10pm.
One (1) busted-ass 2.4:
One (1) reassembled 2.5, ready to back in after it comes off the stand and the flexplate can be reinstalled:
Harmonic damper goes on after engine is in.
It is 10pm and my upper back frickin' hurts. Now to drive a car that does not have an adjustable seatback for 40 minutes.
So is the yard that shipped you E36 M3 compensating you? I'm 50/50 on resolving problems with major parts ordered from far away. One wanted me to ship a rebuilt trans back on my dime after it died in 2 weeks and another said our bad we'll refund you immediately and have it picked back up by freight truck
In reply to Patrick :
The guy I talked to Thursday last week said yeah, well I get this happens, we have a 10-15% return rate, I'll refund your money and send a shipping ticket. I offered to just take a partial refund instead of shipping it back to CA on their dime, since I could still use some of the parts. He said that works, and his eBay guy would contact me tomorrow.
Tomorrow was last Friday. Haven't had much opportunity to call and go through their F-off voicemail system again, but I'll probably go for it on Monday.
In other news, somebody in a slammed Kia zoomed up in the left lane, slowed down to pace me, and trew revs at me now and then.
I am literally driving a rental Focus. It's the basest of base model sedans, I think it even has hubcaps. I don't get it...
Don't forget to plug the PCV heater in while the engine is six inches up
Don't forget to plug the PCV heater in while the engine is six inches up
Don't forget to plug th...
Berk!!!
berkeley this, i am going home
Pcv heater makes me nervous.
I laughed out loud, for real, when I started reading, " Don't forget to ..."
Pyro looked at me so I read it to her.
Yup, we have all done that numerous times.
So why does the pcv heater make you nervous?
Not leaking oil, power steering fluid, ATF, or coolant (anymore).
Not pressurizing the cooling system under boost anymore.
Catalyst, evap, and O2 monitors are still incomplete. I know evap requires an 8 hour park and catalyst requires a cold start. Cat has me worried, that is what precipitated this whole mess after all, but rear O2 runs a solid .64v instead of switching rich/lean like the cat was kaput, so I got a good feeling.
Yayyyyyyyy
driving it home or playing it safe?
Fan-berkeleying-tastic!!!!
Patrick said:Yayyyyyyyy
driving it home or playing it safe?
Fortuitously enough, I have to drive it home because both of the loaners are out. I might have been driving the Fit home to be safe but Ganley was not able to provide us today with a CR-V driveshaft they had in stock, so that customer still has our loaner. Dunno who has the Focus.
i came back to work because the low oil light came on. Better safe than sorry. Ran the scantool on it and it passed catalyst and O2 monitors just from driving halfway up 71. Neat. Because Ohio lets evap slide during the winter months, I probably could go to a self test kiosk right now. But it is quarter to 8 and I am still at work...
Engine is bone dry, which is good. Driveshaft shows evidence of kissing the O2 elbow.
I'll let it chew on it a little more to mark things while I think of the best way to deal with it. I don't want to clock it any more to the left because I don't want to shove the wires into the floor.
Realized the car was dusty as berk due to being near the tire machine that gets all the clean and seals, so...
After 42k miles of ownership, this is the first time I hand-washed it.
Running, Nice! No bubbly under boost, Better.
Kissing a spinning mass of metal, ugh.
Is there a worn bushing (trans or transaxle) that might move the driveshaft up when replaced? Or would a new bushing push it harder into the O2 sensor?
I'm guess maybe some welding is in the cats future?
Meanwhile I cleaned the windows on my most recent Volvo and programmed the homelink to my garage door opener.
In reply to Bent-Valve :
The pipe was just plain made wrong. The front section was also built a little off, as well (downpipe angle was slightly off, so the flex joint is always preloaded) From talking with people on swedespeed, this is a not uncommon occurrence.
I guess I was expecting a Volvo specialist with high reviews to make a part that fits like OE. I let that optimism cloud my experience that aftermarket parts practically never actually fit the car and will need massaging to work.
In reply to EvanB :
I didn't know you had a garage door opener. Anyway, how you do dat? I have Homelink too (I assume) and I couldn't figure out how to make it work my Genie.
In reply to Knurled. :
Not sure, I read a number of tutorials and they all kinda didn't work. Eventually I figured out a way to make it work. Combination of holding the garage remote button and the homelink button for a while then hitting the learn button on the opener while pressing the homelink button multiple times.
I went through 3 or 4 different instruction sets before one combination finally worked. I also have a Genie.
Got my E-check papers today.
The ECM is throwing a 620C, which does not have a standard OBD-II fault code so it doesn't come up under generic. 620C is fan circuit signal high. The fan has a controller that gets a PWM positive signal from the ECM, higher duty cycle means more fan speed. (It's simple enough that I might borrow Volvo bits for a future Megasquirted project, MS can do PWM control) Circuit high means the signal wire never gets pulled down to ground. I tried making sure the wire had good contact on the connector, next stop is hooking up the scope and backprobing the connector to verify that power is getting sent down that far. If I'm getting ECM power down there, the next stop is fan controller, which is expensive enough that I'd junkyard it. But it's odd because the fan was working when I pulled the car in to start engine removal.
Fan or controller appears to be dead. Lovely. Wonder if it got stepped on or something while it was out.
Car is also setting a "front oxygen sensor high" code, which I was kind of expecting. The rear O2, thanks to the extension tube, does not react fast enough when the computer commands the engine lean or rich to check the sensor response. So the diagnostic algorithm points its finger at the front O2. This means I get to cut and reweld the downpipe, yay.
Alternatively I could probably just put in another O2 bung clocked better. There might be room to do that.
EvanB texted me today from a junkyard asking if a certain year S80 (it's just a big ugly P2) fan would work. According to ipd's website, yep. SO he bought it for $10. For $10, why not?
I made my way down to his place, plugged the fan into the car, and it started working. Sweet. ALLDATAs's information was wrong!
You see, ALLDATA said that Volvo said that the fan control is a 12V source coming from the ECM, which I thought was odd because computer modules practically always control the ground side of a circuit. But when I had the scope on it yesterday, I was seeing a proper 12-0v square wave of about the correct frequency for the various speeds, except sometimes it was a 2-0v wave, sometimes 5-0v. I didn't know if this was a tool error, or the car throwing a fit because the battery voltage was low and you can't berking turn the headlights off with the ignition on because
(rant expunged)
so I was considering the possibility that it might be a fried ECM, somehow. But I also found some kind soul had posted to iATN information on testing the fan circuit and he claimed that the control wire's 12V was generated at the fan module and the ECM controlled ground. I don't like conflicting info. I could have cut the wire and verified where the voltage was coming from, but I like hacked wiring harnesses even less than conflicting info. Plus the fan had been running on high speed for the last 10-15k miles or so more or less, due to a quirk in the way the ECM deals with a low A/C refrigerant charge. So maybe it was weak and being removed and replaced was enough to kill it. New fans are about $500. Chinesium fans are $200. eBay used fans are $100-15 0with a long wait. So when Evan said $10, I'm like yeah, buy it!
Also, the ipd downpipe has to die. The flex section in the pipe is way too short, and it's causing unpleasant floor vibrations when under acceleration. I'll be putting the OE downpipe in and possibly selling the ipd unit, although I'd feel bad about selling it because it sucks.
Less than two months to the first cancellation of the year!
Volvo is more or less done now that the replacement fan is in. I want that downpipe off but not badly enough to actually do it.
Time to come up with some sort of game plan. I have two RX-7s that need a lot of work.
Well, that sucked.
Took an emergency jaunt to pick up a trailer and car full of VWAG parts, including some really hard to find Quantum parts. Hauled all the ass after work, Volvo singing sweetly at 80-90mph, towing the trailer like it wasn't even there.
On the way back home, it lost an ignition coil. Ended up not being able to make it to drop the trailer off at its home, since the electric gate is not 24 hour. I rolled in to work at around midnight, feeling like a complete zombie, to discover that cylinder 4 was not reporting for duty. Given the amount of snowfall we had, I opted to drop the trailer in the building, pull the #4 injector connector off, and drive home.
Top speed like this is about 80mph, keeping the revs up at 4000-6000rpm. It also blew the dipstick out and coated my "new" radiator fan with oil.
Trailer has been repaired and is tucked safely away in storage.
Meanwhile, at the Batcave, I dropped the driveshaft and remembered to bring my dial indicator set home from work so I could check the runout on the pinion flange.
Yup, we got runout.
It's difficult to tell if the flange face has runout due to how full of holes it is, and the surface rust on it, but the register that the driveshaft pilots into definitely has runout. It has about .007" total indicated runout, or .0035" off center. I think. I get mixed up when I think about "runout" and overthink if it's the total indication, or half the indication, meaning how off center it is.
The needle was moving from .055 to .062 and back with every revolution. That's bad when the driveshaft is turning 6k. Mazda used to have different thickness U-joint retainer clips to center the driveshaft within a thou.
Now that I am home, it's time to watch some B.O.M.
$280 later, all four of my registered vehicles are re-registered.
SISU was taken, so the red RX-7 retains its generic plate. The helpful person at the BMV said "Well, let's see if I can run it with some numbers and call it an initials plate" (which is $25 cheaper than a personalized plate). Nope, nothin' doing.
I applied the $50 I saved on not getting a personalized plate by buying a new belt for the Volvo, which decided to start squeaking to an incredible degree.
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