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pres589 (djronnebaum)
pres589 (djronnebaum) PowerDork
12/24/20 8:14 a.m.

Rising sun or something Toyota, small, on the driver's door near the mirror mount.  In a similar but darker shade of the body color perhaps.

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter)
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
12/24/20 8:21 a.m.

You can borrow my miata flag if you want 

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 SuperDork
12/24/20 11:51 a.m.

Patrick nailed the pin stripe colors. Frame cream and dark blue.

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
12/31/20 12:50 p.m.

More paint tomorrow and Saturday, hopefully. Unfortunately it's been a week since the first coat, so I scuffed everything I had and fingers crossed it doesn't wrinkle. This will be all parts except for the cab itself, which is still getting the primer sanded. 

The problem I didn't realize until now - acrylic enamel doesn't like to be recoated outside its window, apparently. You're supposed to lay down 2-3 coats within the recoat window up to 30 minutes apart, and paint job over. No more allwoed. After it hardens, you'll get adhesion and blend issues. Blend is not a big deal since this is a solid non-metallic color, but if it doesn't adhere, it can wrinkle. For some reason last week I assumed I could just recoat any time I want, but that was incorrect. So instead of putting all 3 coats on just a few parts, I put one coat on all the parts. So I sanded all the parts...again. I am so tired of sanding. 

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
1/1/21 4:47 p.m.

Turns out this acrylic enamel is super cool. It recoated fine after a week with some light 600 grit sanding. I even tried it on some smooth glossy paint, and it adhered great. Every part except the cab is painted now. Might try to paint interior tomorrow.

 

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
1/2/21 7:05 p.m.

Interior done, just one solid coat with some area getting extra overlap. Once this dries, I'll tape off the openings so I don't get overspray inside, causing a dusty sandy texture.

I need a napkin. 

nocones
nocones GRM+ Memberand UberDork
1/2/21 7:26 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :

Be sure to tape off the openings so you don't get overspray inside, causing a dusty sandy texture... 

 

That looks great.  I still really like the color.

dropstep
dropstep UberDork
1/2/21 9:57 p.m.

On one hand I think it would have been cool to drive it crusty for the summer, on the other hand it makes sense to clean, repair and paint before putting it all the way together 

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa UltraDork
1/2/21 10:37 p.m.

Even if it doesn't compete, I really hope you bring this to next year's challenge so we can all drool over it in person.

Bill Mesker
Bill Mesker Reader
1/3/21 8:55 p.m.

Holy hell Travis... I've been gone for a while and just caught up... this thing is berking amazing! I love the color too! Excellent work as always and belated new years and christmas holiday wishes to you and yours!

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
1/15/21 10:55 a.m.

Oh hey the paint is all down. Hoping to assemble the body parts onto the chassis this weekend!

This is dry paint. Very little orange peel, consistent gloss, but I got quite a few large drips, which I will document thoroughly for your amusement and my shame-driven learning process. 

And the worst batch...

So far the drips are sanding out quite nicely, so I'm not worried about them. The reason for the drips was probably spraying too heavy and not being able to see the paint I just laid down vs the first coat. Basically sprayed the 2nd coat blind. With more lighting at different angles, I think I could better distinguish between the coats as I go. 2 solid wet coats total. Wanted 3, but ran out of paint. 1 gallon total of the turquoise stuff.

Also painted the firewall Rustoleum Almond. 2:2:1 with lacquer thinner and Majic catalyst hardener @ 27 PSI HVLP with 1.4mm tip. Came out just as shiny as the real stuff. I was worried about the almond color being too tan, but it looks whiter than this in daylight, much like the frame. It's an extremely close match to the "IH White" tractor paint I used on the frame, so I'm not worried about. I had debated a more pure white, but the almond sort of mutes the turquoise a bit, which I like on this style of build. Not as "flashy" and high-contrast like a typical 50's two-tone turquoise/white car.

That heater is the only reason I've been able to paint this week. My garage is tiny so it heats up quickly.

Also started fitting the truck bed parts. Now you understand the "trunk bed" concept I've been hinting at if you haven't read from the beginning. The wood bed covers the frame and the storage compartment, and opens like a hood. You'll see. Also notice how much whiter the frame looks in this light. The firewall will be the same.

...might need help lifting the cab this weekend if you're in the ATL area.

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
1/15/21 11:07 a.m.

Trick to dealing with runs so you don't sand through the adjacent paint

 

 

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
1/15/21 11:11 a.m.
dropstep said:

On one hand I think it would have been cool to drive it crusty for the summer, on the other hand it makes sense to clean, repair and paint before putting it all the way together 

Had the same thought when doing the Molvo.

The reality is that if you drive it for the summer and love it, you aint never taking it apart.

If you drive it for the summer and dont love it, you wont want to put the time and money into pulling it apart and painting.

 

Pete

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa UltraDork
1/15/21 11:11 a.m.

Hot damn, that looks good!

In reply to NOHOME :

That's very cool.  I'll put that one to use for sure.

nocones
nocones GRM+ Memberand UberDork
1/15/21 11:56 a.m.
NOHOME said:

The reality is that if you drive it for the summer and love it, you aint never taking it apart.

Pete

This is why the MG still looks like it does..  I just can't imagine taking apart a fully functional car at this point for something that doesn't improve it's function, or fix something that isn't broken.  It would just be an activity in vanity.  That's why the Subaru is getting painted before assembly.  I learned my lesson.

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
1/15/21 12:01 p.m.

In reply to nocones :

If you were closer I'd help paint the MG. That body kit would look even more incredible in proper paint!

Chappers
Chappers Reader
1/15/21 1:19 p.m.

Looks minty fresh that Travis! Excellent work as always!

Did you get the 2JZ running in this truck before you tore it down?

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
1/15/21 1:33 p.m.

In reply to Chappers :

Thanks Chris. The last time the engine ran, I lived in Indiana lol. 

nocones
nocones GRM+ Memberand UberDork
1/15/21 1:48 p.m.

In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :

I should just send it down to summer camp to get painted sometime. 

I need to start a poll to find out if I should paint it or not.  I personally am not sure.  

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
1/15/21 2:16 p.m.

In reply to nocones :

NOPE. That ship has sailed and the car has established an identity as is. Move along...

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
1/15/21 3:18 p.m.
NOHOME said:
dropstep said:

On one hand I think it would have been cool to drive it crusty for the summer, on the other hand it makes sense to clean, repair and paint before putting it all the way together 

Had the same thought when doing the Molvo.

The reality is that if you drive it for the summer and love it, you aint never taking it apart.

If you drive it for the summer and dont love it, you wont want to put the time and money into pulling it apart and painting.

 

Pete

can confirm both points.

maschinenbau (I live here)
maschinenbau (I live here) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
1/16/21 5:24 p.m.

Big stuff happening this weekend. How do you lift a freshly-painted body onto a chassis by yourself? Very carefully...

6 bolts to hold the cab in place. The 1/2-20 bolt goes in from below, with a washer and rubber between the hex and the inside of the frame frame. Another rubber and washer between body and frame. The nut is in the interior. The rubbers are just sway bar end-link bushings from generic Chevy full size.

Got a little close here. I'll have to shave that part down.

Fuel lines need a little more clearance too. Other than that, it fits pretty well!

This shot shows how high the driveshaft is above the floor, hence the ridiculous tunnel.

The rest just bolts in right?

edit: Perfectly fitting that this was the 1000th post of this thread

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