wae said:I did just get the call that they're finished with it, though. So I'm going to go pick it up and see about getting all the paperwork submitted for the settlement tonight.
wae said:I did just get the call that they're finished with it, though. So I'm going to go pick it up and see about getting all the paperwork submitted for the settlement tonight.
Woohoo!
Looks like something got in there for sure.
Check Engine light is still on, but it's not in limp mode. The iCarsoft MBII doesn't seem to know how to talk to it so I need to get Xentry hooked up and see if it can tell me what's up. I assume it's still the O2 heater problem and I need to run a new wire from the connector on the computer.
Congrats on getting it back and not limping!
So they gave it back with the money light still glowing?
In reply to OHSCrifle :
Yeah, I was a bit surprised about that to be honest. Even after updating the iCarsoft MBII, it still doesn't know how to talk to the new computer, though, so I'm not entirely sure what's up. When I ask it to run a regular OBDII scan, it gives me an O2 code, which I expect, but it also seems to think there are some intake manifold runner codes, which is really weird. If I have time today, I'm going to drag out my wife's laptop that I installed Xentry/DAS on and see if that can tell me what's up.
Would it be paranoid for me to wonder if the computer updates were partially to require an updated version of the diagnostic software?
Me Too!
What a slog. Dealership had it for 3 weeks, so we didn't get to drive it to an RV get together, nor the 24HL race at NCM last weekend. But they did get it done by the cutoff date. We picked it up yesterday, drove it ~60 miles home on all types of roads. Ran stronger than before (yay), no codes or MIL (yay), same not so great 23 MPG (boo).
They also did the brake booster recall, which consists of eyeballing the booster to confirm there are no rust holes in it.
In reply to FJ40Jim :
Awesome! Now we just have to hope that the submitted paperwork isn't monkeyed up somehow!
In reply to wae :
So it's back but still needs work? And work that you're not sure how/what to do?
I finally had time to get my epically slow shop laptop working with DAS and the OpenPort so I could pull codes.
14E300: this one I know about. It's the O2 heater circuit fault. I'm guessing that since (I think) they replaced the CDI control unit, it must be the wire somewhere in the harness. I was going to jump from connector to connector to see if the problem goes away.
121500: That's a new one. Component M55 (intake port shutoff actuator motor) has Short circuit to ground. I did not have that code after I put everything together with the new M55 motor. Could be something else in the harness, could be the motor. What I don't know is what the extended warranty will do in that case. I suspect they would test the wiring and if they determine that the motor is fine, it's the wiring harness, they're going to charge me for the diag and want eleventy-billion dollars to fix the harness.
I'm thinking my best option would be to go ahead and get the O2 sensor wiring squared away and while I'm at it, check the wiring for the M55.
Yes, your diagnostic/repair strategy is sound.
On the M55, consider doing the "unplug motor & jump resistor across pins" mod, to see if MIL goes away. If it goes away, then problem is likely motor. If removing the motor doesn't help, then problem is between ECU & motor. The reason the motor gets hot, melts & shorts out is trying to move the sludged intake flaps. Intake manifolds & flappers were authorized to be replaced 'as needed' during AEM, and are covered under the new warranty.
Can you remind me again what DAS and openport do? I currently have an ancient (last updated ~2009?) OTC monitor code reader, that actually still worked on this 2010 vehicle before the AEM update. Also have a current VCDS running on shop laptop, which is very powerful on VAG gruppe autos, but just basic OBD2 on everyone else. If I'm gonna keep this thing for a few years of new warranty coverage, then a better diagnostic tool is needed.
In reply to FJ40Jim :
I'll have to get a camera down there to check the swirl motor, but I know the intake manifolds are new and it looks like they were supposed to replace the M55:
While I was pretty sure that I didn't have that problem before they touched it, I was thinking a little more about it and I seem to recall that at least once after I put it back together I think I saw that code pop up. I cleared it and it stayed away, but if there's a bad wire in there somewhere I could see where that might come and go.
The OpenPort 2.0 is an SAE J2534 pass-through device that DAS can use to communicate with the various Mercedes computers. USB on one end and OBDII on the other. I think DAS stands for "diagnostic assistance software" and it's the Mercedes software that's used to perform diagnostics and set adaptations.
...hmm, looks like I can get a whole wiring harness for $300 or so. Maybe that would be the "easy button" since I have to pull the turbo off to replace the cartridge anyway.
I pulled all the wiring diagram and such out of WIS, but I haven't started troubleshooting yet.
I did, however, score a Ford trailer brake controller pigtail and a Valley Industries Odyssey brake controller for $20. I've got it all installed in der Scheißwagen and when I go to pick up the trailer tonight, I'll see if I did it right. Theoretically, I should be able to use DAS to change the rear SAM to recognize that the trailer has LEDs so I don't get the light warnings on the dash.
FWIW, that Bluetec that is hopefully now out of my hair would set all SORTS of circuit faults any time I had anything apart.
I mean, it COULD be crispy wiring, but intermittently? And open circuits, not shorts to ground or shorts to other circuits? Unlikely. What I did to to ex-or-cize the dee-mon-s was healthy application of Stabilant on every terminal in every connector I touched. One drop per terminal.
Apparently Mercedes wiring harnesses are good for only one or two connections, after that all bets are off.
Stabilant is expensive. Like $130 for a one ounce bottle, or something. But it is magic. It is a connection enhancer up to an actual small gap. But in larger gaps it is actually a dielectric.
In reply to wae :
Hey, that's interesting. I too installed a new ford harness w/ MB connector spliced on, connected to US-made Curt brake controller. Unfortunately, it doesn't work. The brake light input signal is not a 0v/12v binary signal. The vehicle is equipped with the factory trailer package and the trailer compatible rear SAM. I have done no further investigation at this point. Interested to see if the DAS will assist in making it operable.
Some MB forum posts said LED trailer lights were not operable until the dealer re-coded some function in the SAM. My LED trailers did not operate until a stupid resistor plug was installed at the 7pin connector. It would be nice to not have to use the LED plug.
wae said:I pulled all the wiring diagram and such out of WIS, but I haven't started troubleshooting yet.
I did, however, score a Ford trailer brake controller pigtail and a Valley Industries Odyssey brake controller for $20. I've got it all installed in der Scheißwagen and when I go to pick up the trailer tonight, I'll see if I did it right. Theoretically, I should be able to use DAS to change the rear SAM to recognize that the trailer has LEDs so I don't get the light warnings on the dash.
Vediamo would probably be easier to use than DAS. I had issues with DAS selecting incorrect cbf files when I was coding my manual swap. It's also possible that the coding will be in the central gateway, not the SAM.
What is this:
I hadn't noticed this link before on the MB bluetec update page. It appears to be more money from MB themselves? It doesn't specify any amount and has a different deadline date than the class action fund from bluetecsettlement.
Enquiring minds want to know!
iammclovin804 said:wae said:I pulled all the wiring diagram and such out of WIS, but I haven't started troubleshooting yet.
I did, however, score a Ford trailer brake controller pigtail and a Valley Industries Odyssey brake controller for $20. I've got it all installed in der Scheißwagen and when I go to pick up the trailer tonight, I'll see if I did it right. Theoretically, I should be able to use DAS to change the rear SAM to recognize that the trailer has LEDs so I don't get the light warnings on the dash.
Vediamo would probably be easier to use than DAS. I had issues with DAS selecting incorrect cbf files when I was coding my manual swap. It's also possible that the coding will be in the central gateway, not the SAM.
I can definitely say that there's nothing in DAS that seems to have anything to do with the trailer lights. I found routines to turn the lights on and off on command, but the control unit adaptations didn't have anything about trailer lights listed. I guess I just need to put on my big boy pants and learn how to use Vediamo.
FJ40Jim said:What is this:
I hadn't noticed this link before on the MB bluetec update page. It appears to be more money from MB themselves? It doesn't specify any amount and has a different deadline date than the class action fund from bluetecsettlement.
Enquiring minds want to know!
Oh, that is definitely something new.... It does say that "VINs that have already submitted a claim for payment in a BlueTEC Diesel Matter are not eligible." If I may muse wildly about that, I know that there was a requirement in the consent decree that a certain percentage of the fleet had to have the AEM performed. I wonder if they didn't have enough somehow and they're using this to get any stragglers? They also don't mention how much they're paying out. Very odd.
FJ40Jim said:In reply to wae :
Hey, that's interesting. I too installed a new ford harness w/ MB connector spliced on, connected to US-made Curt brake controller. Unfortunately, it doesn't work. The brake light input signal is not a 0v/12v binary signal. The vehicle is equipped with the factory trailer package and the trailer compatible rear SAM. I have done no further investigation at this point. Interested to see if the DAS will assist in making it operable.
Some MB forum posts said LED trailer lights were not operable until the dealer re-coded some function in the SAM. My LED trailers did not operate until a stupid resistor plug was installed at the 7pin connector. It would be nice to not have to use the LED plug.
I, too, have the factory tow package installed. While I didn't test the voltage, it sure seems like it's a on/off +12v signal. I looked up the wiring diagram for the trailer brake connector in WIS and (for mine at least) the X58/28 wires are:
I hooked it all up to my Ford connector and it didn't work. The controller had power and I could manually activate the brakes, but pressing the brake didn't activate it. I can't prove any of this, but here's how I think it works based on the two hours I spent trying to troubleshoot things:
I believe that the car gives constant ground to pin 1 and constant +12V (rear fuse 70?) to pin 4 on the 7-way receptacle at all times. It also appears to send some level of voltage down pin 3 which isn't enough to illuminate incandescent lights, but will dimly light LEDs. When you tap the brakes, it looks for resistance on pins 5 and/or 6 and if it doesn't get the kind of resistance on those pins that an incandescent bulb would generate, it assumes that there is no trailer attached and quits. If, however, it does get resistance on at least one of those, it will trigger "towing mode" for the truck. This means it will now send signal down pin 3 on the X58/28 to the brake controller from the rear SAM, the blind spot detection system is disabled, rear DISTRONIC is disabled, and I can't prove it, but I think it changes transmission mapping and AIRMATIC settings. It will also continue to monitor those circuits and if resistance drops it will complain about a bad light bulb. I assume that it has to drop to the point of assuming that there is no bulb on the circuit as opposed to just dropping from the initial level. That is to say, I don't think it will tell you if you lose *a* bulb, but only if you lose all bulbs.
If your ML doesn't think that there's a trailer attached - and it could be the resistor plugs maybe? - then it will not send voltage from the SAM to the brake controller. I've tried a couple different ones - the afore-mentioned Voyager unit from 2005 as well as a newer Pod unit - and the both work just fine as long as the trailer brake lights are incandescents.
wae said:iammclovin804 said:wae said:I pulled all the wiring diagram and such out of WIS, but I haven't started troubleshooting yet.
I did, however, score a Ford trailer brake controller pigtail and a Valley Industries Odyssey brake controller for $20. I've got it all installed in der Scheißwagen and when I go to pick up the trailer tonight, I'll see if I did it right. Theoretically, I should be able to use DAS to change the rear SAM to recognize that the trailer has LEDs so I don't get the light warnings on the dash.
Vediamo would probably be easier to use than DAS. I had issues with DAS selecting incorrect cbf files when I was coding my manual swap. It's also possible that the coding will be in the central gateway, not the SAM.
I can definitely say that there's nothing in DAS that seems to have anything to do with the trailer lights. I found routines to turn the lights on and off on command, but the control unit adaptations didn't have anything about trailer lights listed. I guess I just need to put on my big boy pants and learn how to use Vediamo.
Feel free to shoot me an email if you need help with it. It's a little difficult piecing all the info together from various forum posts.
My ML seems to know the trailer is attached, because the backup sensors that are beeping as the trailer tongue approaches the hitch, are silent once the trailer is connected.
It is my opinion that it should go to a trailer towing mode with different tranny shift map and stability settings, but it does not feel any different to me in that respect. It's as if the truck halfway knows there is a trailer:
It lights the trailer lights and turns off reverse proximity alarm, but doesn't send the brake light signal to the X58/28 plug or change tranny shift maps.
Worst case, it should be possible to jumper the real brake light wire over to the wire going to X58/28 to get a stop light signal that always works.
I have no idea if it's applicable, but the factory trailer controller in my f350 only applies brakes above a certain speed.
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