Bottle moved 
Abby approved
other than out of date belt and back brace for seat to roll bar, i’m done.
I have no doubts this car could win the challenge this year by removing drag tires and nitrous from budget ($497) and putting more spring in and having more organized thoughts for the concours, but alas it’s retired from florida trips.
Wow she's getting big. Passenger seat is always the number one request in my house also.
Just climbed in to check room because if i can fit, Carli can fit. I’m stuck. My brain doesn’t know how to climb around a cage from the passenger seat. Send help.
In reply to Patrick :
No right hand drive cars for you.
In reply to Andy Neuman :
I would think it should be pretty easy to get out of the passenger seat of a right hand drive car.
Andy Neuman said:In reply to Patrick :
No right hand drive cars for you.
No caged RHD ones... i fully intend to have an r32 and a 3 rotor cosmo at some point.
Long time no update. 
fwiw the budget is still below $2000 if i swap out my $397 nitrous for the $100 system i got and my new turny tires were $20 versus $290 so my $100 drag slicks and 2 of the $5 tires would be among the 4 free tires of record. Counting the blowdown tube that doesn’t need budgeted since the new system came with one, it’s down around $1600. Just throwing that out there, Carli said no more challenge for this car but it’s nice to have a backup plan.
What are your plans then if no more Challenge?
One of the Things I Want To Do is attack an iron block with various metal eating tools to see if it can be lightened near to the weight of an aluminum block, without sacrificing strength. There's extraneous knobs and bosses all over the place and I see at least a pound of iron on the passenger front that serves absolutely no purpose.
Mad skids(sorry i found mighty car mods when i was sick in bed Thursday)
I’m likely going to be chasing the weakest links at the dragstrip looking for 10’s. It’s never going to be a comfortable street car, it’s a car I tolerate driving a few miles here and there because it’s fun to do stupid things like that. I don’t have any plans to get rid of it anytime soon.
Knurled. said:One of the Things I Want To Do is attack an iron block with various metal eating tools to see if it can be lightened near to the weight of an aluminum block, without sacrificing strength. There's extraneous knobs and bosses all over the place and I see at least a pound of iron on the passenger front that serves absolutely no purpose.
We should start a band called “The Extraneous Knobs”
In reply to Patrick :
I think "Extraneous Knob" was actually my job title at my last workplace.
Yeah, i’m doing a top end swap in my trailer.
A box has arrived from ye olde racing parts of the county Summit.
Knowing that, and knowing my mom wanted the kids this afternoon to decorate Easter eggs, I worked extra hard yesterday to get my job done that was scheduled to carry over to today.
Car is officially(finally) out of challenge budget realm as I don’t know what a new ls6 cam cost 6 years ago and I couldn’t in good conscience try and fmv a set of 799 heads at anything less than $500. Knowing that, keeping with recoup tradition, the goal here is 10’s for $3000 including tires and safety gear. In reality the heads cost me $0 plus valve springs
In reply to Patrick :
Is that seriously what 243/799 heads go for in your area? That's rectangle port money.
Yes, i can buy a complete ‘10ish 4.8 for what the heads go for. The best way I used to get them was by parting out sub $500 ls4 but then people discovered they have 243 heads. These heads are from my wife’s snaab 9-7x that had the afm failure. I bought a 2010 4.8 for under $600, shoved it in and traded it in. Cam has been on shelf in tube from gm for years. This was all slated for my 95 impala but when I pulled head and found cracked block I just bought a cammed ls1 and called it done.
I have rectangle port heads and a 6.0 block for when i really want to make huge power.
Got this far before my back said stop
Everything torqued, exhaust hooked up, ready to do balancer and water pump and bolt intake back down with new gaskets
Jdm nitrous plugs for my jdm fairlady
In reply to Patrick :
I'm totally going to steal that "peal the intake back with all the wiring and injectors still connected" trick when it's time for me to do a top end swap on Humpie 
Almost done. Radiator and hoses, intake tube, tighten exhaust clamps, alternator, change out cam sensor plug because I damaged a wire, go buy battery, do fluids. Then it’s ready to go run all the nitrous
That seems way set back which makes sense considering the original straight 6. Did you do anything else to set it back further?
not particularly, it’s about as down as you’re going to get though. I might have been able to go back a tad more as mounts were made with distributor on a standard small block in mind, but that little extra room gave me a good way to hide all the stuff (harness and whatnot) coming through the firewall behind the intake effectively “tucking” the wiring. Oil pan is very close to rack. Cylinder heads begin at axle centerline so basically the timing components, balancer, throttle body, water pump and accessories are the only engine parts not inside the wheelbase. The tunnel is modified so it’s pretty spacious and simple to get to bellhousing bolts.
Note to self - replace cracked vacuum cap on back of intake (sorry I’m trying to get to sleep and I just remembered that, and if I don’t note it I won’t remember)
In reply to Patrick :
Looking at it in the pictures, it appears like if you were able to remove the A/C part of the truck harmonic damper, you could set the engine down over the rack in ways you could not if you were using a Corvette or F-body damper. Very hmm.
Of course, you can only get the engine so low before the transmission is scraping the ground, which is a good excuse to swap in a C5's transaxle....
In reply to Knurled. :
Exhaust y pipe scrapes on certain spots in the road, and it’s not much lower than trans pan. I even took 3/4” off it. C5 transaxle would probably be in my ribcage. Datsun so small, so small.
Transaxle/ribcage cospacial issues notwithstanding, is shortening the torque tube easy enough to make happen?
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