The Bean

In reply to Shavarsh :

the splash guard partially attaches to the fender, so finding one sans fender but has the splash guard will be like finding a gold brick on a beach. As far as ease of service, when I cleaned the air cleaner on my First SN it was basically disassembling the intake. Disconnect the rubber hose and/or remove the air cleaner assembly. 

Also, I know you have already prepped the upper manifold, but if possible I would consider a pre SN upper. the throttle body location doesn't have the bend yours does. might give you a little more workable room. Then again, and this is strictly throwing something against the wall, you could try using an earlier efi manifold and create your own pre intake/post tmass air tube. A spacer to move the tb out and then try different curve radiuses between the air box and tb. IDK what it might do to your power curve, but your power to weight ratio may offset and hp/tq loss you could possibly see. The good news is there are plenty of upper/lower intake options out there, but most are like the 86-93 design as far as throttle body mounting goes

In reply to anger_enginering :

I could use your wealth of Ford knowledge in my MGB GT thread...

Shavarsh already has at least a couple uppers floating around: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/sbf-efi-intake-manifold-dimensions/240087/page1/

IIRC he selected the upper for hood clearance reasons.

Fox inner liner. Wrong side of the car and not a Mustang, but you get the idea. Sn95 is similar.

In reply to Nukem :

NICE! missed that thread

And reading your thread now.. let me get caught up

Understand here that all of my comments are presumed to have zero inner fender liner. They are necessary on a daily driver, but The Bean is not that, and so their absence I felt to be permanent.

So first up, the crank sensor is finished, and set at a .017" gap to start. The vr sensor is not perfectly centered on the wheel, but we will try this until it proves to be an issue.

This allowed the accessory drive to be reassembled:

Then my intake elbow finally arrived, it had to go on immediately for a test fit:

For the time being I am quite pleased with this setup. The opening of the airbox points towards the grill opening, and I can duct it in any manner of ways later down the line. Now to create a flange for the intake tube, and some mounts.

That looks terrific. Oval tubes are fun to make from sheet metal too

Alright, wrapping up the filter housing, we need a flange, and mounts. Lets start with the flange.

First we need an 80mm tube:

Then build the flange and weld:

Punch out a couple silicone washers, and install some rivnuts in the fender:

That should work nicely. 

In reply to Shavarsh :

I love this project!

Thanks Angry! I really appreciate the encouragement!

So, some of you responded to my thread about how to baffle my fuel cell: here . This is necessary because I now need a high pressure pump for EFI. There are many ways to accomplish this, but I want an in-tank pump to keep things quiet and cool.

To summarize, I decided that the best plan is to use a modern fuel pump assembly. So, enter (almost) the cheapest internet superstore fuel pump asm for a 2002 Camaro:

This fuel pump asm is pretty trick. It has a fuel control basket, a couple one way valves, a venturi siphon, and internal fuel pressure regulator... lets hope it works for $50. I am using the stock foxbody pressure regulator at the rail, so I turned up a dummy plug to put in place of the pressure regulator on the return line.

Well, we need to mount it in the tank somehow. After a bit of machining, we are getting closer:

Your machining and fabrication ability is amazing. Love watching this progress  

Thanks Duster, I appreciate it.

After the O-ring from the pump asm didn't fit the expected dimensions, I ordered the GM part... it also didn't fit as expected. So after a bit of rework we ended up here:

Now that the O-ring is in I can move on to the locating notch, and a clamp ring.

Next lets take care of the fuel rail. I've decided to use AN fittings on the new fuel system because this car doesn't seem to be leaving the stable anytime soon. First, I bought a set of these cheap converters:

The quality was pretty terrible, so they went back. Next I ordered a set of -6 bungs in mild steel:

After gluing them on with some silicon bronze I was feeling pretty good... then discovered this hiding under the sheathing:

Oh well, time to learn nylon fuel hose. Its actually not too bad. I used boiling water on the fitting and the hose, and a brake line flare tool to hold onto the line. Don't forget gloves to hold all the hot stuff with.

I replaced the front and back just to be sure. Next a bit of paint and we are all set:

After the fuel rail was sorted, the passenger valve cover received a fill tube and pcv inlet. Then the car was pushed out to reorganize the garage.

What shade of bronze is on your wheels?

Seriously dude, EFI V8 MT IRS Pinto. Is this a great country or what?!?!

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

I'm not sure, I believe they are the stock bronze color for the konig wide open model.

Thanks Angry! I can't wait to be driving again.

Life is doing its best to slow progress, but here is another bite of the elephant. 

We started here:

Moved to here:

And ended here:

The bolts in the center ring were replaced with longer 1.5" hardware to accept the efi pump mount, the hole in the cell was enlarged, and the level sender was moved to a new spot. 

And a preview of what is to come:

Shavarsh said:

Life is doing its best to slow progress, but here is another bite of the elephant. 

We started here:

Moved to here:

And ended here:

The bolts in the center ring were replaced with longer 1.5" hardware to accept the efi pump mount, the hole in the cell was enlarged, and the level sender was moved to a new spot. 

 

 

 

WOW! Ive never seen someone completely flip things from side to side.. I can't even see the previous holes.. impresive fab skills lol 

How hard was the killmat to get off!

In reply to anger_enginering :

Haha, the killmat was surprisingly easy to take off, just some quality time with a putty knife. I assume the fresh paint and <1 year that it has been in place helped.

One bite at a time... found some clearance for the pump and sender, and made the rear an lines:

Next up, wire the fuel pump:

Jumping the pump to the battery produces almost no sound, but does produce fuel on the floor out of the open lines in the engine bay. That's a good sign. So let's drop the cell, weld up the trunk, and paint:

While the fuel cell is out, let's replace the bushings and endlinks on the rear sway bar. I've been running the worn out stuff from the junk miata until now.

Then tighten everything up and install:

To wrap up the fuel system we need some front fuel lines. In order to make the supply side, we need a filter (wix 33595 for the future), a mount, and way too many fittings:

Next make some more lines and fit them up:

I know it's a little late now but the Explorer fuel rails have the connections at the back of the engine. Might tidy up those lines running across the front of the engine.