They aren't valuable on originality, do it the way you want. I'd PDR that thing though, all those little dings would disappear for $500.
They aren't valuable on originality, do it the way you want. I'd PDR that thing though, all those little dings would disappear for $500.
In reply to chandler :
I wish I could find a guy around here to do it for that cheap. PDR seems to be on the high end around here, but it's been years since I looked into that market.
Would be a nice gift to myself.
Same with PDR here. I've gotten several quotes throughout the years and they're always crazy expensive. Cheaper than actual body and paint work, but still more than I had hoped. Although the price does get a lot cheaper when the dings are all on one panel. I'm assuming yours are more spread out, correct?
They're all over the place, and some in weird areas too! I'll have to call around again. They are all easily accessible, and I can reduce the need for labor by removing any needed trim parts on the inside.
I still need to sit down and do a color shift of various colors I'd like.
I used to have PDR guy who was awesome and would charge $25/ding or $100/panel. He actually took all the hail damage out of my M3 (which was extensive), along with taking the headliner out and taking it to/from the interior guys shop, plus had to take my rollbar in/out for $1500.
Sadly he moved to Arizona. I paid $125 to have one ding removed from my R and have been quoted $4-500 to take a ding out on the 911, because, ya know, P car tax and all...
Ouch! That's awful on the Porsche tax.
Stuff like this is the reason why I feel inclined to learn it myself, but limited time, and I feel like the platter hard drive that is my brain is just about full on nonsense.
We talking this wrangler teal? Those boxy 80s Benz lines would look amazing in teal.
In reply to buzzboy :
That's the one!
After calling around and getting some wild quotes, I've decided I'm going to invest in a PDR kit myself. Hell, I'm self-taught on just about everything I know, and I have a whole fleet of vehicles that need some dents worked out. I'll probably use the F350 as a tester to learn on, since it's got the most.
Patience will be key when learning this new skill, but I'll be able to apply it across the garage. I've always wanted to learn, and the German in me has to know how to do everything.
Remembered I had a body work kit, and went ahead and tried my hand to take down those high spots and try to gently work out that low spot by the body line. Maybe the lack of direct sunlight is still masking it, but I was able to make them far less noticeable.
Clutch fork makes an obnoxious squealy noise. Looked fine, but should have replaced it. I still greased the fork itself and the pivot, but guess that wasn't enough.
Live and learn. I can have it out in less than an hour now. Rather annoyed, but this fix is shelved until I finish the exhaust on the big, white Mercedes. I've also not dug into much of my PDR kit yet, delays with making a few Christmas gifts.
To top it all off, my cat passed away in my office mere feet from me at 1AM this morning while I was playing him some music which he loved when I did. After 17 years, I figured the time would come eventually, but in a few years, into his 20s, not like this.
2020 has been a year... two family members, three friends, and now my cat who had been with me since I was 12. Throw on the work stress and it's no wonder this battle with depression isn't going in my favor.
At any rate, new clutch fork is less than $30, and apparently still available, so I'll probably snag 2-3 just to keep as spares.
Moral of the story? If you've got over 100k miles on what appears to be the factory clutch fork, just replace it. Car drives great otherwise, no more RPMs falling off when shifting into neutral thanks to the smoke test allowing me to solve the massive vacuum leak.
I do feel as though wheel bearings are in its near future.
A 4-5 year old fuel pump from the dealer is giving up the ghost, and it seems that I've now got a vacuum leak from the bottom of the idle air control valve, for which replacements haven't been available for quite some time. Throw in that my car is an '85, the US cars used the updated idle air control system introduced in 1986 for all markets. US Market 2.3s from the same year as my euro market car and earlier should have the same valve, but are likely also toast due to age, and early 190s are never in the yards.
Probably going to pull it and see if I can rebuild it and replace whatever seal has given up the ghost.
RockAuto actually has two options available, for just over $200 for either, but they're not OEM brands.
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