rusty (okay, it's more like "I can understand numbers and some common phrases") but the voice actress copies Linda Hamilton's error when she says there are "215 bones in the human body". I think. She's talking rather fast after all.
Anyway, this is a nice non sequitur as a way of a non answer.
I has a Bucket.
Current coast.
Current drive.
Backlash feels tighter than I'd set it up. Didn't have time to measure again yet.
Future reference: 1993 Accord radiator is 27.5" by 18" and has a passenger side lower hose
No pictures, since this thread is already about 15 pages of me removing and reinstalling a 9" pumpkin. It would be thoroughly redundant at this point. I did get pumpkin re-install down to an hour, at least. I certainly have had enough practice.
I've had this car for a while. This video, courtesy Chris Lanctot, is ten years old.
I'm pretty sure it was Megasquirted on a street ported deturboed Turbo II engine when this video was taken. The 12A didn't last very long after I got the car (it was wooooorn), and neither did the GSL-SE engine that I swapped in along with Megasquirt.
*cough*
There was nothing wrong with that car that 300 more horsepower couldn't fix.
Was all set to buy new AGXs for the rear (going to try Mustang units, they are the right length, and I theorize that all AGXs have the same damping anyway) and thought. Wait a minute. I acquired dozens of old shocks. Let's go through that first.
Besides a scadload of Tokico Blues, I have a pair of yellow Bilsteins and a pair of red Konis. The Bilsteins feel dead. The Konis have lots of gas pressure. Okay! First we unbolt the old Tokico Golds, and.... they have more gas pressure than the Konis do.
Well, hell. Looks like I'll just keep soldiering on with what I got, for now.
Anyway this also happened.
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