I need about 5% of this roll of .035 stainless shim stock, but it's the smallest order I could make. Still cheaper than buying premade shims.
I need about 5% of this roll of .035 stainless shim stock, but it's the smallest order I could make. Still cheaper than buying premade shims.
Modify a profile gauge to fit in the slot...
Slice of cardboard to mark out on:
A little knife action:
And it fits!
Now to make four in stainless. Out of a 6" by 50" roll.
Just for the record, check out the evidence of the bores flexing into the channel.
And this nifty double line where you can see where BOTH rings were ómphing into the bore near TDC
Much cutting and burned fingertips later
And done!
Still waiting on new head bolts.
The shim between 4 and 5 took a lot of effort to get in. That was the slot with the worst bowing, it was under .030 in the middle. Ring seal should be improved rathr than hurt, now, as I am bringing the bore back into roundness by forcing the channel straight again.
Also, this all means the engine can offically take all the boost. Darnit.
Stupid question... Why was that channel cut in there in the first place? I can't imagine that it would improve cooling by any measurable amount...
In reply to wae :
Aluminum has a high rate of expansion with temperature, and the top of the bore is generally the hottest part, so some automakers from Northern Europe where the engineers are over-analretentive will cut channels between the bores so the bore can expand uniformly.
Audi did it too, on their Sport Quattro rally engines:
It looks like Ecoboost 1.6 engines also have the channels.... and guess what is happening on the Ecoboosts?
Meanwhile, Japanese automakers who have open deck aluminum blocks don't cut channels, and the world fails to end because of bore warpage concerns. So shimming the block is kind of a reliability mod.
In Volvo's defense, they only had problems on the engines where they opened up the bore beyond the original design spec. And they reverted their high power engines to smaller bores after the S60R.
So how much BBbbooooosssstttTTTT!!!!! are ya gonna throw at it?
Inquiring minds want to know.
In reply to Bent-Valve :
Stock.
Stock is 18 pounds per the scantool at our elevation, which is a crapton when considering the car is tuned for 87 octane.
The twin intercooler setup is also far less than ideal, and in some ways is worse than the single intercooler setup. I wouldn't bother trying to do anything with it until the intercooler gets upgraded to a big single, and that's an expense I really don't want to... uh, spend. And then there is the issue of "don't modify the car that you don't want to have down for two weeks or so while you hemhorrage money at it when it inevitably breaks because modifications suck".
Ahem.
Also, the 4T4 turbo package, which would bring it up to about 450hp, runs at stock boost levels. So either way, stock 
But a 4T4 setup with necessary addons would be a $5000 bill, which I really would rather pour into the Quantum. Or sell the Quantum and pour the $5000 into saving to buy a house.
As it is, I've poured almost $3000 in the past couple weeks, although I'm still waiting on word from the salvage yard regarding the bad engine they sold me to see how much of that can be mitigated. Some of that was my fault as I bought some incorrect parts from Rock Auto, meaning had to buy things twice, and some of it was specialty tools that I'll be able to use in the future. Having my credit card statement down to $1100 was fun while it lasted.
18 seems like quite a bit but if thats stock, cool.
Just to clarify, I know very little to almost nothing about turbos.
That kinda hurts on the credit card. Im paying as I go on my projects which some days sucks. I hope to catch up on the DD soon, or at least before it breaks down on me.
Can't sleep. Watching a 100 minute long Celica GT4 rally compilation video.
This is not a good thing
In reply to Knurled. :
I have always wanted one so bad.
In reply to Professor_Brap :
The thing is that the Celica was from the era when Group A cars had like 5 inches of suspension travel, so they had to pitch the cars around everywhere because the suspensions had to be so stiff that handling and grip suffered. Not like the modern plush slot cars with 13" of travel and funky valving and hydraulic bumpstops and such as.
There are the lightest solid buckets I have ever seen.
32mm diameter, this one seems to be 15.7mm tall. No inserts inside or shims on top, they're one piece and I assume select fit. No berking idea how to measure the clearance without a lot of specialty tools, or a lot of disassembly and reassembly.
One last peek at the bores to verify that they are in fact not cracked...
And head goes on. 20nm, 60nm, 130 degrees, with no set torque pattern other than "middle out".
Now the totally nervousfying part.
Lube the cams, but no so much that lube gets on the sealing surfaces, and lay them in place. Then evenly put sealant on the top half of the head, without getting it into the oil passages or the cam journals!, and use the medieval torture devices to clamp it together and compress the valve springs.
Those channels? Those are the oil galleries.
Okay, one more wash and rinse and dry and let's do this.
FWIW, if you need some high quality 10mm flanged head, 8x1.25x34mm bolts, there's 45 of them on a Volvo head.
45????????
Guess im looking for a volvo next time at the junkyard for hardware!
Is Volvo another one of those companies where the cam cover doubles as the cam caps? Guessing that’s a European thing as the first time I saw it was on wae’s Mercedes diesel.
In reply to eastsideTim :
Volvo may have been the first to do it, in the early 90s with this engine architecture.
It does seem to have caught on with other automakers. It makes for a very short stack height. I do like how VW put access plugs on top, so you can get to the head bolts without disassembly.
Japanese automakers on the other hand are going with three piece heads. Head, separate cam tray, valve cover. Just like an old Subaru EA82. Or a Cosworth BDA.
I think I found the refrigerant leak...
gunked up the hell out of the main intercooler, too.
Moving right along.
The aux intercooler tripped me up. If this were a normal Volvo with a single intercooler (or none I guess) you pop the bumper cover and upper core support off, undo two lines and a connector and four bolts and you pop the condensor out.
The tubes for the aux intercooler made that a PITA. So the easy way would have been the factory way, of disconnecting everything and dropping it all out the bottom.
And given that everything was thoroughly grimy with refrigerant oil and dust, everything got a trip to the parts washer.
I am still going to put in the aux intercooler after everything is in
Putting the nose together, and of course cleaning all the plastic ducts and such as it goes together.
Pop the bumper cover on (why can't they ALL be this simple?) and a wall friend popped out to say hi.
Probably gonna stop for the day after the nose is together and the new engine is back on the stand. Like this!
I feel like the service crew for Prodrive the year they were fighting handling issues, and they were swapping transmissions at every service trying to pin it down at the one rally. I am getting really good at engine R&R, and timing belt and pulley swaps.
Okay, just to recap how silly it is to set the timing.
There are no keyways on the CVVT hubs. You remove the starter and the cam sensors/wheels from the back of the head, and install locking plates/pins. Put the cam pulleys on "wherever" albeit as clocked hard to clockwise as you can get. Easy way to do this is to remove the crank pin, back the crank up a couple teeth, stick the belt on, snug the CVVT bolts, then rotate the engine until you can juuust put the pin in. Then torque the CVVT hubs to spec.
Not good enough!! The keyless, non spring loaded hubs are also ADJUSTABLE.
Loosen the three sprocket bolts on each hub, clonk the crank counterclockwise against its stop, with a T55 in the CVVT plug clonk the hub clockwise until it can't move, tighten the three bolts to 10nm, which seems really low so I used Loctite.
Nervousfying.
The turbo and oil pan were full of coolant.
I will get the oil pans swapped over tonight.
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