I like this. Maybe just ditch the radio and put an amp with a USB or Bluetooth connection behind the dash. Then all you need is a power button and volume knob. Heater controls would be a tougher nut to crack.
I like this. Maybe just ditch the radio and put an amp with a USB or Bluetooth connection behind the dash. Then all you need is a power button and volume knob. Heater controls would be a tougher nut to crack.
As I may have mentioned, there is another $1000 deadline bet on the line. I need to have the car drivable, registered, insured and ready for paint by the first day of summer 2018. As I can really use that $$$ towards the paint, I am planning to win this time.
That means that function over form is going to win the race for now. Wipers, AC and wiring are the big obstacles in the way. Six months goes fast.
Pete
Dusterbd13 said:Usb audio is a good call. The miata knobs and hvac should be able to be hidden in the wood strip.
AFTER I collect my $1000.
Been an expensive day and it is not over yet.
Ordered the universal remote wiper kit as recommenced by Dusterbd13 way back on page 52
Ordered a seat re-upholstery kit from Mr Mike. To prove that wumanz are nuts, when I asked her to pick a color, she came up with this after she had said she was not a fan of orange. I give up. Looks like you guys that like the door-card color are going to get your wish.
Still need to find a supplier of MOMO steering wheels so that I can get that ordered. I am liking the "California" model since it is available in a larger diameter than the "Prototypo". Women who want jewels for their B-days are easy!
Dusterbd13 said:Have you looked into the street rod wipers? I want to say it was atoloc or keep it clean that makes one with a remote mount motor that drives via cable through a 1/2 inch conduit. Ive put a few in. They are an absolute pain in the ass to install, but once done work flawlessly and simply. I think they offer intermittent and 3 speed versions.
Way back on page 52. proving that withing the limited confines of my aging memory, I do listen to what is said around here!
I never did find out what the difference was between this kit at around $300 and the $90 e-bay versions. But I rolled the dice based on your endorsement.
Anyone want to endorse a MOMO steering wheel vendor?
Pete
Youre welcome. Buy the big tub of grease. Also, after all the fabbing is done, pull it apart and clean/grease it all. Im not sure if all the debris that wind up inside are a result of my work habits or the Chinese kids work habits.
Lastly: when you make the flares in the conduit, make damn sure there'sno burrs or sharp edges. It's a mother a couple of years later when it eats through the drive cable and you have to pull the entire dash/interior/hvac/pedals....
The miata dash looks perfect in there. If you can give it the retro vibe + the momo wheel it will really blend the two cars as well as you have done so far.
I like the wood trim..... ;)
Although still not installed, I did a similar thing to my Corolla dash to retro it/make it look from a different time....
Hard part was rebuilding the vent's....
Picked up a E36 M3load of parts yesterday. I really need to take a deep breath and get back to focused on one task. I seemed to have opened war on five fronts at the same time!
To that end, I decided to focus on what kept me up last night. The new front swaybar that came with the V-max suspension kit wanted to occupy the same real-estate as the lower radiator hose. I see this as poor planing on the part of the Volvo corporation.
So, six hours later, I have a solution that looks like it will work. Currently finished welded and paint drying.
On the suspension front, I decided that I am going to use the energy suspension bushings after all since I have them on the shelf. So, rather than a simple coil-over swap that would have taken a few hours, it is a battle to press out the original rubber and replace with the new bushings. Of course, I need to source the fancy silicone grease and it seems that it is not a off the shelf item at any parts supplier. Is there an alternative that does not involve driving across the border to collect the stuff?
Pete
I've heard that sil-glyde is good, but I use Super-Lube 92150 in a grease gun (I put zerks in all of my control arms).
And that Gentlemen, is why I live here! Thanks, i'll grab a jar on the way to work today! And the zerk thing is probably a good idea.
I know you already ordered that hot rod wiper kit, but I noticed an ad link on Hemmings Daily and saw this: compact wiper. It says you can operate two of these from one switch. Kinda neat.
In reply to Ian F :
Saw those mentioned in a you tube video that also showed how to install the one I bought. I think the one I bought is going to work. There are ones that look almost exactly the same that sell for like $99 versus the one I bought that sold for like $250.
I managed to integrate the spindles on the cable driven wipers into the Volvo post, so this should not be too difficult.
In other news, the suspension is going on. Of course, scope creep has to happen and I decided to use the energy suspension bushings that I had on the shelf. Not knowing the actual condition of the original 200k km rubber bushings was giving me an itch. Tip: a u-joint tool is your friend when pushing out the old bushings. Considered a normal shop press, but it was going to be a PITA to get the arms in place. Silicone grease is gross and is on pretty much every surface of my shop now.
I replaced all the suspension bushings in my Miata a few years ago. I used a kit from Flyin' Miata, I think. It was supposedly 20% stiffer than stock and all rubber. I changed them out with a home made hand tool and removing the old ones was harder than putting in the new ones. The old ones looked fine and had over 100K miles on them at the time. I'm still not sure I actually gained anything after doing it all though.
In reply to DeadSkunk :
I am kind of in the same boat. The change to urethane was a last minute reversal. With no way to QC the stock ones and my wallet waving a white flag at the cost of the FM rubber kit, I decided to go with the Energy Suspension kit that was paid for and on the shelf.
I have had the urethanes on the MGB for about 15 years and they have been trouble free, so fingers crossed this works the same. Greased the living bejabbers out of everything when installing.
Pete
You'll need to log in to post.