NICE! That has to feel good to see it all one color
NICE! That has to feel good to see it all one color
In reply to RossD :
Momentum? Yeah, I guess it is. I get distracted by "customer" cars, hung up on stuff that I have to redo ( ie engine compartment) and start to go around in circles looking for a way forward. so yeah, this would be linear motion.
Picking up the spray gun and getting over the fear of spraying stuff is a good feeling. I kind of enjoy the block sanding bit, but the application of chemicals via spray-gun is never going to be something that I look forward to; paint products seem to have more ways of going wrong than right. I have another gallon of high fill to spray before the blocking is done, but I am over the hesitation stage.
Pete
I dunno, but that green epoxy with bright red minilites ......oh i'm sorry i was having one of those 'remains of an ill spent youth ' moments. looking way good!!!!
In reply to 759NRNG :
If the epoxy had been black, I would have been tempted to stop there. The bodywork is pretty straight so I am happy with that.
Pete
Firs round of blocksanding is done. I am pretty happy with the results in that nothing really poped out as crazy high or crazy low spots. You can see where once again a lot of this stuff ends up on the floor.
I think one more round of the featherfill blocked down to 320 and then I will move on to urethane sealer that can be sanded to 500 for paint.
Task now is to get the dust cleaned up and the car wiped down for the next coat of poly.
So close....color this weekend perhaps?!?!???
It has to be a bit gratifying to see it all coming together at this point. Keep it up!
In reply to 759NRNG :
Sorry, going to have to be a bit more patient than that.
While the urethane might go on sooner than the end of Aug date I had in mind, I have yet to even start locking in a painter; not going to do the color myself. I also live in fear of a restoration phenom known as "Paint Jail". I an not asking for this to be done "On the side" or or "When slow" or any of those dodges cause all that does is make sure you never get your car back. The car needs to be ready to go in on a specified date and the pick-up date has to be specified by the painter before I will commit.
The other interesting tidbit is that the BASF rep who hooked me up with the Glassurit products recommends that I let the Urethane sealer coat outgas for at least a few weeks.
Pete
I spent 4 hours in the shop today and nobody would know I did a damn thing if they had not been there.
Sanding never ends....
In reply to NOHOME :
That's why people build rat rods.........
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
Yea. Watching the latter part of this thread I have a new appreciation for the patina fad. I do love a car with really nice paint and body work though.
Real nice work, Pete.
Nothing quite like a wicked straight car. I'd wager that you'll be properly glad that you spent the time to do this.
damen
Going round in my head about whether I want to take my project down to bare metal. thanks for reminding me that I don't.
Keep up the great work!
I have painted a lot of cars along the way, as did my buddy. Mine were generally straight, my buddy's weren't so much. This was mostly because he gave up and shot the finish when he got frustrated and I kept chasing imperfections a few days longer.
Nothing you don't know, but these last few days will make the final paint job.
Keep up the great work.
BirgerBuilder said:Going round in my head about whether I want to take my project down to bare metal. thanks for reminding me that I don't.
Keep up the great work!
You don't have to take it down to bare metal to make it straight. But unless it is already straight, you will spend a lot of time making it so as your sanding board exposes the ripples.
The Molvo was an extreme case when it comes to body ripples. A late model undamaged car would seem like a walk in the park by comparison.
When I get the urge to pick up a spray gun, I stop and go away. When I get back, I can always find something that needs to be addressed before I spray another coat.
Someone who knew what they were doing could do this in 1/4 of the hours I will have in, but that would still be a $hitload of hours if you were paying for it.
Been lazy this week, kids off to live in Korea for the foreseeable future and want to spend time with her. Then I am off to FL for a week for Dad's 90th, so mentally the Molvo is on the back burner.
Pete
Spent a bit of time futzing with the PS door. The fit was "Good" but not great. For whatever reason, the new door-skin had too big of a gap at the top by the a-post. My gut told me that I was not going to be happy with the finished results and there would be no other time to do something about this.
So, while it felt like a step back at first, and I dithered too long before committing and then deciding how to do it, I laid down about 5 passes of weld on the edge of the door to close up the gap. This will get filed down to create a consistent gap.
If you're not happy about it in the middle of the process, you won't be happy with it at the end... when it's too late.
In reply to NOHOME :
How I wish the gaps on the Healey were too big...
Awesome work, love seeing this come together!
In reply to RossD :
It is why this step can take forever. And the better you make one area, the more compelled you feel to make the rest of the car meet the standard...that keeps getting higher.
Believe it or not, I did not set out to do a show-car. This was meant to be an exercise in "Can I actually pull this off?" and if so I will be happy if the end result is a driver.
There is a voice in the back of my head that is telling me that I am spending a lot of time and money on guilding this Lily while not having answered the original question. I could end up with a pretty piece of junk.
Pete
Junk !?!?!!!! Far from it...... object 'dart is more like it.
759NRNG said:Junk !?!?!!!! Far from it...... object 'dart is more like it.
Got one of those already!
Good example of grabbing shop time when you can een if it is not much.
Was home for lunch so gave the new door edge a quick grindy-grindy with the flap-wheel. Yeah, this can work. Will finish the gap tonight.
You can just make out from the weld edge where the old gap was.
BRG ....Blue whatever..your call..as always...either of these...are suitable for purchase..as for now or for when everr!!!!
I did the exact same thing on the doors of my TR6 to make them somewhat less horrible. It's details like this that will make the car much nicer later, and that's important. I tend to see the flaws in my work and appreciate the hours of extra labor that went into making it better. So keep up the good work.
Good two beer night in the shop.
Got the one previously mentioned door gap filed to fit
Then I decided that the way the fender and the door met at the beltline was not quite right and did a bit of the same stuff
And just because I figured there should be a "before/after" I decided that this gap that was ok, was no longer ok.
After
Had the gaps been too tight, it would have been pretty much the same process only easier; just grind out the edge until you have your gap. Then run a weld bead along the edge of the doorskin that you just ground through. Finish with a flapwheel and you are good.
Pete
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