TLDR version: car is very well prepped for ESP but the paint sucks & AC doesn't work. Rebuild the diff, buy some A7s and you have a serious contender. $7000 OBO.
Full version:
The time has come to sell my 1999 Camaro Z28. Hardtop, LS1, 6-speed manual, low-option car. This car is silly fun to drive, but I have too many cars, I've lost a bit of the passion for racing and I just don't drive it any more.
I bought this car in 2009 and autocrossed it seriously for a number of years. Ran several national tours in it and won my class at two of them, Dixie and Atlanta in 2011 (admittedly, without top-talent opposition). This car is very well prepped, though since I haven't run the last few years, there may be some new rules to take advantage of.
This car would also be an excellent base for a CAM-C build.
I wouldn't hesitate to drive this car anywhere. I drove it 6 hours each way to/from autocrosses. It was comfortable and got 25 mpg on the highway, but bring something capable of taking all the spares with you. You can fit one set of wheels/tires inside the car if you don't have a passenger.
The good
Stats:
- 343 hp, 354 lb-ft on a Dynojet
- 3,240 pounds with race wheels and low fuel
- 87,599 miles
- Hardtop!
Mods
Suspension/brakes:
- Koni shocks
- Strano springs
- Fays2 watts link
- UMI torque arm
- 35 mm front sway bar
- 22mm Hellwig rear sway bar
- Strano offset front UCA bushings
- 1LE rear control arm bushings
- All other bushings & ball joints replaced at time of engine rebuild
- Subframe connectors
- Hawk HP+ front/HPS rear pads
- Braided stainless brake lines
- Street wheels/tires: 17x9 front/17x11 rear Grand sport replicas with 275/40 Riken front/315/35 Sumitomo rear
- Race wheels/tires set 1: 17x11 Grand sport replicas w/315/35 Hoosier A6s
- Race wheels/tires set 2: 17x11 CCW Classics w/315/35 Hoosier A6s
- Appropriate aluminum spacers to use with the wheels
- ARP extended wheel studs
Engine/exhaust/drivetrain:
- Engine rebuilt at ~84k miles following main bearing failure. New crank, rods, valve springs, seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.
- SLP air box
- Smooth bellow
- Ported throttle body
- LS6 intake manifold
- QTP longtube headers
- High-flow cats
- Custom exhaust w/Hooker muffler
- Custom tune
- Improved Racing trapdoor oil pan baffle
- SLP high-volume oil pump
- Turn one power steering pulley (lighter than stock, lets you remove the pump without removing the pulley first)
- ASP underdrive crank pulley (the lightest one available)
- Ram twin-disc clutch and aluminum flywheel (very easy to drive on the street)
- Short shifter of some sort, can't remember
- MSD coils
- Aluminum coil brackets (for weight savings)
- Will include a now very rusty LS7 flywheel & clutch. Could probably blast it & bring it back, but I'm not factoring these parts into the price of the car at all.
Interior:
- Sparco Evo 2 (now called Evo US) driver's seat. Cover is torn, but new-in-bag replacement will come with car. I wear size 38 pants and fit, but size 40 might not.
- Kirkey passenger seat
- Racecraft seat mounts
- Factory seats will come with car
- JVC CD player
- Auto Meter oil pressure gauge in A-pillar mount
Exterior:
- Badges deleted
- Door rub strips deleted
- Foglights deleted
- Rear fenders rolled for tire clearance
Other:
- Sub 2-pound lithium ion battery (starts car well, but I keep it on a tender when not in use)
- Cruise control/traction control delete for weight savings (parts will come with car)
The bad:
- AC doesn't work. Not sure why, as it should. Didn't disconnect anything when I rebuilt the engine.
- Paint is pretty bad.
- Eaton diff is worn out. Auburn Racer diff will come with the car. Also worn, but can be rebuilt through Auburn's D-Rex program.
- Dash top is cracked badly
- Factory oil pressure gauge doesn't work. I'm sure it's the sensor, but with the aftermarket gauge, fixing it hasn't been a priority.
- Car is low. The exhaust sometimes scrapes in parking garages and on speedbumps.
- Ride quality is a bit unforgiving in town
Pictures: by design, these are showing the car in the worst possible state. I don't want anyone getting here and claiming I misrepresented the car's appearance. Obviously I could take pics in better light, and maybe even wash it, but the paint is what it is.
More pics available on request. Below is an older pic of the car that I'm including only to show the CCW wheels. The car does NOT look this good anymore.
I'm asking $7000 for the car and all three sets of wheels. The CCWs by themselves are probably worth $1250-$1500. I'll be the first to admit the paint makes the car look much worse than it really is, but if you buy this car, it's because you're because you're looking or a race-ready car, not a concours winner.
That said, if you think I'm wrong, make me an offer. I'd prefer to sell it all at once, but if you don't want the race wheels, let me know and we can try to work something out. Not really looking for trades, but might consider an Impreza/WRX wagon or maybe a 4WD Toyota truck.
