Well, the stock 100 HP 3SFE motor is a tad anemic. Oh, it will get it around and all, and it will climb about anything in 1st, but it needed some more, oh, umph. Nothing wrong with the quarter million mile original motor, just needed umph.
That is a 4th gen 3SGTE from a JDM Caldina, around 98-02, COP, air to air, CT20B. The first (ebay) one I bought had a bad turbo. Oh, the compressor wheel spun fine. However, the turbine wheel was in the housing wedged sideways, ruining the housing. "We no galanteee accesserys." Turns out that the CT20B is unique to the 4th gen JDM 3SGTE. It is integrated with the exhaust manifold and made from unobtainium. Anyway, I called them back up and said, "Just send me another motor. AND THIS BERKELEYING TIME, I WANT YOU TO PULL THE BERKELEYING OXYGEN SENSOR OUT AND SPIN THE BERKELEYING TURBINE AND WATCH THAT THE COMPRESSOR WHEEL BERKELEYING SPINS, OK?" They did that while I was on the phone and put it on the next truck smoking. "Made me a deal" because it was a cut harness off an auto box motor. I took the good used turbo off and brought it to G-Pop-Shop, which is local to me, and had it rebuilt. They said it was fine, quite runable as it was, but I said "just rebuild the thing, it's made from unobtainium and that way I know it will last."
There are lots of little things to make it all work. The 3SFE motor had no fuel pressure regulator. The regulator was in the tank just after the puny fuel pump. Needed a new monster fuel pump and remove that FPR, as the 3SGTE has it's own FPR. And it needed a new return line from the FPR back to the tank.
RAV4's of this generation are known for a rear end clunk. The differential mounts return to the dust that they sprung from under the beating from the huge 100 HP motor. So I took them all out, and all the motor mounts and filled them all with castable urethane.
The exhaust down pipe wouldn't fit the "O2 pipe" or whatever they call it, so I had to fab up a new section there. I need to take it all apart and fab the rest over the front cross member, then fab the rest of the exhaust back to the new muffler I have sitting in the shop. I'm going 2-1/4. 3" would be cool and all, but there's no way I could get 3" over the cross member, and I have this 2-1/4" muffler with dual outlets that I want to use. That is all a good solid weekend's work, once I have the rest of the parts, and I put it off for later. I also put off for later the hood scoop(s). If I did everything all at once, this one year project would have taken 2 years.
Oh, that's an TurboSmart Eboost electronic boost controller and TurboSmart BOV. The turbo rebuilders recommended TurboSmart stuff.
The real biatch of the swap, as usual, was the wiring. I had to pull apart 4 harnesses and make 2: Caldina motor harness, Caldina chassis harness, RAV motor harness, RAV chassis harness all apart, put together: Caldina motor harness, RAV chassis harness. Half the Caldina documentation is in Japanese or Japanese translated to Russian translated to Engrish. I do have a BGB for the RAV. Job would have been about impossible without it. And a 6K page PDF on the Caldina. Amazing what you can find on teh w3bz, y0.
So, the AC works, the RAV tach works, the CEL works and IS NOT ON, the oil pressure light works.
My goal is 300 HP. You know, for onramps and E36 M3. I'm probably at about 200 now, SOTP dyno, limiting the boost to <10PSI. My goal is 15 PSI, and I really need that exhaust upgraded.
I also want the cheapest sounding fake BOV I can get. I think it would be hilarious to sit at a stop light next to a ricer and make fake BOV noises in a soccer mom mobile.